Moving that coolant pipe
 

Hey guys,
I'm learning how to weld while I'm at college and I've been dreaming about fabbing up a sweet low-mount unequal length header that's shifted forward a bit for downpipe flow (and that sweet exhaust note). I took a look under the hood and it's pretty tight between the steering shaft, firewall and coolant tube. Does anyone move the coolant pipe on the front/right of the block to get extra room for the turbo? I'm about to go practice TIG but I can take a pic of what I mean in a bit.

Begi makes a piece that faces inlet to the water pump forward instead of backwards. I will try to snap a picture of it a bit later today. Should be pretty easy to copy.

Yeah the begi coolant neck goes out between the power steering pump/ ac compressor and block.. Then it goes down close to the sway bar where it uses metal tube because of the tight fit.

Pics when I get home.

Weld the hole. Flip it around and tap the other end for turbo coolant return.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446412283 there are a few more pictures in my build thread.

Put a T in the lower rad hose and send the heater outlet back to it.

If you can weld its free.

Thanks guys. I couldn't find the front tube on Begi's site, only that slick reroute spacer for the rear. I wonder what he does with the heater core return.

I can't really tell where your heater return hose is in your pic either, aidandj. It's pretty busy down there.

Here's a shot down the side of the engine, really shows how cramped it is in there
Attachment 232615

Turns out aliens landed in the shop while I was there
Attachment 232616

Do some more searching. I have a lot of pictures of it in my build thread. Curly did it too.

Here is a video of how I ran mine.

[Url]
Fuck the mobile site

Thanks, found it.
Here's my header design if you were wondering. I'll see if I can draw it in CAD
Attachment 232614

Looks unnecessarily complicated. I prefer the short runner low-mounts. Good spool, good flow.

Aidandj's pics. Tell me why I should do this beyond removing the heater core return line, which I don't see as totally necessary unless there's no heater core in use.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446419054


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446419054

I did it to fit my turbo. And just make things easier down there.

@hi_im_sean did a much ballerer version.

You still have a heater core? If so, where does the return dump back into the system?

Look at my video again. It goes into a T in the lower rad hose.

OK thanks. Will look at it for a first time haha

Edit: Obv after watching, thanks!

I have begi neck and it reroutes the water from the heater core into the upper radiator hose.

I am unsure but have been told it's a semi effective reroute option especially with stock vvt head gasket.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446422407

Neck is hard to see.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446422520

^dont do that.

Why? It's the way the car came with 1.6 from begi.
Seems to work fine and my research on here seemed to indicate it was fine.

Another option.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446430950

It fucks with the car warming up. There is a reason the coolant that bypasses the thermostat goes straight to the motor.

OK thanks. In texas where it rarely gets below freezing when I drive the car it is not a problem but I appreciate the feedback.

People only do this if they never want the engine to reach operation temps.

:noob:

I run the begi piece....water comes out of heater core and goes into long pipe tucked in fender. Eventually tees off with the water inlet rad hose.

Besides a rather complicated looking inlet hose with a few bends, it's a very clean install.

Pretty. Looks like a lot of material is hogged out.

Maybe one day I'll redesign mine lol.

Its a custom piece. No material hogged out.

Yes, I'm fully aware that is a custom piece.

So you're telling me that a solid piece of aluminum was already shaped like that? Unless that part is casted/forged, I was assuming it was machined out.

Heater core flow bypasses the thermostat entirely, which results in long warmup times and more cold engine wear as a result. It has nothing to do with living in Texas or other warm climates. The way BEGi does that reroute is simply wrong.

^yeah that's what I meant. But I was too lazy to explain.

I'm glad you like it.

It was indeed a billet piece that took a few evenings to carve out. There just wasn't a nice option out there. The tube portion is a reasonably priced off the shelf part from CSR.

Yeah, mine isn't as nice either, I tried to simplify it has much as possible to cut down on cost lol. I'm also using the CSR tube thingy.

I'll need at least 20 45*elbows, but I really like the little runners and the double helix.
Am I just going to have to wait until I have the turbo in hand to figure out how to make it all fit in there? It would be nice if this was high enough to not need the whole relocation in the first place

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446601663

Why don't you just wait? Unless you have hard measurements on all your constraints?

yeaaaa I should just wait. It's not like my welding is up to par yet. I've seen dog turds smoother than my beads.
The measurements I've used are based on schedule 10 long radius bends. I did mess up and the radius of the helix portions though. They are the same radius as if you made a circle with the elbows, but if you stretch it out the length of the helix, the radius shrinks in. That's a fun bit of math I'll have to figure out.
I thought I'd ask about manifold design since this IS the DIY forum. I guess I have lots of time to figure out turbo placement and collector design

Here's how I moved the heater core pipe. Flipped and welded the mixing manifold, added a -10 male 90* fitting. Attached a pushlock -10 to that and ran a hose up to the hard pipe. The hard pipe I welded up from 2 of the oem lines that normally run under the manifold. On the other end I also did a -10 fitting to pushlock, but I had converted the heater core to AN fittings as well after fighting with 3 different units and it still leaking. The little -6 line was for the turbo return fitting.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446660138


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446660138

Any reason you are making the manifold so complex? It will make it harder to fab, heavier, and more likely to crack.

Look at how simple barons or my manifold is, and you get it down low and a really good flowing downpipe.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...-plates-85529/

im looking into possibly producing these in the future

Do I have a reason? Not exactly. I've always been a fan of race pipes, and while this isn't actually as optimal as other designs, it sure looks that way. Call me crazy, but it's just too cool not to do. My philosophy with this car is that it's about fun, not being optimal (Like why the BRZ comes with the same tires as the Prius). Plus, it's refreshing to actually use some of this math I've spent years learning.