Mouglie's Engine Rebuild
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Iowa
i found a block for $100... my car is a 93 and i know this is known as the long nose crank...
my question is, are the blocks the same just different crank? Is there a way of telling a short nose from a long nose engine from seeing the block by itself (no crank pulley nor crank)
my question is, are the blocks the same just different crank? Is there a way of telling a short nose from a long nose engine from seeing the block by itself (no crank pulley nor crank)
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i found a block for $100... my car is a 93 and i know this is known as the long nose crank...
my question is, are the blocks the same just different crank? Is there a way of telling a short nose from a long nose engine from seeing the block by itself (no crank pulley nor crank)
my question is, are the blocks the same just different crank? Is there a way of telling a short nose from a long nose engine from seeing the block by itself (no crank pulley nor crank)
"If your Miata is a 1990 or 1991 with VIN 209446 or less, you have a crankshaft with a smaller diameter nose."
Also, I'm 99% sure everything you got for your original 1.6 should work fine with any other 1.6, short nose crank or not. IIRC the only difference between them are specific to the crankshaft and its components. I see the ATI damper pulley for example does not work with the SNC cars. But things such as the rods, pistons, valves, should be the same.
Check the vin and ask FM. I'm sure they could clarify everything for you.
Vash-
Last edited by Vashthestampede; Jun 5, 2008 at 02:03 AM.
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The blocks are identical between the short and long nose crank. The only differences are the nose of the crank and the pullys. You should take it all to the machine shop and have them clean and polish it all up, measure everything, and tell you what bearings to use.
Make sure you are extremely careful with the bearing surfaces of the crank. Don't let anything touch or scratch it in any way.
BTW, I never got a PM?
Make sure you are extremely careful with the bearing surfaces of the crank. Don't let anything touch or scratch it in any way.
BTW, I never got a PM?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 338
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From: Iowa
update
wow its been a while since i last updated this thread. i wanted to start a new thread so i could start fresh but lets just skip all the above and move on...lol...
here is some damage on the main cap cause by the thrust washer failure...
i picked up a new (old) 93 1.6 block (on the left)
took it to the machine shop and got it bored for $140
here is some damage on the main cap cause by the thrust washer failure...
i picked up a new (old) 93 1.6 block (on the left)
took it to the machine shop and got it bored for $140
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Newb
Joined: Aug 2008
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Don't give up - or listen to the jerks.
You should be able to find a short block for a reasonable amount of money.
try searching on car-parts.com to find parts recyclers near you.
I'm taking a 9 hour round trip drive to pick up some seats and my 1.8. Don't be afraid to go for a drive to get your block.
That said, building a motor starts with the machinist and ends with you.
1) Have the machine shop do the head work. It'll save you some major pain.
2)Buy a quality torque wrench. I'm fond of the clicker style these days.
3)Buy a good engine build manual - or buy two and compare the specs! Sometimes they contain omissions or errors.
4)Read through the build process and picture the whole thing in your head before you try.
5)Take your time building it. Don't build it when you're tired!
Good luck!
I'm not impressed by the jerks on the board who waste posts belittling people. It looks like you'll have a pretty impressive dash if you're any good at finishing fiberglass work!
One other thing: You should probably find yourself a decent 1.6 long block and drop it in there to run while you build the new engine up! That way you'll keep from rushing the new engine and if you screw up your turbo install, you'll only risk an old engine.
try searching on car-parts.com to find parts recyclers near you.
I'm taking a 9 hour round trip drive to pick up some seats and my 1.8. Don't be afraid to go for a drive to get your block.
That said, building a motor starts with the machinist and ends with you.
1) Have the machine shop do the head work. It'll save you some major pain.
2)Buy a quality torque wrench. I'm fond of the clicker style these days.
3)Buy a good engine build manual - or buy two and compare the specs! Sometimes they contain omissions or errors.
4)Read through the build process and picture the whole thing in your head before you try.
5)Take your time building it. Don't build it when you're tired!
Good luck!
I'm not impressed by the jerks on the board who waste posts belittling people. It looks like you'll have a pretty impressive dash if you're any good at finishing fiberglass work!
One other thing: You should probably find yourself a decent 1.6 long block and drop it in there to run while you build the new engine up! That way you'll keep from rushing the new engine and if you screw up your turbo install, you'll only risk an old engine.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 338
Total Cats: 0
From: Iowa
That said, building a motor starts with the machinist and ends with you.
1) Have the machine shop do the head work. It'll save you some major pain.
2)Buy a quality torque wrench. I'm fond of the clicker style these days.
3)Buy a good engine build manual - or buy two and compare the specs! Sometimes they contain omissions or errors.
4)Read through the build process and picture the whole thing in your head before you try.
5)Take your time building it. Don't build it when you're tired!
Good luck!
1) Have the machine shop do the head work. It'll save you some major pain.
2)Buy a quality torque wrench. I'm fond of the clicker style these days.
3)Buy a good engine build manual - or buy two and compare the specs! Sometimes they contain omissions or errors.
4)Read through the build process and picture the whole thing in your head before you try.
5)Take your time building it. Don't build it when you're tired!
Good luck!
of what i've done...
Once again thanks for your post.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 338
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From: Iowa
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