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Noob turbo selection help...

Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by thirdgen
How do you know you're making at least 250whp? Did you dyno the car?
fwd...no traction til arond 1/2 track...id say 250whp is a pretty good estimate

right lane



clutch let go as i hit peak boost. guy running it on the dyno let it rev up til it popped off rev limiter a few times and let off... the clutch kind of grabbed a little on decel

Attached Thumbnails Noob turbo selection help...-127timeslip.jpg  
Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:09 PM
  #42  
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that little sh!tbox MOVES.

you goin out this weekend JT?
Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:14 PM
  #43  
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i go out every weekend... ill need more tuning help if a friend buys my B6T head cause ill be getting those 1000cc ev14's from fiveo
Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:27 PM
  #44  
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Cool beans. Lets see if we could get it to spin 4th and 5th like 1-3rd LOL


Back on topic
Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #45  
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yea... lets see how fast i can break my 8th trans...lol
Old Jan 18, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
Oh yeah, to the OP. If you really want 250whp on a Mustang Dyno, get the GT2860rs or 2871 (or bigger). This is a pretty tough decision with a lot of variables. If you must keep the stock engine with softy-rods, get a cheap, used pea-shooter turbo for now and save your pennies.
I hate you for saying this because now I'm remembering I know a machinist who wouldn't charge me for this work. And rods aren't bank breaking expensive. AND the cars already in the shop I mean I could just pull the engine take it to him and have that be that. It just seems like a crime or something to tear apart a 40,000 mile engine. No one believes it when they see it.
Old Jan 18, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gorillazfan1023
I hate you for saying this because now I'm remembering I know a machinist who wouldn't charge me for this work. And rods aren't bank breaking expensive. AND the cars already in the shop I mean I could just pull the engine take it to him and have that be that. It just seems like a crime or something to tear apart a 40,000 mile engine. No one believes it when they see it.
If you know a machinist that will hook you up then you need to throw in a set of pistons too. Renown Performance on here has a nice bundle to build a bottom end.
Old Jan 18, 2012 | 11:39 PM
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I've been eyeing up the SCAT rods on 949...Thats a hard price to beat. Just wondering what is the benefit to forged pistons over the stock cast? I thought the oem ones were fairly strong?
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 02:19 AM
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^ Its more about knock resistance then actual strength when it comes to the pistons i think. On e85 i am sure sock pistons could go way beyond what anyone would expect.
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 1slowna
^ Its more about knock resistance then actual strength when it comes to the pistons i think. On e85 i am sure sock pistons could go way beyond what anyone would expect.
Cool, thanks for the info. I was talking to a local mechanic (he's doing a swap into an rx-7). And he told me where I could get e85 and it happens to be right by my campus. So I'll look into that as well
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 1slowna
^ Its more about knock tolerance then actual strength when it comes to the pistons i think, however that tolerance will run out with enough exposure. On e85 i am sure sock pistons could go way beyond what anyone would expect.
FTFY. I assume at some point the strength of ring lands come into play but I don't know where, nor do I really know what I'm talking about in general.


I say that E85 on stock pistons with strong rods is a good way to go if you're on a budget.
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 10:18 AM
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Cool I'll definitely look into it. I've heard e85 is corrosive though. Or is that not really an issue?
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 12:24 PM
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That is more of a long term issue, however i would replace all the rubber hoses with braided. I know a guy who did the conversion on his 03 cobra and he kept all the stock lines and everything and its still kicking 2 years later, this does not mean i would try it though, if a line splits it could be very dangerous.

Thanks for the correction and added information hustler.
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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I know people using it for 2+ years exclusively and no issues. Stock everything besides pump/injectors.
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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Good to know thanks. I think I found the turbo I'm going to try. By the looks of it, it is exactly what underdog got for his second turbo.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-TURBO-CHA...#ht_3431wt_986
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 02:32 PM
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Oil cooled only. Is that ok ya think?
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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nothing wrong with oil cooled only.
just idle the car for like 10-15 seconds after driving spiritedly or get a turbo timer
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
nothing wrong with oil cooled only.
just idle the car for like 10-15 seconds after driving spiritedly or get a turbo timer
This
Old Feb 2, 2012 | 10:07 PM
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Just resurrecting this thread to say I got my turbo, my first thoughts, "damn, should've gone bigger" haha. Also my car is done being fixed. Megasquirt goes in this weekend. Then next weekend it's injectors turbo and full 2.5" exhaust unrestricted...I should learn to post pics and make a build thread or something.
Old Jan 28, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Resurrecting my old thread because making a new one would be pointless.

I've been racking my brain the past couple of days trying to think of options now that I destroyed another turbo. I have the poors so I'm limited to used and china stuff. I've been scouring the dyno section as well. I've come to the conclusion that a GT2871r would suit me well but both of my manifolds are T3 flanged so I'm limited there as well.

Setup and goals:
Log manifold, 2.5" straight through exhaust, and ms2.
I do have a tubular manifold that needs finished and 3" exhaust to be made so that'll be in the future.

Uses of the car are primarily highway commuting. Well I use it for everything but I'm on the highway a lot. It will never be raced or autocrossed other then maybe for fun

I have vvt's but I'm not controlling it. That plus bad boost control is costing me a bunch of power. So short question. Do I buy another ebay turbo that I had before, then vvt's so I can make real powers? I had this turbo T3 INTERNAL WASTEGATE TURBO CHARGER .48ar

I don't mind my powerband but I feel like it's bad for the size of the turbo. I'm not entirely sure if it's because of it being ebay (saw dyno's etc of ebays always being outperformed by genuine turbo's) bad boost control, or vvt's, or all of them combined.

So I was looking at craigslist and saw a of turbonetic's T3/T4 57 trim turbo's. When I talked to the owner he said it was on a crx before and made 300whp at 13psi. So I'd be running like 8psi which wouldn't even get me into a good efficiency range

Basically is a bigger turbo worth it? Or would you prefer a smaller turbo but more boost? In my mind I wouldn't mind a bigger turbo but I feel at the low power level I'll be running that it might be a little pointless.

Hopefully this makes a little bit of sense.
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