My balls have finally dropped (Philip didnt do this one) - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 05-15-2007, 03:58 AM   #1
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Default My ***** have finally dropped (Philip didnt do this one)

After thinking it over and over.. and waiting for more parts to come.. I decided i'm just going to start installing **** and get it running then install the parts left over later ( Clutch, Flywheel, Motor mounts)..

Heres the pics.

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Still got alot of work ahead of me
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Old 05-15-2007, 04:18 AM   #2
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coo, what is your gauge?
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Old 05-15-2007, 04:51 AM   #3
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um isn't your CHRA kinda upside down? I can't imagine your oil feed line works too well as a oil drain.
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Old 05-15-2007, 05:10 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX_Eva View Post
um isn't your CHRA kinda upside down? I can't imagine your oil feed line works too well as a oil drain.
Oil drain is on the bottom. The feed is on top. And the turbo/manifold sits too high to clock the turbo any other direction
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Old 05-15-2007, 08:21 AM   #5
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you should clock the chra housing downward....the part with the two bolts should face downward
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Old 05-15-2007, 09:29 AM   #6
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it does look like the oil return on top....is that not 1/2" threading?
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Old 05-15-2007, 10:18 AM   #7
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I hate to beat a dead pack mule, but I gotta agree that if that black hose is in fact your drain, it definitely would not be at its most efficient at the angle it is in the picture.
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Old 05-15-2007, 10:19 AM   #8
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I hate to beat a dead pack mule, but I gotta agree that if that black hose is in fact your drain, it definitely would not be at its most efficient at the angle it is in the picture.
those are the two water hoses silly....im speaking just of the aluminum flange....looks too large to be an inlet.
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:07 AM   #9
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That aluminum thing needs to be no more than 15* off from straight down... so the complete opposite of how you have it. You can clock the center section independently of the comp and turbine housings so it doesn't matter how hight the turbo sits.
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:15 AM   #10
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how long before philip bans you for misspelling his name...
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:18 AM   #11
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how long before philip bans you for misspelling his name...

good catch...i just saved a brutha
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Old 05-15-2007, 12:15 PM   #12
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Pakman, dude, I've been wrong before... but I'm pretty sure that's the oil DRAIN you're showing. I think the only Garrett turbo's that need an oil inlet adapter are certain T3 models. If you go to the ATP website, they don't even sell a T25 oil inlet adapter... only T3. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

What does the fitting on the direct opposite side of the turbo look like. If it's just a single small hole with an male inverted flare thread, then that's your inlet.

The pics below are from an .80/.64 SR20det T25. The inlet fitting is 7/64"-24 inverted flare to -4an.

You need to unbolt the 4-bolts that hold the turbine housing to the CHRA and rotate the CHRA until the drain points down. Then you'll need snap-ring pliers to again rotate the compressor housing down.

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Old 05-15-2007, 12:19 PM   #13
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sam is too helpful.
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:04 PM   #14
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My bad... you guys are right its the Oil Drain Flange.. How do I clock the exhaust housing?
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:06 PM   #15
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Awsome. I shall be watching this thread.
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:10 PM   #16
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unbolt the four bolts on the turbine......

rotate CHRA and compressor....tighten bolts....

remove C-ring on compressor side.....rotate compressor only where you want it...or where the wastegate lines back up.....Replace C-ring....
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
unbolt the four bolts on the turbine......

rotate CHRA and compressor....tighten bolts....

remove C-ring on compressor side.....rotate compressor only where you want it...or where the wastegate lines back up.....Replace C-ring....
You need to replace the C-ring?
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akaryrye View Post
coo, what is your gauge?
Sorry I forgot to reply to your post. It's a Faze Boost gauge
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:24 PM   #19
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Unbolt the four bolts on it out just enough that it's hard to turn and turn it carefully, this way you don't knock the wheel. Rotate the center down (or the turbing housing up/whichever is easier. Then take your snap-ring pliers and spin the compressor housing how you want it again.
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
unbolt the four bolts on the turbine......

rotate CHRA and compressor....tighten bolts....

remove C-ring on compressor side.....rotate compressor only where you want it...or where the wastegate lines back up.....Replace C-ring....
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...highlight=Sr20


thanks buddy
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