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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-18-2007, 01:04 PM   #1
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Default my turbo'd engine bay pictures.... suck

I lost my camera battery charger so the only pics I can muster are camera phone pics, in low light... these are from monday I think, its a little farther along but basically the same. I have a mock up of my heat shield in place still havent placed my afm yet. need to trim a few hoses and run a few vac lines.



the stealth FMIC, light dusting of krylon semi flat, its basicly invisible with the bumper on. also its hung straight now :P



worst pictures ever.
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Old 01-18-2007, 01:07 PM   #2
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agreed... bad pics. but your a lot farther down the path to boost than I am, so I can't laugh at ya too much.
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Old 01-18-2007, 02:43 PM   #3
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Looking good man, just need to button her up and go to test drive that beast. Then get bitten buy the damn boost bug and not be happy until the car starts falling apart.
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:10 PM   #4
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well kids it started up on the first try after my battery was charged.

My BOV sucks and stays open at idle, but other than that its pretty boss. my exhaust doesnt match the down pipe, its like 2 inches off, so I gotta get that sorted out. I made a boro heatshield mock up and its aiight. soon I gotta mount the stuff in the cabin but its nearly road ready.

oh yeah and I made a new hood prop. it kicks ***. all manner of ***.

a HUGE pic of my engine bay
http://jazz.sdsc.edu/photo/showimg.p...d/100_0375.JPG
and a good pic of my radical hood prop, uses an existing hole I just chopped the old hood prop and moved it.
http://jazz.sdsc.edu/photo/showimg.p...d/100_0370.JPG

anyone know a good non recirc bov? I dont have room to plumb mine back in.
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:41 PM   #5
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My Tial BOV works great and sounds awesome, that's the only one i can vouch for.
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:48 PM   #6
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I'd go with tial if I were to buy a new bov, I have the discontinued Greddy Type-s, I like it nice sound and works great.
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:06 AM   #7
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a HUGE pic of my engine bay
Nice! Sideways MAF affect anything?

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and a good pic of my radical hood prop, uses an existing hole I just chopped the old hood prop and moved it.
Pretty sure I'm copying that
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:11 AM   #8
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anyone know a good non recirc bov? I dont have room to plumb mine back in.
Room for a check valve there?
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:26 AM   #9
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what do you mean check valve? you mean the line coming off the valve cover that have a bolt in it?

the maf is basicly touchin the turbo, I dont have the parts to make the U off the turbo like Ive seen around here, I figure I'll try to get my muffler guy to cut me 2 J's in 2" and I'll sort it out from there but thats next month at the earliest... I get paid once a month.

I also just realized a few things looking at the picture talking to my coworker... I plumbed my pressure switch for the autotune RIGHT in the line with my bov... I just noticed it. it says specificly not to. I'll have to fix that when I get home.

is it ok to -T- off the wastegate line for the bov?

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Old 01-22-2007, 12:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
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I'd go with tial if I were to buy a new bov, I have the discontinued Greddy Type-s, I like it nice sound and works great.

I found a type-s aswell, not to many left around.
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:50 PM   #11
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It is ok to T off your wastegate line for your BOV but it's always nice to have independent lines for each. Any signal line should work, my BOV happens to be close to my TB so my lines are short and independent. I don't think the BOV would disrupt the operation of the WG or vise versa.
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:04 PM   #12
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HKS SQV is what I have and love
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:19 PM   #13
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I'll just have to find somthing that has a dsm flange with it so I dont have to have it welded up... so hks ssq, greddy typeS, and tial... I ran my blitz on my rx7 open to, that prolly would be fine as well. I bet the dsm would be fine if I could adjust it.

I dont think the sideways afm will hurt anything.
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Old 01-23-2007, 09:57 PM   #14
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Room for a check valve there?
does anyone have a picture of what he's talking about? I've read a little and it keeps coming up as the way to trun this stay closed at idle.
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:04 PM   #15
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does anyone have a picture of what he's talking about? I've read a little and it keeps coming up as the way to trun this stay closed at idle.
I'll look for a pic when I get off work. It's a one-way check valve from Lowes/H.D. attached to the end of the BOV with a bit of heater hose for a coupler. Lets the air bypass/blowoff while providing a seal at vaccum.

I think the sideways MAF will be fine also, just curious if you've noticed any weird behavior as a result.
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:41 PM   #16
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Heres a couple threads showing the check valve. I have the brass version, I'll still post the pic if you want to see it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ht=check+valve

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ht=check+valve
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Old 01-24-2007, 02:36 PM   #17
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sideways afm: Ive only idle'd so far, I have to finish up some things around the car and roll another fender, just small stuff but its not quite drivable. idles and revs normal though... I think the door facing down is ok, but I think if I had it on its side facing up it might do some weird things with the door returning to the closed position or somthing.

Im dumb I totally didnt search *here* for check valve...
that check valve sounds like a weird way to "fix" it. but I dont see why it wouldnt work ...

why not a smaller check valve in the signal line? wouldnt that work to? hmm maybe not...
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Old 01-24-2007, 03:53 PM   #18
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If I had it on its side facing up it might do some weird things with the door returning to the closed position or somthing.
Ah, that makes sense.

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why not a smaller check valve in the signal line? wouldnt that work too? hmm maybe not...
The signal might be interrupted/delayed too much? Might work though. When I picked out the one I use there was a collection of different sizes. Available in plastic as well (lighter). It's like 10 bucks or so. Give it a shot.
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VRTSid View Post
the maf is basicly touchin the turbo, I dont have the parts to make the U off the turbo like Ive seen around here, I figure I'll try to get my muffler guy to cut me 2 J's in 2" and I'll sort it out from there but thats next month at the earliest...
Thats sort of what I did with mine. I bought a piece of mandrel-bent exhaust pipe from Summit: 2.5" diameter, 180 degree, 5 inch radius. Then I used the chop saw to remove a wedge-shaped section from the middle, which opened it up to maybe 150 degrees or so. (I didn't measure the angle, just eyeballed it). Then I welded the two pieces back together, and viola. Pictures are somewhere in the DIY area...
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:57 PM   #20
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after seeing this pic, I decided I wanted to try.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...5277Medium.jpg

heres my new stuff as of today, most is temporary until I can make up some hard pipe. I added a check valve to my DSM "BOV" and made mounts for my AFM. now that its in a "permanent" position it'll make hard piping it much easier.

Im going to shorten the intake pipe tomorrow, but I wanted to button it up today, even if it was just for today.


and I added more to my heat shield, Im going to putthe heat shielding stuff on the outside of this form as well. And you can see where I put the crankcase venting... I dont think I did the jbweld properly, it wasnt hard after a few hours, I hope it tightens up over night, or I'll pack it with some more.
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