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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 05-25-2010, 09:01 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by bobo10150 View Post
hmm. sixshooter. looking at my motor. nothing should be ran to the ecu right?
The stock wiring harness should still be running to the stock ECU in the passenger side of the interior. I'm not sure what you are asking.
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:06 PM   #62
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Remove the ugly wing and you will gain 5 horsepower.
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:10 PM   #63
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rider - thanks i will pm you shortly.
six shooter - looking at this setup, can you tell if ill have to unplug anything from inside the car, or is that stuff all bolt on? never saw the wiring and stuff before the screwing of the up lol...
thanks guys for all the help.
sorry im not the most clear when it comes to describing.
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:33 PM   #64
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Nothing should be connected inside the car.

Remove the intake tubing (the tubes that are black with the blue couplers).
Remove any lines going to the turbo (oil line most likely, there should be two, a feed line and a drain line going to your oil pan(the bottom most part of your engine (that thing under your hood)).
Remove downpipe (the exhaust tube that connects to the turbo) and exhaust.
Remove turbo manifold (the thing with the shitty heat wrap (that crap wrapped around the turbo manifold) and turbo.

Locate stock exhaust system.
Acquire said exhaust.
Install.
Locate stock intake, acquire, install. Make sure you install that air flow meter (the little black tube with the connector going to it right before your air filter).

Now you can drive your car safely and LEARN! Seriously just learn everything you can for 6 months. Then if you have enough money saved up you can start purchasing parts to do a cheap DIY turbo setup.
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:39 PM   #65
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You wouldn't need to fool with the wiring because it doesn't look like anything has been done to it.


Actually, I just thought of a plan. If you just want to be able to drive the car around safely without having to do ANYTHING else to it right now, just disconnect the wastegate actuator rod from the wastegate arm. This is on your turbo at the red arrow. There will likely be a little c-clip retaining it that can be removed with a flat head screwdriver or a pair of needle nose pliers. Lift the end of the actuator rod off of the little post it is on, and the little post that controls the internal wastegate should swing freely.
See diagram's red arrow showing location of c-clip and actuator rod/wastegate arm location.



Doing this will keep you from going into boost and will preserve your engine. You can drive it like that all day long without it being a problem. You can leave everything right where it is for now.

Do you have any questions?
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:47 PM   #66
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thanks!
lol
i understood all that perfectly.


=0
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:58 PM   #67
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mmk... i got a little problem.
it doesn't have the c clip.
ill post a pic of it tomorrow when sun comes back up.
thanks for your help
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:55 PM   #68
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And TAKE OFF THE HEAT WRAP!

The only thing it is doing is accelerating the decay of that manifold!

If nothing else, take a dremel to the little pin connecting rod there...just make sure you absolutely know for certain, without question, what you're doing before you grab a dremel.
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:31 PM   #69
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Is that MBC connected to the BOV!?! OMG!

JK!
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:33 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Actually, I just thought of a plan.
Honestly he should just uninstall that ****. Sell it. Drive around stock until he understands wtf is going on under that hood. Then piece together a cheap build that won't **** on him in a few months.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:06 AM   #71
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Are you guys sure Bobo isn't a troll looking for the ban stick?
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Old 05-26-2010, 11:03 AM   #72
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i'm going to do the thing six shooter said.
but how am i asking for the ban stick...?
just having a hard time understanding is all.
thanks guys
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Old 05-26-2010, 11:27 AM   #73
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Nah he isnt a troll he is just lost and confused as we all where at one time.
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Old 05-26-2010, 11:31 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbresee View Post
Are you guys sure Bobo isn't a troll looking for the ban stick?
I considered this at one point, but a troll would never go to the elaborate lengths to buy and then halfass install a bunch of parts. What we have here is the mechanically illiterate buyer of a shiny fake Rolex.

Bobo,
After you disconnect that rod you'll be fine. What you would make from reselling those cheap parts would likely be less than what it would cost to buy replacement parts to go back stock. Leaving it as it is will be just as practical at this point. And that weak exhaust manifold might not crack for a while if you aren't creating the extra heat of making boost (boost makes heat).
Also, the advice to remove the heat wrap from the exhaust manifold is good advice. Just cut those little pieces of wire tied around it and the fabric should come right off.

Then you can drive and enjoy your Miata.
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Old 05-26-2010, 11:44 AM   #75
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okay. im going today to look at some fuel management sytems and upgrading as well as getting my timing checked.
i don't get the whole troll thing though. whats that about?
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:36 PM   #76
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What? I'm about to call troll. Some fuel management systems????? GET A MEGASQUIRT LIKE EVERYONE HAS BEEN SAYING. But that is going to be soooOoo far over your head at first, which is why you need to STOP DOING THINGS TO YOUR CAR. At least until you can learn wtf each and every part of your car does and WHY you need a MS. '

This is why you need to uninstall that crap. So you lose a bit of money, or break even getting stock parts, but you at least get to do a bit of work on your car and familiarize yourself with a few parts. In the mean time you can read threads on here and figure wtf is going on.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:53 PM   #77
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Seriously stop trying to solve **** you dont even understand. You should inform yourself, then mod your car. Unless of course you like to throw money away and **** **** up.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:25 PM   #78
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Bobo, you've got a lot of reading to do, but FRT is right that you should not do any buying of parts or modifying anything until you REALLY understand how the whole system works. After studying earnestly for about six months, you will be able to make an informed decision how to proceed. A full understanding will prevent you from making expensive mistakes or wasting money on incorrect purchases.

You are not ready to use a Megasquirt because it requires understanding many things about your system that you don't yet understand. It is not a plug and drive system. It requires hours of data manipulation, calculation, and trial and error to tune. So do all other engine control computers for Miatas to various degrees. This is not the go-kart at the funland where you just hop in, push on the throttle, and go "WHEE!" If that is what you feel most comfortable with (and that is just fine), then just drive it with the wastegate arm disconnected and go "WHEE!" till you get hoarse. The car will be ready for you when your education level regarding four stroke internal combustion engines and forced induction systems reaches the necessary level to proceed further. Drive it, have fun with it, and if you desire more, study for a few months and learn about ignition, cam timing, the four strokes of a four stroke engine, stoichiometric combustion, Boyle's Law, forced induction, detonation, a/r ratios, turbo design and operation, and then lots of necessary Miata specific information. Then you will almost be ready.

Most of these guys are enthusiasts that have been studying these things for years because they are passionate about their hobby, and relentless in their quest for understanding. They just have a head start on you. Be patient and just study the parts of an engine and how it works first. Wikipedia is as good a place to start as any, but check this multi-page article out first:http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:32 PM   #79
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Bobo whats your address? I feel so bad for you that I will personally send you down my copy of Maximum Boost by Corky Bell to read. After you finish reading the book, read it again, and then for a third time. After the third time reading it then you might be smart enough to seriously get your car working correctly.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:45 PM   #80
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+1 on what sixshooter said. Start learning the basics and run without boost. Either that or find a good shop (references, turbo experience) to finish/fix the build and tune it for you. Guys that should be a relatively easy with a RRFPR and statically retarded timing no? Definitely not ideal but will get the job done. That way you can enjoy the turbo while you are learning about all of the other stuff, which is extensive, almost limitless in its scope.
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