My Finished build thread summary
#1
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My Finished build thread summary
Well I fired up the miata this morning for the first time in 3 months! What I got accomplished in this time was as follows: Mazdaspeed comp motor mounts, solid diff mounts, 4.1 Torsen, ACT xtreme 6 puck, new slave and clutch master, hooked up knocksense, new ETD greddy Mani, Begi SSGDP, bolted racing seat to the floor, Ebay Steering wheel, AC/PS delete, Gutted about 100lbs of stuff, wipers, Airbags, heater core, vented the crankcase to the ground instead of catch can, DIY 2.5" intercooler setup, drilled oil pan and -10AN fittings (that leak ) 3" cutout installed at the end of DP,
That's all the stuff I accomplished with success mainly! a few gripes I have are the BEGI SSGDP the rear O2 sensor bung is way to close to the flange, You cant run open DP cause it messes the wideband up, the DP also barely fits with the ETD mani. But that stuff isnt very serious? Also the AN fitting right off the turbo leaks what can I seal the threads with? And the main problems I have are with my MS yes again I know right? Well my laptop got a virus and I lost all the files for easytherm etc. problems with MS are
-TPS only reads 2% to %35 it used to work 0% to 100% before the virus?
-My launch control does not work, It used to before the virus? what settings activate it? I have it wired to the brown factory wire?
-My easytherm is obviously messed up because warmup enrichments never shut off
-and how do you tune the knocksense accurately? make it knock intentionally?
Ill post pictures of everything tommorrow when the Cutout is welded in and little bits and pieces are finished overall I love the 6 puck clutch and solid mounts! Help me out
That's all the stuff I accomplished with success mainly! a few gripes I have are the BEGI SSGDP the rear O2 sensor bung is way to close to the flange, You cant run open DP cause it messes the wideband up, the DP also barely fits with the ETD mani. But that stuff isnt very serious? Also the AN fitting right off the turbo leaks what can I seal the threads with? And the main problems I have are with my MS yes again I know right? Well my laptop got a virus and I lost all the files for easytherm etc. problems with MS are
-TPS only reads 2% to %35 it used to work 0% to 100% before the virus?
-My launch control does not work, It used to before the virus? what settings activate it? I have it wired to the brown factory wire?
-My easytherm is obviously messed up because warmup enrichments never shut off
-and how do you tune the knocksense accurately? make it knock intentionally?
Ill post pictures of everything tommorrow when the Cutout is welded in and little bits and pieces are finished overall I love the 6 puck clutch and solid mounts! Help me out
Last edited by turbobluemiata; 02-27-2009 at 02:12 AM.
#4
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Which AN fitting? The oil drain?
#5
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TPS:
You just need to calibrate the TPS. It takes 30 seconds. Open up Megatune, go to tools---calibrate TPS. Follow the directions.
EASYTHERM:
Double and tripple check what you typed into easytherm. if you added an extra zero or messed something up the easytherm's warmup curve will be wacky. at one point i would have 500% enrichment and it would just die on me because i typed in an extra zero.
Launch Control:
Check to see if the switch is working properly. The launch light should light up on megatune on the bottom of the window every time you press in the clutch. from there you can adjust the settings in Advanced---- launch control. DIY's settings should get you going. Make sure you dont send a 5v signal thru the pin.... itll fry the MS1 chip, ask how i know, lol.
You just need to calibrate the TPS. It takes 30 seconds. Open up Megatune, go to tools---calibrate TPS. Follow the directions.
EASYTHERM:
Double and tripple check what you typed into easytherm. if you added an extra zero or messed something up the easytherm's warmup curve will be wacky. at one point i would have 500% enrichment and it would just die on me because i typed in an extra zero.
Launch Control:
Check to see if the switch is working properly. The launch light should light up on megatune on the bottom of the window every time you press in the clutch. from there you can adjust the settings in Advanced---- launch control. DIY's settings should get you going. Make sure you dont send a 5v signal thru the pin.... itll fry the MS1 chip, ask how i know, lol.
#6
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Normally you want it as far from the turbo as possible (and before the cat) so it is less likely to overheat. That is why it is where it is. Maybe you can fab a short 2 foot extension tube to attach to the DP when you are running open exhaust?
Which AN fitting? The oil drain?
Which AN fitting? The oil drain?
#7
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TPS:
You just need to calibrate the TPS. It takes 30 seconds. Open up Megatune, go to tools---calibrate TPS. Follow the directions.
EASYTHERM:
Double and tripple check what you typed into easytherm. if you added an extra zero or messed something up the easytherm's warmup curve will be wacky. at one point i would have 500% enrichment and it would just die on me because i typed in an extra zero.
Launch Control:
Check to see if the switch is working properly. The launch light should light up on megatune on the bottom of the window every time you press in the clutch. from there you can adjust the settings in Advanced---- launch control. DIY's settings should get you going. Make sure you dont send a 5v signal thru the pin.... itll fry the MS1 chip, ask how i know, lol.
You just need to calibrate the TPS. It takes 30 seconds. Open up Megatune, go to tools---calibrate TPS. Follow the directions.
EASYTHERM:
Double and tripple check what you typed into easytherm. if you added an extra zero or messed something up the easytherm's warmup curve will be wacky. at one point i would have 500% enrichment and it would just die on me because i typed in an extra zero.
Launch Control:
Check to see if the switch is working properly. The launch light should light up on megatune on the bottom of the window every time you press in the clutch. from there you can adjust the settings in Advanced---- launch control. DIY's settings should get you going. Make sure you dont send a 5v signal thru the pin.... itll fry the MS1 chip, ask how i know, lol.
Thats what the TPS does after I calibrate it only 2% to %35?
easytherm- I dont really understand where to get the numbers from
launch control- used to work I think I just need to set MS up to see what pin its on?
#10
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I suggest you make det-cans to calibrate your KS. They get a bad rap, but they work, well. You get to hear exactly what's going on in the cylinders. They're cheap to make, and you get a definite answer on detonation.
If you have no detonation, then set it just a hair clockwise of what lights-up at low rpm. Over 5k rpm is not going to work.
I've considered tuning my car on 91 octane, or making a coctail to take octane just a hair lower than what I plan to run, tune the fuel, spark, and KS on that lower octane...then run the higher octane for added protection.
If you have no detonation, then set it just a hair clockwise of what lights-up at low rpm. Over 5k rpm is not going to work.
I've considered tuning my car on 91 octane, or making a coctail to take octane just a hair lower than what I plan to run, tune the fuel, spark, and KS on that lower octane...then run the higher octane for added protection.
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