Neogenesis2004 Turbo Miata V2.0
 

After building a turbo miata like... 3 years ago now... blowing that motor. Then building a wicked 1.6, selling off the car/motor to brgracer(Tom) before ever finishing the turbo build. Then buying the car back from Tom a year later sans built motor. I am finally ready to turbo the same miata again.

Got most of my parts in minus v-bands that I'm still patiently waiting for. Spent a couple hours today putting on the oil feed/return, putting on the turbo and mani. Stuck the IC up in front of the rad but it is no yet fastened on by anything. I was just seeing how it would look (SICK NASTY YO!1).

Tomorrow I will run to lowes and get a new 14" saw blade for my cutoff saw and fab up my cold and hot side pipes. They will both be custom/welded. Only bought 4 couplers, and thats all I plan to use. I would start work on the exhaust and knock it out too, but alas I am waiting on said v-bands.

Setup will basically be the standard ol shizzle but with some nice touches. It already has a ACT HD which Tom had

- T3-60 from a Ford, rebuilt of course
- ETD Shorty manifold
- Fully v-banded 3" exhaust, turbo back
- Adaptronic ECU
- RX7 550cc injectors, clean and flowed to 585cc
- LC1 wideband
- Decent sized ebay IC and custom pipes
- ugh.....lots of fun

KEWL! you should get a better camera though :laugh:

when do you think you'll sell this one?

I like that welded-on IWG-to-vband on the turbine exit. It reminds me of this one from ATP

Ultimate Internal wastegate valve for T3 5Bolt, high flow 3" V-band Style: atpturbo.com

Iphone camera FTL. I have a nice Sony but I need to find it and then recharge its batteries. These were just quick picks in the failing sunlight.

The only way it will be sold is if I cheap NB comes along and the price of the LS1 subframes drops in price a little.

Its the ebay version of the same thing. Reason its welded on is because like 4 of the bolts broke off in the housing when i went to rebuild the turbo. I said fuck it on removing them and just welded away.

Anyways, I will hopefully have the IC piping completed tomorrow. Welding pipes with a mig takes no time at all. Scratching my head while figuring out what bends I need where might take a couple hours. My biggest worry currently is that I am 1 90deg bend short of what I need.

lol i give it a month bbefore you sell it then 3 before you buy it back agian.

You guys are making me out to be an urbansoot like character. I'm many times more wealthy than I was in my college days. So money is not the determining issue now like it was then. As long as the car keeps making me smile when I drive it and I don't have to fix it monthly like Scott then it will continue to be in my driveway daily.

i think welding a v-band on mine is the right answer some day.

hey bri, dont feel bad. i'd seen parts I sold to people come back up on the classifieds in a few weeks unused a few times.

^^ +1. I have three intercoolers in my garage right now. Only one of them is going in the car. Another one is brand new and unused, bought it and did not like the way it was going to fit. The third one is my old IC linked to in my thread.

My last turbo system I had for less than a year and sold it.

I feel like you do. I was poor before and all during college. And now, though it is not where near limitless, I have some disposable income to play with, and so I am having some fun. Besides, it is not like these are Ferraris or anything. I mean, $100 intercoolers?! So why not experiment. I love this cheap Chinese crap.

I have been on call for work all weekend so I haven't been able to be quite as productive as I had hoped. I was able to get the hot side pipe welded, grinded, and painted. As I thought I ran short of the bends I need to finish the cold side. Luckily I preempted this last thursday and already have the extra bends I will need coming in the mail tomorrow.

The hot side pipe consists of more or less 4 90deg bends. One is a little less. It's a perfect fit and smooth all the way through.

I thought there was an app for that? :loser::jerkit:


Nice build. Subscribing!

Perfect timing. I just installed the same turbo on my 1.6. Should be interesting how they compare. I'm still using a 2.25 exhaust.

Just about have my cold side finished. Welding on the BOV and IAT flanges now. Hope to get a start on the DP too.

YAY!!! More crappy Iphone pics. I finished the cold side IC pipe and forgot to take pics. Then proceeded to start and nearly finish my DP.

The outlet is not the ideal turn but is required to clear the rear shelf. It is for the most part a steady curve. I fitted bend by bend and when I welded on the final bend to make it start going straight back I found that I can no longer fit the DP back down through the tranny tunnel. It hits on a combination of the steering shaft, the tranny, and the fram of the car. Luckily my flex pipe has slip fit connectors on both ends. So tomorrow I will be removing one and fitting it somewhere onto the DP so that I can get it to be removable. That should take me about an hour with head scratching, trips under the car, marking, and welding. After that I will get working on the rest of the exhaust which I can only assume will be much easier since there are no strange twists and turns under the car.

I hope to have the full exhaust completed by 3-4pm. Then I will finish wiring in the adaptronic and crank it over for first start. I also got my "new to me" Tein Flex in the mail today. Debating throwing them on as is with stock rates, or emailing Emilio to get some 9K springs for the front. I'll make another thread for that.

I like it except for that first "?" bend. You've got a welder and a chop saw... make a half dozen 3/4" pie-wedges and make it smoother. It's the fourth of July. Make sparks!

You know I wouldn't suggest spending $100+ on a stainless donut. But the wedge idea would work.

I wanted to do something like that Matt, but there is literally no room in the X, Y, or Z plane. As it is the dp is touching the heater hoses and they will need to be wrapped. The back side of that radius is smooth enough for me. The car will still make 230+ whp either way. So im not going to fuck with it any further. I need to make sure I can finish the rest of the exhaust with the bends I have. I'll look into a different solution in the future (not likely though if it puts down decent numbers).

I know the vertical weld looks fugly, but I actually cut that section and used the vice to bend the top inward to the top bend. On the inside it is a smooth transition.

what size is the turbine outlet vband? 3" or smaller?

The entire thing is 3" turbo back. Progress:

D3wD ur teh c00|3st

Tell me something I don't already know.

Big not to self, wear long sleeve shirt during extended sessions of welding. I have crucial sunburn all over my forearms. Not to mention ridiculous farmer's tan on my upper arms.

nice , reminds me of my first welds lol do you use gas or shielded wire?

Its just flux core. I'm to lazy to go fill my tank, way to lazy. I like to think its pretty decent considering its flux core.

Lookin' good

haha sunburn. buy yourself a cheap welding jacket. prevents sunburn and spatter burns.

looks good. which muffler is that?

Or just wear a long sleeve shirt silly. No need to buy anything. Silly buns!

What you want are a pair of gloves just for welding, leather outer, insulation in between and cotton lining, you can pick something VERY hot up with those for a short time. Plus, they are long and protect most of your forearms. I once baked my entire face by welding... was unrecognisable from all the swelling!

5x8x18 magnafow.

Got home today, installed knock sensor, ran wires for IAT and knock sensors, ran vacuum hose, plugged laptop into adaptronic, loaded up NA8 ecu file from travis's zip file. Changed engine type to B6 and cranked it over. Started right up! Not I'm going back outside to hook up the LC1 and take some logs. So far it idles decently, except once it starts getting warmed up the idle begins to oscillate. Possibly do to the fan always being on. Not sure why its doing that currently, the fan is not jumpered or anything.

Gratz!

hook up your lc1 and tune your idle mixture. it's probably off and causing oscillation.

Got the LC1 roughly wired in and calibrated. Adaptronic officially pwns noobs. Idle is already about perfect. I'm using the NA 1.8L basemap travis includes with the zip so it is off for my 1.6. I'm going to trow in my 550cc (flow 590cc) injectors tomorrow and just start tuning those.

Looking like a good build!

At the rate this is going, Travis will owe you a commission check. I'm waiting and watching. ;)

I just PM'd Stein to see if he will email me the ecu file he has for his car with the deastch 600cc injectors. I figure they are close enough that I can tune from for mine, ~590cc rx7 injectors. I'll just change the engine type and the injectors to peak/hold. Should work out perfectly.

I also hooked up a NB knock sensor. There is a spot at the bottom of the block just over the oil pan, in front of the engine mount that has the correct threading. I made a loom with wires for it and my IAT which is very close by on the cold side by the IC. Used bullet connectors for both sensors so that the ecu and harness are easily removable. Everything worked right away. The output of the knock sensor can be seen clearly and is working great. Once I have a basemap that I can drive around on I will get the fuel roughly tuned, long knock and set up that baseline graph. Then it will be time to put the ign autotune to work. I'm pretty excited. Should be making around 250whp by the end of the weekend.

Update:

I took the car for a drive on Wednesday. Was running great, then out of no where I smelled brake fluid and on a sweeping left turn I saw smoke. I pulled over and my turbine and dp were red hot. Also my brake reservoir was completely melted. My first instinct was my timing. I wasn't knocking but something must be wrong. So I looked and the ecu file I was using from Stein went from 30 adv at 60kpa down to 18adv at 80 and 100 kpa. A huge drop in adv before even hitting boost.

Well the next day I put in all the values from Scott's timing map and went to a yard to pick up a replacement res. Got it swapped, burnt the new settings, also wrapped my dp, heater hoses, and entire master cylinder and res in exhaust wrap. Went for a drive and got into boosta couple times to redline. Pulled over immediately to look at the turbine ans dp. No red in sight, egt issue solved timing good. Also, no knock at all in the log.

When I got home I took a close look at everything to make sure that I had the heat issue solved. WRONG!!!! The new res had a melted lid and the body of it had melted inward and become brittle enough from heat to break. So I now knew that my turbine and dp were high enough, and close enough, to be causing major issues due to radiant heat.

Today I got yet another replacement reservoir, and also fabricated a heatshield. Its like a friggin box. It surrounds the entire thing. To have even more insurance I purchased the following and will get it tomorrow, Design Engineering DEI 010141 - DEI T3 Turbo Titanium Heat Shield Kits – SummitRacing.com . Burschur Racing did a test with it back in Dec last year. On the dyno it lowered the turbine temps from almost 700F down to 250F just by strapping it on. To top it off, it was cool enough to touch within 1 minute. I figure that on the turbine and then cover that with my heatshield pictured below and I will be able to put a cold beverage on top without worrying about it heating up.

Got the Turbo blanket today as well as my 9k front springs for the Flex's. I went ahead and put the blanket on the and wrapped the dp. Afterward I put the heatshield on top, although I don't have pics of that. You will also see that I took some reflective sleeving and put it around the heater core hoses. This will help stop the radiant heat from causing them to fail.

Well it has completely cured my radiant heat issues. While even the AL heatshield gets hot enough you can't touch it, the temperature of the air immediately off of it is not much higher than ambient. So it is effectively reflecting almost all of the heat.

I also went ahead and hooked up the wg arm and tightened it a little. I am hitting 10psi at around 3200rpm and it creeps up a little from there. I need to mess with the ebc settings in WARI next. I'm currently just using what stein already had in his ecu file and WG (ebc log in WARI) starts going up from 0 as soon as I hit boost. I assume this means that the ebc is opening right away, which I don't want.

So, good and bad news.

First with the bad, The top bend of my dp that I made was causing a major restriction because it was to sharp of a bend. The effect of the cause was my dp heating up to ridiculously high temps. Remember that exhaust wrap I put on my dp in my last post, the stuff that can withstand 1800F of direct contact heat continuously? Well the part wrapped around the sharp bend was charred BLACK. It desintagrated on contact with my finger. Naturally I was concerned about this, even though my spool wasn't greatly affected and my heatshield was controlling radiant heat. The point is I wanted to eliminate the issue to prevent any future....meltdowns....

So I have a few options:
1) Cut the wing on the shelf back to the firewall similar to v8 swap guys. This would give me room to have a smooth 90deg bend.
2) Go to EWG and cut off the IWG housing and weld a vband directly to the housing. This would be ideal, better boost control and no cutting.

Then, after looking at the manifold for like 15min it hit me.... Why did ETD make this a top mount? They state on their site that it was made this way so that any size turbo can fit in the miata. While that's great I plan on sticking with my T3 and maxing it out. It should get me the 300whp I want. SO, I sought out to see if I could flip the manifold and make it a bottom mount.

To test it out I removed the middle stud and then made tiny tiny notches for two other studs so I could slip the manifold on upside down.

WELL, IT FITS!!!! I am going to find a good welder locally, hopefully, and have them use a bandsaw to cut the runners flush at the flange, flip it over, and reweld. I am going to keep the vband thing on and I welded the flapper shut. I ordered a Tial 38mm MVS vband EWG and it will be here on Friday. This weekend I will remake the top section of dp and should be able to make it nearly a straight shot along the tranny.

Who knows, instead of hitting boost target at 3300rpm maybe I can break into 2XXX rpm. Here's to hoping :beer:

Nice thinking man, that should work perfectly
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wouldn't you want more than 2 bolts on each end holding the manifold on?

You are an idiot, did you even read the post?

Reading is fundamental.
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Low mount FTW.

Going down usually gives good results.

How many more ways can Hustler say it?

I agree, nice thinking on flipping the mani over, it'll give you a lower mount and better routing for DP.

If I had to venture a guess, and thats all I'm doing.. They made it top mount to clear power steering, which you no longer have. :)

im likeing this build so far...


lol! :laugh: its does indeed .

wow dude thanks for being an asshole you said nothing about adding more bolt locations. you just said "have a welder reweld a flange for your vband"
jesus all i did was ask a question...

he's cutting off the head flange off the manifold, then he's flipping it over and rewelding it back into the runners. this way all the bolt holes line up perfectly again....just like he stated.

:facepalm:
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Glad you're getting back into it man, I just went through the thread. You need to get that tank filled, you know its worth it lazy ass :P
Find a welder worth your while yet?

I'm using y8s 110V Lincoln. Its a great little unit. I'm going to get the tank flled tomorrow or friday actually. I went to a couple performance shops today after work and they all kept giving me the run around about how hard it would be and that they could cut it flush because of blah blah blah.

So I went to the local machine shop thats been in town for ages. You know the kind with all the good ol boys that have been doing machine work since they were in high school and now they are all 50+. I showed it to them said exactly how I wanted it cut, and the guy was like "I'll call you tomorrow when its done". Will charge me like $40 for 1/2hr of work.

Since all the shops are giving me a hard time I will just prep and weld it myself. I feel confident in my ability after the experience of welding the whole exhaust. I do want to do it right though so I'm going to use shielding gas. Hopefully I can get it right with matt's ghetto regulator with no gauge on it lol.

Well, I picked up the cut manifold from the machine shop today. They did the perfect job. I turned the manifold onto the flange and the runners lined up perfectly still. Being impatient, I turned up the heat to max on the welder and just went ahead an flux cored it. Watching the bead as I welded I have zero worries as to the penetration. It is just as strong as before I had it cut. I also got the 38mm 2 bolt to 38mm vband adapter that I had bought from ATP turbo. Originally I was going to just bolt it on, but instead I just cut off the wings, cut off the original 2 bolt flange on the manifold, and welded that bitch on. I am going into work late tomorrow so that I can drop off the manifold to be resurfaced tomorrow. I'll pick it back up after work.

Assuming it doesn't rain or anything tomorrow, I am going to go ahead and fix the dp to the turbo section. The Tial will arrive on Sat and I will finish the dp then. Once I get the dp done on Friday I will get working on the heatercore return reroute. As you can see in the pics I just flipped it 180deg. I plan to use the original hard pipe along with sections of straight heater hose. It will take a 90deg turn up from the inlet and a straight section to the vc. Then it will take a 90deg turn toward the firewall and another straight section of heater hose will run the rest of the length. I will attach it to the vc at the front and rear vc bolts and secure it with those 1 bolt hose clamp things that i dont know the name of. Eventually I would like to have a nice hard pipe in place of everything, but until then this plan will work. To secure the oring fitting side of the return into the inlet I will think of something....

killer! you should coat it with this shit to disguise your welds.

VHT FlameProof™ Coating

Meh, I'm not even worried about it. And the welds are not bad, its just the shitty iphone camera FTL.

dude, that's awesome. Good job man.
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As you know by now, I'm not one to rest. I was at my friends PC shop hanging out until he closed at 7 and then came home. The sun was still out and it never started raining so I decided to get to work. Got the dp finished except for finish welding. I will get the heater return sorted tomorrow and then I'm one the path to boost come Sat.

As you can see below, the new dp is MUCH better than the previous version. It has no bend greater than 45deg. I can already smell the boost!

THAT'S what I'm talkin about. not going to melt anythng now. btw, I told you so :D

do yourself a favor and cut off the cam-gear covers. That way you can see if you jumped a tooth and it makes a timing belt job take about 30-minutes, not 2-hours.

I actually ordered a capri vc and it will be here next week. It doesn't cover the cam gears at all.

If you were refering to my dp buring everything in site, I can tell you that it is not EGT's. My manifold and turbine have never glowed at all. It was the top bend of my original dp that glowed and burnt up any exhaust wrap I could put on it. My timing is dead on as verified with a timing light.

FWIW, I have a top mount Greddy turbo and manifold, with a 2.5" down pipe. There's a similar sharp turn right at the beginning. I have the Bowser heat shield that's actually touching the now larger down pipe right at said bend, and I have had zero issues even at the track. My heater lines have that fire hose type stuff on them and that's it.

That bend that I made did not have a smooth outside radius. It had a little bit of a corner to it that was likely reflecting the pulses backward. Also the inside radius of that top turn is 0. It was not a smooth transition. I'm sure if you posted a pic of your greddy dp the top turn is surely much smoother, and also not nearly a 180deg turn down.

Plus, regardless of the aformentioned glowing dp issue. The new setup is much improved and only cost me a total of $250ish extra. Well worth the cost.