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LOL @ your jack support block.
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Originally Posted by huesmann
(Post 1278629)
LOL @ your jack support block.
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I cut the factory slave down about half an inch to accommodate the tII trans bell housing and fork. Clutch engages and disengages very nicely I might at. Once cars running will definately know what other quirks may arise. As for now I'm working on building a mount for the rear of the trans I'm going to essentially tie the torque bar to the trans as well as to the whole frame of the car so that everything is structully locked. Will post pics should have most of it fabbed tonight.
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Hello, thank you for deciding to make real power. I have some feedback for your quest.
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1265947)
<p>For that much boost you are going to need a whole lot more crank case venting. There are some good threads around.</p><p>You need a rear trans mount solution, diff mount solution.</p><p>Interested in holset spool. I'm currently on the hunt for a hx30.</p>
Originally Posted by Gibbs
(Post 1269165)
Let me add some advise form someone making only ~280hp.
You NEED to do a coolant reroute Don't mess with any other radiator fans but Spal Get the FM cross flow radiator Talk to Reverant about his Enhanced Megasquirts Get rid of the heat wrap on your manifold Insulate the trans tunnel from heat, the inside of the car will get hot. If you are track day bro then you have a whole other set of issues. Street and track builds are extremely different. Now, strip and road course track are also extremely different. Don't build for strip.. it will be a waste of your money and time and the best ET I've known of for a miata was 11.3 which is fucking lame and that car had 447hp and broke so many things on the way to that ET. Please just build for street and make a car that actually works. For power I have some tips. 1. Tune your VVT cus it will help spool massively and alter your power curve dramatically. The more boost you're running the bigger a difference it will be. 2. Run a big fucking exhaust and downpipe. If you do some research into dyno proven setups on other forums where people make real power like evo land and supra land you'll see 3.5" or 4" is the way to go. Choad exhaust is ideal, short and wide. This will affect your spool. I talk about spool a lot because with shit little crap gt28 turbos you can spool hundreds or a thousand rpm later and people don't give a fuck because who gives a shit they're not getting a massive rise in power they can wait for slow spool.. but with a bigger turbo you need hard dick big dingaling padoinking you in the nono NOW NOW NOW NOWNOW MORE NOW 3. You are clearly a capable mechanic so tear that head apart STAT and put in stiffer valve springs!!!! This mod had a HUGE impact on the driveability of my car. Revving to 8500 RPM changes the entire feel of the car and when you're running a bigger turbo, it means that you will have a much wider powerband, shift later and your car will sound awesome. 4. The NB stock intake manifold is not that great. It's a restriction. 5. If you want a twin disc ceramic 949 clutch i am selling mine. If you put it in your car it will be racecar and no longer be fun to drive. Unless you flat shift and burnout at traffic lights and that's why you have three broken rx7 transmissions in the garage |
More. Dual feed fuel rail is overrated. Who gives a fuck. No, you're not gonna blow up a cylinder cus it's fuel starved. but if it makes you feel better do it. FWIW i run dual feed and dual bosch 044 and i also land on the moon
I use ID1000 and they felt smoother than RC750. How much better? Idunno the car ran shit that's pretty damn good. Sequential spark is nice but not worth power for the headache. LS coil dwell can be finicky and stupid and I say just run the stock NB VVT coils. I made 398hp with those and had zero issue with blowout. I swapped em out and whee it was yet another thing to tune. Sigh Oh regarding tuning. Let me guess. You don't know how to tune. I'm not being an asshole. Most mechanics who can build a motor don't know how to tune. That's not necessarily a bad thing. I myself am a miserable amateur mechanic that is good at one mechanical thing- destroying. But I had no problem learning how to tune and for me that's a lot of fun and is really easy. You will need a basemap. You will also need someone good to tune your basemap. Someone who knows how to set up closed look knock trim maps. Someone that knows how to make a 3d timing curve and do the math to build a rough boost fuel map from a 0psi datalog. Ideally, you will need someone that understands how to squeeze out that 500hp potential in that HY and how to set up timing during high boost spool. Frankly, all of that stuff is easy but it is intimidating because if you fuck up your car gets deaded. I say it's easy but it also can be frustrating because tuning is systemic, with many parameters affecting the function of other parameters. Right now my car is having a consistent misfire at 6500RPM. Is it dwell? Is it my LS coils? Is it my fuel map? Is it my VVT or timing map? Is it my rev limiter? Is it knock trim because something vibrates at that frequency? Is it bad fuel? All of those above questions are the difference between a science project and just driving your car and enjoying it. Apparently, I liked the science project aspect more because I made my solid daily driveable car into a finicky intermittently driveable racecar. And then I bought 3 more cars because the car I really loved was in general, broken. Anyways, figure out the tuner thing asap. If you want to learn to tune, and I think anyone with a heavily modified car should--- pay someone who is good at your EMS for a lesson. Or pay them to tune and also train you. Tuning is the difference between slapping on a I/H/E and slapping on a turbo/mani/ic/exhaust. Both are just bolts but the turbo setup needs tuning. And also has like 20x or more performance benefit. |
Fae, thanks for chiming in! I appreciate someone who has actually done high hp on a bp engine chiming in. As far as tuning I have a friend who does high hp turbo LS engine tuning who is going to at least do all the base mapping etc, and I will be using the stock rail. I'm a mechanic by profession. Mechanicals are easy to me. But I have not built a high hp car and I bought my Miata on a spur of the moment ordeal and decided this was my car to truly build my first high hp turbo car. I'm going to continue updating the best I can! Crank case venting I was going to determine how bad it was and possible do what you did, I spent a few weeks reading every one of your build pages. Oh and this is my fun car so it's been parked for over a year now and this is how far I've gotten. Being a mechanic we don't make big bucks exactly. So this is a high hp take out cruising every few weekends for a night of shananigans car. Not looking for a DD or a drag car. Just something to have good times in!
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Also my head has the Volvo valve springs in it, there somewhere in the 80lbe territory if I remember right. There the sealed power zv850 I believe is the part number.
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Originally Posted by Laurent
(Post 1279361)
Also my head has the Volvo valve springs in it, there somewhere in the 80lbe territory if I remember right. There the sealed power zv850 I believe is the part number.
Am excited to see a HY35 miata on the road. I seriously considered using that. get er dun! |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 1279363)
Very nice--- get a good basemap for your car from wherever you get your megasquirt. That will mostly just leave the fuel and timing for your guy.
Am excited to see a HY35 miata on the road. I seriously considered using that. get er dun! I will keep updating as I go. I'm in MN so the tempurature is dropping fast but I hope to get the car assembled before freezing temps. Megasquirt will be early spring! |
I enjoy Fae's responses. That is all I can contribute to this conversation.
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who hacked precious's account?
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Gibbs offers good advice.
There are many "secrets" regarding making lots of power that are not secret at all. But, IF one exists, it is in the overall balance and tuning of the engine management. corky |
I'm curious to see how this works out with the HY35 and VVT. My friend runs an hy35 (~30psi) with a tubular manifold on his DSM and it's laggyasfuck.
in for dyno pulls. |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456426158
Got about 70 percent of underhood stuff done. Finishing trans mount soon then car will be shipped off to have my driveshaft made https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456426158 |
I could fit my head inside that turbo.
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Been pretty busy
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Cars driving
so finally got the car driving. Got a driveshaft made as well as the clutch trans and all the driveline stuff all worked out. All on stock ecu for now. Running out of fuel at 5psi haven't decided what to do about the return less fuel system yet. Also saving for a ms pNp pro
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https://youtu.be/bgOaih5_PZM
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