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o2 Bungs on Downpipe
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I just installed my BEGi downpipe, and I was stupid and it didn't click that the o2 bungs were on the lower half of the pipe until I got it installed and went to install the WB sensor.
I talked to Stephanie today, and they're willing to work with me to fix it, but she said that she's talked to WB vendors that say that as long as the sensor is above about the 7 or 8 o'clock position (which mine looks to be), it should be fine. What's the general consensus here? I've been taught and told that you keep it as high as possible to avoid moisture damage, but if it'll be ok as is, I'd rather avoid the hassle of getting it changed. But if it's gonna kill sensors, I'm going to change it. Attachment 214749 |
I wouldn't want mine be below 3 or 9 o-clock. I'd get that fixed.
Also, think about it's placement, the O2 sensor would probably be the lowest point on the car, I bet they don't like to be hit with objects on the highway, or cones for that matter. |
I have never seen a recommendation below 10 degrees ABOVE horizontal for a permanent installation. This is done so that you don't get condensate forming in the unit. Temporary use bungs for dyno tuning can be below horizontal for access, but those units are removed while still warm in most cases.
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Is that where they normally put it?
Straight from the LM-1 manual; The bung must be installed in the exhaust pipe at the side or on top, NOT on the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Best position is between 10:00 and 2:00 position. |
yup.....my begi S downpipe has two bungs pointing in the 6 o'clock position. i guess it's a good location if you like destroying O2 sensors.
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Mine are close to horizontal. Guess I got lucky.
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OK, thanks guys! I just wanted to see if I was missing something, but clearly I'm right on the money. I'll get things rolling my way tomorrow.
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I see that downpipe as a possibility in my future, and will be sure to specify bung placement when I order.
C |
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I too have had problems with the BEGi downpipe I ordered with O2 sensor position. I'm at the point where I believe they are incapable of building a downpipe with correct bung positions. I would think that with a shop that specializes in Miatas, could figure out where to correctly mount a sensor bung so it doesn't interfere with anything, but unfortunately, this is not the case. I'm also a little baffled by the use of steel bungs on a stainless steel downpipe. I'm extremely disappointed with this fact as they have a good reputation, but because of my incident and what followed, I will never buy another product from them, let alone have them do any custom fabrication for me. Attached is a picture of where they thought my O2 sensor should be located......
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A sensor bung facing down is super convenient for the dyno. If I were having a custom DP made, I'd have a bung at the NB location, a second facing down pre cat, and a third facing up pre cat.
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Ordered mine a few months ago, Stef emailed me pics to mark for location.
Actually, come to think of it I have 2 bungs in the WB location...the original that they put in which is very close (prob same) as the OP's pic, and then one I marked for them with correct orientation... And I have a 3rd pretty much right where its located on the stock dp for the stock 02... |
Originally Posted by karter74
(Post 202656)
I'm extremely disappointed with this fact as they have a good reputation, but because of my incident and what followed
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I've put WB bungs on 3 different headers. Best place I found was near the flange around the 3 oclock position. Plenty of room for the sensor and it was on a slight angle to prevent the condensation issue. Plus I think it may keep the sensor from overheating. I haven't read issues of WB sensors being too cold, but I've read things about them getting too hot. I have to take a look at my recently received downpipe. It has 2 bungs welded in before the flex joint, but I haven't looked at it hard enough to see where they would put the WB sensor.
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Here's mine, it could stand to be moved closer to vertical by like 5 more degrees but it doesn't come close to hitting anything the way it is now.
Attachment 214727Attachment 214728 |
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You can put the wideband in your muffler tip for all it matters. Just as long as you don't have exhaust leaks and you don't get a reversion of air into it. It's got a built in heater.
Durka Durka here's mine. Tons of space to get a wrench in there too. Attachment 214725 |
Originally Posted by sv650_ck
(Post 203185)
What followed?
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Originally Posted by olderguy
(Post 202562)
I have never seen a recommendation below 10 degrees ABOVE horizontal for a permanent installation. This is done so that you don't get condensate forming in the unit. Temporary use bungs for dyno tuning can be below horizontal for access, but those units are removed while still warm in most cases.
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the 7-8 o clock position doesn't bother me....what bothers me is it's facing the side of the car, therefore the routing of the wires will be interesting at best.
i opted for horizontal. http://www.boostedmiata.com/blown_en...inepull004.jpg |
Interesting thread.. i'll take a pic of where i'm thinking about. I wanted the wideband and o2 sensor to be maybe 3 inches apart..
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hahaha crush bent dp FTL
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http://bellengineering.net/Images/Mi...o/P2010709.JPG |
:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: |
Im gonna be pretty disappointed if it doesn't fit right, should be great though. I'll be using my Tial 38mm i'm currently running but i'll also be using a T3 60trim instead of the current .80/.48 T25.
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:magna:
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Originally Posted by PaKMaN
(Post 203667)
:magna:
C |
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 203660)
Im gonna be pretty disappointed if it doesn't fit right, should be great though.
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9...lowcockna1.png |
Originally Posted by chriscar
(Post 203676)
GOD I hate that damn smiley.
C |
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 203660)
Im gonna be pretty disappointed if it doesn't fit right, should be great though. I'll be using my Tial 38mm i'm currently running but i'll also be using a T3 60trim instead of the current .80/.48 T25.
Don't get me wrong, quality of materials and welds are great, fitment.....not so much |
Without going into nitty gritty details, they wanted me to pay for shipping back to them for their mistake, but finally agreed to pay both ways. I marked the correct location for the replacement O2 bung, and emailed them pictures of the issue, and included a letter of what needed to be done to make it work. They sent it back to me, with the new O2 bung in the correct location, but even though the pictures speak for themselves, they just welded a plug into the bung, creating even more of an issue. After numerous phone calls back and forth, and after shipping my downpipe back and still not fixed, I was literally told that they won't mess with it anymore and I had to find someone else to fix it on my dime. Great customer service, nothing like paying $400 for a downpipe that doesn't fit and not even willing to fix correctly...... __________________ |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 203725)
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Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 203802)
Damnit Joe, quit picking my car apart.
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 203815)
Heh. Sorry, dude. I know what it's like to be stuck with hackish parts while you're trying to get something done. Truth is I'd been looking for an excuse to use that chicken picture for a while. :cool:
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Just fit checked my rear bung location with the sensor. The sensor cabling is up against the transmission. The dp also need to rotated in that direction to get some clearance up top.
Attachment 214697 If the bung was located an inch or two towards the front looks like it would clear just fine even with the dp rotated some more. Attachment 214698 |
The only time the lower bung has been used on my DP was on the dyno. I have my wideband in the stock location.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 205143)
The only time the lower bung has been used on my DP was on the dyno. I have my wideband in the stock location.
Can the stock 02 just be disconnected from the harness alltogether with no issues/cels/etc?? I'll be running MS if that helps any? |
Figured I would ressurect this thread rather than start a new one.
I spoke with Stephanie at BEGI today about the O2 bung location; they are building an S kit for me right now. She said that they were working on this issue last week and have a new location for the bung determined. If I remember correctly she said it would be at the 12 o'clock (vertical) position. I'll let you all know how it works out when I get my kit installed. |
I dont want to put my LC1 controller under the car and route my wires through the shift boot :(. Although I bet it would make for a cleaner bay.
Anyone have their LC1 controller under the hood, does the sensor reach the bung? |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 212803)
Figured I would ressurect this thread rather than start a new one.
I spoke with Stephanie at BEGI today about the O2 bung location; they are building an S kit for me right now. She said that they were working on this issue last week and have a new location for the bung determined. If I remember correctly she said it would be at the 12 o'clock (vertical) position. I'll let you all know how it works out when I get my kit installed. |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 212814)
I dont want to put my LC1 controller under the car and route my wires through the shift boot :(. Although I bet it would make for a cleaner bay.
Anyone have their LC1 controller under the hood, does the sensor reach the bung? http://jugrnot.com/IMG_0324.jpg If you look in the mess I've yet to clean up by where the coils are sitting, ziptied with 2 white ties to the brake booster tube is my LC1. Any further over and the sensor wire wouldn't reach, and supposedly the stock location is too close to the turbo for a wideband sensor. I hacked off the connector from an old o2 sensor off a miata and used the connector for plug and play on the Wideband, so I haven't decided yet if I'm going to tie the controller to the PPF and leave wire running under the hood to the factory harness, or if I'm going to come in behind the passenger seat somehow. Sure the hell can't go through under my center console cause theres already too many fat cables running under it and the damn thing hardly seats down as is. |
Yeah I was thinking about how I am going to route it as well. I think there is a little room left in the console, although with a trunk mounted 4-channel amp there are already a lot of cables in there for mine as well.
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I have been doing some thinking last night and its not really an inconvenience for me to have it go through the shifter boot, just afraid of leaving it under the car. My main concern is, if it is in the engine bay the controller will sit somewhere near the downpipe and the cable will most probably be contacting it and thats the flipside.
Would the sensor cable reach if the controller was behind the radio? Like really behind the radio because I have a din adapter with a pocket so it cant sit very far forward. |
Good question. I don't know, but I think I am going to start mounting my gauges soon so I'll let you know what I come up with. I plan to locate the O2 gauge and some others in the dash console above my single-DIN radio. There will be a lot of room behind the gauges for things like the controller.
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The bungs on my Turbo Tony are perfect.
If you mount the controller under the car it is pretty safe. If something got in there it would hit the trans and driveshaft too. You could maybe drill a couple small holes in the PPF and mount a sheet metal sheild on it or something to box in the controller. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 213002)
Good question. I don't know, but I think I am going to start mounting my gauges soon so I'll let you know what I come up with. I plan to locate the O2 gauge and some others in the dash console above my single-DIN radio. There will be a lot of room behind the gauges for things like the controller.
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Yeah I considered an a-pillar mount for that reason, better visibility of the gauges. But I really hate a-pillars in general; they just get in the way sight wise when cornering. So I do not want to add anything that makes it more obtrusive.
No a-pillars on a motorcycle; visibility is so much better. :) Plus I want to keep the car stealthy, and a dash mount or a-pillar mount will blow my cover. Lots of car theft in South Texas. There are ways of hiding them when mounted above the radio. |
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