My knockoff Greddy-S BOV leaks at idle. - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-24-2006, 10:33 PM   #1
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Default My knockoff Greddy-S BOV leaks at idle.

What the heck is this things problem?

Was I supposed to know this?

Who knows why it leaks? I took it apart, all the seals look good. Design problem? Is it because I bought the knockoff and this is my punishment?
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:44 PM   #2
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That would be correct, thats why you never take a cheap route. lOOk into ebay find a name brand bov, and don't fall for the knock off ****!
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:53 PM   #3
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Seems about right.

I do have a real Greddy-S BOV, I'll switch tomorrow. Just wondering whether that one will leak also? (Is it a recirculating valve only?) If no one knows, we'll all know tomorrow.
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:56 PM   #4
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oh then you'll be ok if u have a real one , just remember to recirculate it into the intake inlet of the turbo to avoid idle droop!
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Old 09-24-2006, 11:07 PM   #5
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Yeah, I'll rotate the top of the valve (180*) so that my vacuum line fits nicely, and find some flexible tubing for the recirc. What to use? I want it to be flexible, but not soft. Don't want it crushing.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:08 AM   #6
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Heater hose does the trick. OR you could put a one way check valve on the BOV if you really want to run VTA.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:47 AM   #7
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Routing it back into the intake is not going to be pretty, but i'll make something work. Need something flexible.

You can see the routing difficulty. It will have to make a quick 90*, then a U, then another 90*, then into the intake. Should be fun.
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:00 AM   #8
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Can you rotate the BOV so it points straight down? That would probably help. You can get a thing that looks like a spring that will allow you to make tight radius turns with hose if you need to make a 90. Or a couple of hose clamps will work to keep the hose from collapsing.
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:03 AM   #9
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both bov's will leak a little at idle....you need to tighten the spring pressure a little.
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyFloyd View Post
both bov's will leak a little at idle....you need to tighten the spring pressure a little.
Weird, that's what I thought too. It didn't help and I cannot figure where it's leaking from. I thought it was the vacuum line to the manifold sucking in air through the bov. ???
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Can you rotate the BOV so it points straight down? That would probably help. You can get a thing that looks like a spring that will allow you to make tight radius turns with hose if you need to make a 90. Or a couple of hose clamps will work to keep the hose from collapsing.
That is what I want to do. But it would take welding a flange 90* from where it is now. You can rotate the top of the valve 6 different directions, but the bottom either faces foward or backward, it only rotates 180*.
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:09 AM   #12
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Hijack:
Where did you get the black tubing for the intake tract?
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:50 AM   #13
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Last I checked, the greddy bov's are normally open while idling. Some people go so far as to filter their opening.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:52 AM   #14
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Can you rotate the pipe that the BOV sits on at all? That's what I meant when I said rotate it down.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicanmiataRacer View Post
That would be correct, thats why you never take a cheap route. lOOk into ebay find a name brand bov, and don't fall for the knock off ****!
The Ebay BOVs *do* work.. as I proved by purchasing both the 20 dollar turboXS type-S knock off ($20) and a bosch BOV ($20). I actually LOVE my ebay one. Its a very simple design, its kind of hard to mess up.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UofACATS View Post
Routing it back into the intake is not going to be pretty, but i'll make something work. Need something flexible.
In all seriousness, I know it sounds a bit ghetto, but copper plumbing fittings are a dream for this sort of thing. They're cheap, have nice smooth bends, and with a stick of Muggy-Weld can be brazed to aluminum.

I just installed my FM BOV last night, using a pair of 1 1/4" 45's and a 1 1/4" coupler.

It's a convenient coincidence that the class of copper pipe commonly sold in hardware stores has a wall thickness of about 1/16". And a pipe has two walls. So a piece of 1 1/4" ID pipe has an OD of 1 3/8", and a coupler or fitting designed to slip over said pipe has an OD of 1.5". Likewise for the smaller sizes.

Just paint it silver and nobody will know.

Last edited by Joe Perez; 09-26-2006 at 01:48 AM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:08 PM   #17
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If you're looking for ideas on how to run your BOV tubing, his is how I ran my recirculated BOV.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:22 PM   #18
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Whats with all the turbo miatas without the coolant reroutes i'm seeing lately?
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:26 PM   #19
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Yeah, not a whole helluva lot of people perform the re-routes. Part of the reason is it's a pain in the butt when the engine's in the car. Another reason is there's so much info. re parts and such, so many ways to accomplish it, that's it's a bit daunting.
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:57 PM   #20
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From everything i've learned about the flow from the original motor usage... I can't imagine even considering running without it on a turbo car.

I guess I'll see how it goes when I get too it.
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