my 1600 gt2876r setup
 

few picks of my 1600 built engine running gt2876r and hydra ems
all work done by myself

the manifold
Attachment 209598

5bolt to v-band adaptor
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turbo suport
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Attachment 209601

Attachment 209602

the down pipe
Attachment 209603

Attachment 209604

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centre section
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the engine bay
Attachment 209609

that compressor housing looks huge compared to the turbine. Interesting heim joint mount...hopefully it works out.

What strut bar is that?

love those heater hoses!

I like the ideas but I have a few opinions. 1) The hiem joint support is a good step but I think you are in trouble mounting it to the valve cover bolts. They are not made to withstand the stress an I can almost guarantee you they will break. I would fab a bracket similar that uses the engine lift mounting points. The same bolts that you would mount a hotside supercharger to. 2) Those pie cuts on the downpipe are going to kill your flow because they are too large so that you can get your radius. What I would recommend is you buy a small radius "donut" and cut the same shape out of it to replace you pie cut section. Donuts will provide you with the smallest possible smooth radius that you need.

Otherwise, looks really good. I take it you used an ebay 1.8 top mount mani and then custom welded it to a 1.6 flange?

nice

Actually, after looking at the last pic again. Cut the current heim joint support out of the equation. Modify your front suspension bar (forget the normal term) so that a heim joint mounts to it.

its threads like this that make me appreciate BEGi's welding sweatshop.

Are you sure you need that much bracing?

I mean, almost everywhere I look for turbo manifold there is no bracing at all. It seems only here where people has "bracing madness".

nice to see another huge compressor taking over a miata.

yeah I gotta say, that downpipe is nice except where you turn the gas in sharp corners. You can get 3" small radius (or donuts as neo suggests) and at the VERY least, pie-wedge the bend instead of straight pieces.

otherwise, pretty. though I'm curious how many boost spikes you get with an internal wg :D

I'm pretty sure thats a modified ebay manifold, which would explain the extravagant bracing. The OP is just being precautions so that he never has to removed it to fix a crack.

why not brace the turbo from the motor mount?

Also a good idea.

looks beautiful.. my one problem has already been mentioned: that downpipe needs to be way smoother

the problem is the V-mount adapter that sticks out 10" off the turbo.

+1 ditch that vband adapter or get a v-band turbine housing if they make one for a t2

not that i have a vast knowledge of exhaust mani's or anything but i just finished reading the exhaust manifold section in Corky's 'maximum boost' and i couldn't help but notice that --

your mani' doesn't have any kind of seperation on the flange between each port in order to compensate for heat expansion. otherwise the flange is just going to bend into a fatty arc.

please correct me if im wrong

$$$$ vs time spent. I SAY AWSOME DUDE! 3inch. Yea the bends may hurt a little, 3inch that is alot of flow. And it sure beats spending $400. That is something if you wanna change later you can. I can't wait to see a video of it going down the strip. That should be pretty wild in full boost. Bolt it up.

If you decide to change it, pm me, I want it if the price is right. My Diy car needs a bigger dp. :)

Am I the only one that is concerned that his exhaust is mounted to rigidly and has no flex piece?

Too,

the worst of it is to be bolted on the ppf. Should add a flex joint after the dp and let the exhaust hang freely with stock rubber mount

the DP to mid pipe has one swaged joint ( if thats what u mean byvflex piece)....other than that i think its kinda eff'd

flex is lame. i dont run one. exhaust fine for yearrrrrrrrrs.

arrr thx for you comments

the bracings is because the manifold did crack, a few times too.

the downpipe i had on it was a cast one from a 1800 hks kit very tight and ran fine with very little lag

the welds in real life to look at are very near perfect i wouldnt of put it on my car if not and i only started tig welding 2weeks ago

if i was to do it again i would use more segments in the lobster back bend and a donut wasnt available(sp) to me only very slow 90 dairy bends

i fitted the 5bolt to vband adapator because with my original turbo i kept shearing the bolt off in the exhaut housing so as it is ther is no real weight on them bolts now and seems to be ok

the downpipe bolts to the gearbox ther is a flared joint between the dp and centre section that isnt clamped for expansion and the centre section is bolted to the g.box to diff support flexi's make the rest of the exhaust sway about too much and knock at the rear

the turbo suport uses high tensile threaded rod with the rocker cover drilled out and s.steel spacers fitted so they shouldn't snap ther is no pressure on the rocker cover
copied the design from group b rally cars

dending on boost i run anywere between 270bhp and 320 bhp bit of a animal to say the least
just change the spring in the actuator
next is a coolant reroute and nitrous

Got a pic of that down pipe installed? Looks really tight with the heater hoses.
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Where did it crack?

around the weld to the flange and it wasnt but welded i die grinder'd the flang out so that the pipe fit inside it and warmed it and tapped it out to suite welded it round the outside and then around the inside hence why each one has a little plate on

good job, looks great maybe just a little more blue hoses would do. lol just kidding nice setup.

You might remove some of the rear shelf there so you can straighten out the downpipe a bit.