FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

We are really going to need some photos. You also need to read up on all the faqs. If you don't know what something is, google it.

If you are going to fix this you need to at least have an idea of how turbos work, and more importantly how engines work.

ArtieParty

iTrader: (1)

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

I think we found your problem... not compatible with a turbo miata... sorry.

bobo10150

what isn't compatible? the turbo? or the cheap *** wing lol...

bogly

iTrader: (5)

Here, this should get you started. It will also help so that when you are taking photos of the engine bay, it will make more sense to you.

https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/diy-faq-all-your-answers-one-big-post-10821/

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

Unless you can significantly improve your own ability to identify/describe parts:


Seriously, pics of turbo, wastegate, ECU, Intake tract, engine bay, turbo piping, bypass valve piping, intake manifold, any gauges/dashboard, exhaust, O2 sensor(s), valve cover, vacuum lines, etc. etc.

Make them decent pics too. The following will only serve to frustrate those who are trying to help you:
Blurry Cell Phone Pics
Out of Focus Pics
Postage stamp sized pics
Pics that are 10 times the size of my monitor.

Try to get in-focus pics at 1024x768. Photobucket may automatically resize huge pics for you. Also, if you have windows XP, there is a microsoft powertool that will allow you to resize every picture in a folder instead of doing them one at a time. Post them inline, so we dont have to click every friggin thumbnail to see what you're posting.

Also, a video clip of the car idling and very light revving at idle so that we can try to hear/see the problem.

And bobo, edit your location in your profile to include "Laurens, SC"....it will significantly increase the chance that some merciful soul will help you in person.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

You're probably completely fucked. The majority of the eBay turbo kits out there use crap hardware, are poorly engineered, and have been proven multiple times over to fail very quickly.

I also see no mention of any device for fueling... which is probably your issue. The stock computer has no capability to sense boost, and nothing about the stock fueling system will handle more than about 1psi.

So you're almost certainly not flooding the engine... in fact, you're starving it for fuel. DEFINITELY, DO NOT GET INTO BOOST!

The pictures will tell us more, but it's probably going to be the suggestion of the board that you remove all the turbo components, source a stock exhaust and intake, and revert to NA.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

It sounds like you have no fuel and spark management. If you drive it in boost at all without engine management your engine will probably need replacing within 20 miles. Good luck in your quest for knowledge.

^ Read the post bogly linked above.

1slowna

iTrader: (1)

^^that or sorce all the required components to finish the setup which will prolly include injectors fuel pump and a fpr. I was thinking he could possibly just have a major boost leak like a coupler missing or something which would certainly cause it to flood. But without pictures we are guessing.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

This is the only part of your whole setup worth leaving on the car...


Well, maybe the turbo too if it came from the right ebay vendor, we've had a lot of luck with the new chinachargers...but everything it's attached too is crap.

You said "headers" in place of turbo manifold, so I'm assuming it's a thin-walled turbing thing that probably looks cool, but flows like **** and is prone to crack. If you have something that looks solid (cast), in a log configuration, then that part may be okay as well.

The BIG thing missing from your list is any sort of engine management.

Engine management means being able to modify your fueling and ignition to account for the amount of air you are now forcing into the engine. You generally need to have a richer air to fuel mixture, and less timing advance when running forced induction. The specifics of all of that, as well as methods/parts can be found using the search function.


Then you have no business driving the car...AT ALL.

I'm not being harsh, I'm trying to save your motor. You can very easily mess it up by running stupid lean with stock timing. When you think it's bogging down at 3K rpm, it's more than likely actually starving for fuel. You can't tell this since you don't have an AFR gauge, and you can't determine if this is correlated to boost onset since you probably don't have a boost gauge either. Those two feedbacks are imperative when driving/tuning a turbo car.

bobo10150

mmk. so im thinking im going to sell the miata and break even. I'm sorry last night when i posted this, it was midnight. i don't think pictures with no light would help. i said i would post pictures today eastern time of 5.
also the guy said injectors would not be needed...
as well as a better fuel system...
i hear that some people run eclipse turbos as well. is that true? if so, i got one.

should i convert back to stock till i get a real turbo kit? or should i continue to try and fix.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Convert it back to stock and enjoy the car in stock form. Then read on here for 6 months, and then start thinking about boosting your car.

bobo10150

do you think i could get 4 grand for the shitty turbo and my miata?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

The turbo from your Eclipse will certainly not fit the manifold/DP you've got on the car... the flanges will be completely different.

For a low boost (5-6psi), you won't need new injectors... but you will need at a minimum, a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator. The best one for you application is the BEGi 2025 AFPR... available in the classifieds on this forum all the time.
The AFPR is mounted on the fuel return line to the tank. You hook a vaccum line to it, and as boost pressurizes the line, it moves a diaphram inside the unit to restrict flow of fuel back to the tank... causing the fuel pump to work harder and give more fuel pressure in the fuel feed line to the injectors. Stock fuel pressures are in the 40-50psi range... and a good stock fuel pump can give you 80psi... effectively making your fuel injectors about 40% bigger.

Most people around here will buy an aftermarket Walbro 190lph HP fuel pump that will give 130+psi. You can also buy sightly larger injectors from various Toyota models... 330cc injectors are about the largest the stock ECU has been show to be able to idle effectively.

There is also TIMING to deal with. Your base timing if not using an electronic timing control device is 6*. You can change your base timing with a timing light and a 10mm socket.

You also need to be running 93octane if not already.

But like we said... you're better off reverting to stock, doing homework for a month or so, and buying quality parts.

OH, and a beat-down '94 with a crap turbo system half isntalled is worth about $2500... maybe.
But since we really don't know anything about it... like MILEAGE, trim, condition, interior, or anything... makes it kinda tough to tell.

Sparetire

Bingo.

One thing here too in regards to the sucking and blowing going on here.

Look up 'boost leak tester' on Google. Pretty much every DSM guy has one. It is critically important that you dont have any lines leaking air out of the intake pipes under boost, or sucking it in when you are just idling. All those leaks need to be fixed. If you dont, what happens is exactly what you described. You tend to run very rich under boost and very lean under normal driving conditions. Both are bad.

The best thing you could do now if a compression test to see on a very general level what condition the engine is in. If its healthy, take the car to stock, sell the parts you have, read up, and then go turbo as 5 other people have already said. Thats some darned good advice. I would also do an oil change to see what condition your bearings are in.

bobo10150

okay. i am running 93 octane.
so atleast im doing something right.
lol....
i have also read that running 0-6 psi i will not neeed tuning.
is that true.
if so then where the **** did i go wrong on this turbo thing lol

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Read SamNavy's post...you will need at a minimum:

1. retard base timing back to 6* (keeps you from detonating)
2. rising rate fuel pressure regulator (adds more fuel with boost by raising fuel rail pressure, giving stock injectors to act like larger injectors)

Installing the intercooler won't hurt either.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

^You probably listened to one of your douchebag Honda buddies. When you add air, you need to add fuel. Adding air is taken care of by the turbo. Adding fuel is done electrically via the ECU (that can't see boost in the Miata), or by mechanical means, which you have no hardware for.

It's a common mistake to listen to your buddies, who also have no clue and heard their information from one of their buddies who misread something on the internet. At least you know now... and probably in time to salvage something.

bobo10150

so you think i could break even at 4k for this pos?

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Nope.

Fix it.