WRX turbo info thread
#1
WRX turbo info thread
Since i'm using a WRX turbo in my build, and have seen a few people asking about it since i started investigating it, i'm starting a thread for info about it. not much to look at right now, except the compressor map in this post, but i'll be updating this as i do my build, and hopefully will also be able to answer any questions future kit-builders have as well.
compressor map
compressor map
#4
Driven both a 1.6 and a 1.8 with the WRX turbo, on an ETD manifold.... It's a great combo to work with the miata motor. Spools well, and seems to keep pulling to the top.
NOTE: It's a 3 bolt flange, so either a custom manifold, or adapter will be required.
This is with around 7 or 8 psi.....
Dave,
NOTE: It's a 3 bolt flange, so either a custom manifold, or adapter will be required.
This is with around 7 or 8 psi.....
Dave,
#6
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well its sort of designed to be basically a remote turbo, since it is so far downstream on the exhaust. Still, I will never understand why subaru used that flange for their turbo. Cheap little thing to replace though, you will find an endless supply of them for $100 or less on ebay all day long. BTW, i owned a wrx for about a year and tinkered a little on it.
#7
well its sort of designed to be basically a remote turbo, since it is so far downstream on the exhaust. Still, I will never understand why subaru used that flange for their turbo. Cheap little thing to replace though, you will find an endless supply of them for $100 or less on ebay all day long. BTW, i owned a wrx for about a year and tinkered a little on it.
the downpipe side is a lil tougher, though. The stock downpipe is a grade A craptastic piece. the flange more or less just covers over the wastegate flapper opening and creates what has got to the the worst flowing downpipe i've ever seen. the aftermarket upgrades are all "bellmouth" but they're expensive and cast, so they don't really make for a good diy chop-style experience like the manifold side flange does...
i'll have a decent writeup of what i do for a DP once i sort it out, though.
#10
When I built my WRX system, the outlet flange for the turbo was the easy part. My exhaust guy had them in stock (he did a lot of custom Subie stuff), unfortunately, he is no longer in business...
I made the inlet flange myself with a drill press, pretty easy really.
I'm pretty happy with it overall, and my setup (6psi) is faster than my buddies BRP M62 blower setup (7psi).
I made the inlet flange myself with a drill press, pretty easy really.
I'm pretty happy with it overall, and my setup (6psi) is faster than my buddies BRP M62 blower setup (7psi).
#11
no, I'm not saying they're ALL cast. Well, actually, i did. But i was over generalizing. Most of them are, however. The bellmouth and flange on the vast majority of them are cast (i haven't see a bellmouth DP that doesn't have a cast bellmouth/flange section yet, so feel free to enlighten everyone with a link or something of substance).
Karter, that's good to hear. I wonder if begi would be willing to offer a downpipe flanged for this...
#14
the best thing about the wrx turbo is that is designed to be efficient at high boost levels/moderatre cfm ....at 12 psi and fairly low CFM levels compared to a 2 liter the WRX turbo is a winner..quick spool and good efficiency at high boost...what more could you want. You can see that in the compressor map which is "tall and skinny" compared to other maps ive seen.....Oh and i used the older subaru"VF10" found in JDM Legacy/liberty GT turbos. will probably swap to a newer wrx turbo when it dies.
#15
nice productive post. thanks.
no, I'm not saying they're ALL cast. Well, actually, i did. But i was over generalizing. Most of them are, however. The bellmouth and flange on the vast majority of them are cast (i haven't see a bellmouth DP that doesn't have a cast bellmouth/flange section yet, so feel free to enlighten everyone with a link or something of substance).
no, I'm not saying they're ALL cast. Well, actually, i did. But i was over generalizing. Most of them are, however. The bellmouth and flange on the vast majority of them are cast (i haven't see a bellmouth DP that doesn't have a cast bellmouth/flange section yet, so feel free to enlighten everyone with a link or something of substance).
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ust&prodid=602
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...st&prodid=1020
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...st&prodid=2031
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...st&prodid=1321
This looks cast though.
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...st&prodid=1493
The flange shouldn't be hard to come by, hell most performance shops that deal with the WRX installations will have piles of stock downpipes lying around. One place was clearing all of their junk out about a year ago and you could get that stuff for damn near nothing. I've seen stock WRX turbos go for $50 as well. Another good source to get used WRX and STi turbos is www.jdmspecc4u.com , I got my aluminum control arms from them. Great prices and good guys to deal with. I guess they get whole, cut in half cars because they also offer interior junk.
#18
If you're going to hack up a downpipe and want the bellmouth I'd suggest hitting up ERZ. They're by far the cheapest non-used Suby exhaust manufacturer on the market. It looks like they started selling their wares on eBay, I never bought any because it kind of seemed like cheap rubbish to me. THey've since become a vendor on NASIOC.com and I don't think anyone has said anything bad about them yet.
Also, 4sfed5, the inherent handling dynamic of Subaru's is understeer. It's really not that hard to shove one into a curb. Too many people think all wheel drive is about sideways rally heroics and wicked 4 wheel burnout drifting. I personally know of at least three people who have totally their WRX's because of this false thinking and thinking all wheel drive will be their savior, and one of them died because of it. I've completely changed my suspension to neutralize the handling some for when I go charging through the canyons. I know I went WAY off topic here, but FYI I've done the following.
1. Prodrive springs on stock struts since they were engineered for them.
2. STi Aluminum control arms.
3. Group A aluminum endlinks.
4. Whiteline steering rack bushings.
5. Whiteline 22mm front and rear sway bars (incl. poly bar bushings).
NVH is significantly increased, handling MUCH sharper. However in corners the rear end can be unsettled by potholes into oversteer. THere's a particular corner down the street from me that I literally bounce the rear end around. Key is to stay on throttle, to go from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip you need throttle.
Also, 4sfed5, the inherent handling dynamic of Subaru's is understeer. It's really not that hard to shove one into a curb. Too many people think all wheel drive is about sideways rally heroics and wicked 4 wheel burnout drifting. I personally know of at least three people who have totally their WRX's because of this false thinking and thinking all wheel drive will be their savior, and one of them died because of it. I've completely changed my suspension to neutralize the handling some for when I go charging through the canyons. I know I went WAY off topic here, but FYI I've done the following.
1. Prodrive springs on stock struts since they were engineered for them.
2. STi Aluminum control arms.
3. Group A aluminum endlinks.
4. Whiteline steering rack bushings.
5. Whiteline 22mm front and rear sway bars (incl. poly bar bushings).
NVH is significantly increased, handling MUCH sharper. However in corners the rear end can be unsettled by potholes into oversteer. THere's a particular corner down the street from me that I literally bounce the rear end around. Key is to stay on throttle, to go from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip you need throttle.
#19
If you're going to hack up a downpipe and want the bellmouth I'd suggest hitting up ERZ. They're by far the cheapest non-used Suby exhaust manufacturer on the market. It looks like they started selling their wares on eBay, I never bought any because it kind of seemed like cheap rubbish to me. THey've since become a vendor on NASIOC.com and I don't think anyone has said anything bad about them yet.
Also, 4sfed5, the inherent handling dynamic of Subaru's is understeer. It's really not that hard to shove one into a curb. Too many people think all wheel drive is about sideways rally heroics and wicked 4 wheel burnout drifting. I personally know of at least three people who have totally their WRX's because of this false thinking and thinking all wheel drive will be their savior, and one of them died because of it. I've completely changed my suspension to neutralize the handling some for when I go charging through the canyons. I know I went WAY off topic here, but FYI I've done the following.
1. Prodrive springs on stock struts since they were engineered for them.
2. STi Aluminum control arms.
3. Group A aluminum endlinks.
4. Whiteline steering rack bushings.
5. Whiteline 22mm front and rear sway bars (incl. poly bar bushings).
NVH is significantly increased, handling MUCH sharper. However in corners the rear end can be unsettled by potholes into oversteer. THere's a particular corner down the street from me that I literally bounce the rear end around. Key is to stay on throttle, to go from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip you need throttle.
Also, 4sfed5, the inherent handling dynamic of Subaru's is understeer. It's really not that hard to shove one into a curb. Too many people think all wheel drive is about sideways rally heroics and wicked 4 wheel burnout drifting. I personally know of at least three people who have totally their WRX's because of this false thinking and thinking all wheel drive will be their savior, and one of them died because of it. I've completely changed my suspension to neutralize the handling some for when I go charging through the canyons. I know I went WAY off topic here, but FYI I've done the following.
1. Prodrive springs on stock struts since they were engineered for them.
2. STi Aluminum control arms.
3. Group A aluminum endlinks.
4. Whiteline steering rack bushings.
5. Whiteline 22mm front and rear sway bars (incl. poly bar bushings).
NVH is significantly increased, handling MUCH sharper. However in corners the rear end can be unsettled by potholes into oversteer. THere's a particular corner down the street from me that I literally bounce the rear end around. Key is to stay on throttle, to go from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip you need throttle.