Its an 01 with 01 BP vvt engine. However my megasquirt doesn't have vvt tuner yet. Yeah I haven't decided what to do with my manifold yet. However, I do make all my own parts so changing flanges isn't a huge deal to me.

 

I would go with somehting even bigger than a 2560. A gt2871 on a nice manifold will still spool very fast and give you the head room to reach the potential of your stock shortblock.

 

2560 at bare minimum if you want 250 with a little headroom.
2871 if you want a good bit of headroom.
and 30r+ if you want tons of headroom.

don't be afraid of larger turbos. people that diss them are usually the ones that never had one.

 

Yeah I'm not going to lie. I don't know much about turbo sizes when I look at the specs. So the turbo I'm interested in (until I can afford a baller borg warner efr) is the one I referenced above. I will compare it, size wise, to garretts later. On another note they cut the old quarter panel off of my car today. I'll have to learn how to upload pics soon, and get time to do it.
Eventually I do want a built motor, but I don't know when that'd be.

 

From the conversation we had the other day, I think you would want this manifold...buy it or build your own:
http://www.absurdflow.com/products.html
check out the first manifold on that page.
As for turbo...I'm buyin the Godspeed 3076...it's $299 on ebay. Everyone I'm ever read about that used it had zero problems.
I'm going to run that turbo on between 10-14 psi (whatever maxes out my RX8 425's).
If you would want like 300whp, that turbo will do it, obviously with more boost. For an over 300whp power level, I'd run Deatschwerks 600's due to being that bosch type that I told you about.

 

Yeah that really would be a good one to clone for a low mount setup. I was thinking more along the lines of a ram horn style manifold. But I'd also like to position the turbo farther back. I'll look more into it when I get the car back. Then I'll decide on my plan of action. Which will most likely be chop one flange off and weld one on, and modify my down pipe. I just looked at those injectors and they are slick. I'll definitely keep them in mind. Thanks

 

im running a mitsu big 16g ath 14psi and im making at least 250whp... fast spool very durable turbo.

 

How do you know you're making at least 250whp? Did you dyno the car?

 

smart butt dyno;
or in other words a smart donkey

 

I'm also curious about this.

 

he dyno'd 225 a couple months after I dyno'd my car.
we then re-tuned it and it "feels" a bit stronger.

so I'd say 250 is a good guesstimate.

 

I think the big thing is if it is a street car or a track car. I have ran a 2554 on a begi setup and I loved it more then my absurdflow 2871 on the street, but on the track I prefer the bigger turbo.

 

I guess it depends on style.
I had the hks 2535 (basically 2860) on the street, then went to a 3076 also on the street, enjoyed the 3076 a LOT more.

 

I expect a little more manliness out of a fellow gun owner than what you've shown here.

I love my 2860rs (.86)on the street, hitting 12psi at 3200rpm. It's bauce. I've driven a 2554 car and although it makes boost off idle I'd wager that it's still slower under 3200rpm than my tater and probably uses more fuel in cruise since it's always screaming with very small throttle input.

 

I enjoyed being able to have boost instantly with the 2554 on the street. In the traffic in NoVA being able to be in boost instantly to get around was a very nice feature. The extra lowend was like bliss, but up top it did really fall on its face above 6k. Even Braineack will say he would love driving my car just because the instant low-end torque.

With my 2871 it seems more like I need bigger open spaces on the road to enjoy the boost. I cannot simply be on it for 3 quick seconds when I need a little more power.

 

I don't know man, I guess my car is just "better" than yours. When I put the 300lb air brake/tire trailer on my car and roll 250-miles each way, even at 3000rpm at 60mph in 6th is zips like a diesel truck and I will drop down to 50mph or so and leave it in 6th, with the trailer. Let's also not forget that I'm pretty much the best tuner on Earth so that probably has something to do with it too, lol.

You and I need to switch cars and zip around for a while to put this turbo debate to bed. I think that hitting ~250wtq 200-500rpm on my turbo makes it a bit easier to drive, it definitely helps me with gear selection on the track. Now that I'm back to tracking this car on a good head, its faster than I want it to be, again.I know what you mean though, it's like a challenge to not go to jail every time I drive it on the street. Really, it's hard because the thing builds speed so fast with very small throttle input.

 

Oh yeah, to the OP. If you really want 250whp on a Mustang Dyno, get the GT2860rs or 2871 (or bigger). This is a pretty tough decision with a lot of variables. If you must keep the stock engine with softy-rods, get a cheap, used pea-shooter turbo for now and save your pennies.

 

Try idling in stop and go traffic and need to quickly switch lanes in 1rst gear, having boost boost right then at 2200 rpms was extremely nice. Being above 3k rpms cruising is never an issue, it was always the low gears at low speeds that having instant torque was awesome.

I am also not sure if you are the best tuner on Earth. I will gladly give you the title for Texas, but I am betting that you would have some competition from the guys at DIY for best on Earth.

One day when I get a chance to visit Texas we will swap cars. So far I have not been able to convince my boss to move me and all our hardware out there.

 

We'll see how much they can bench, squat, and deadlift...then we'll see who the champion is. If it's close, we'll go by test levels. I'm talking about the total of that shop of course, so they can combine every employee there to make it fair when going against me. There's is a reason I charge $5000/hour.

Everything I know about tuning I learned from this forum, on stuff that DIY built for me since I'm dumb, lol.

 

Completely different driving styles I guess.
For me, having the off-idle boost meant jerking around like a dumbass, constantly spinning and sliding, and then when you want to open her up, she falls on her face past 80.
When I'm in traffic/busy street and need to change lanes or speed up, the well tuned "out of boost" area of my curve had plenty of toruqe (140ish at 2k and 200ish at 3k) was more than enough to do this. I don't need boost since then you're going way too fast and wasting a ton of gas. A big turbo at 1-2psi is already moving tons of air and makes the car very peppy and responsive.
The transition into boost on the 30 was spectacular: so silky smooth, so powerful yet controlled, it was awesome. I got 30mpg when I didn't constantly redline it too, which was win. And then, in those rare occasions when the road was clear/open, or we went out with some friends to mess around and race each other, I would open her up and she would pull like a friggen freight train all the way til I let off. Brought nothing but grins to my face

*edit: also, the sounds a 30r with a 4" inlet makes when spooling up is...................music to my ears
the only thing that tops that is failflowers Borg s366