My balls have finally dropped (Philip didnt do this one)
 

After thinking it over and over.. and waiting for more parts to come.. I decided i'm just going to start installing shit and get it running then install the parts left over later ( Clutch, Flywheel, Motor mounts)..

Heres the pics.

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Still got alot of work ahead of me :D

coo, what is your gauge?

um isn't your CHRA kinda upside down? I can't imagine your oil feed line works too well as a oil drain.

Oil drain is on the bottom. The feed is on top. And the turbo/manifold sits too high to clock the turbo any other direction

you should clock the chra housing downward....the part with the two bolts should face downward

it does look like the oil return on top....is that not 1/2" threading?

I hate to beat a dead pack mule, but I gotta agree that if that black hose is in fact your drain, it definitely would not be at its most efficient at the angle it is in the picture.

those are the two water hoses silly....im speaking just of the aluminum flange....looks too large to be an inlet.

That aluminum thing needs to be no more than 15* off from straight down... so the complete opposite of how you have it. You can clock the center section independently of the comp and turbine housings so it doesn't matter how hight the turbo sits.

how long before philip bans you for misspelling his name...

good catch...i just saved a brutha :rofl:

Pakman, dude, I've been wrong before... but I'm pretty sure that's the oil DRAIN you're showing. I think the only Garrett turbo's that need an oil inlet adapter are certain T3 models. If you go to the ATP website, they don't even sell a T25 oil inlet adapter... only T3. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

What does the fitting on the direct opposite side of the turbo look like. If it's just a single small hole with an male inverted flare thread, then that's your inlet.

The pics below are from an .80/.64 SR20det T25. The inlet fitting is 7/64"-24 inverted flare to -4an.

You need to unbolt the 4-bolts that hold the turbine housing to the CHRA and rotate the CHRA until the drain points down. Then you'll need snap-ring pliers to again rotate the compressor housing down.

sam is too helpful.

My bad... you guys are right its the Oil Drain Flange.. How do I clock the exhaust housing?

Awsome. I shall be watching this thread.

unbolt the four bolts on the turbine......

rotate CHRA and compressor....tighten bolts....

remove C-ring on compressor side.....rotate compressor only where you want it...or where the wastegate lines back up.....Replace C-ring....

You need to replace the C-ring?

Sorry I forgot to reply to your post. It's a Faze Boost gauge

Unbolt the four bolts on it out just enough that it's hard to turn and turn it carefully, this way you don't knock the wheel. Rotate the center down (or the turbing housing up/whichever is easier. Then take your snap-ring pliers and spin the compressor housing how you want it again.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...highlight=Sr20


thanks buddy