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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-11-2006, 09:41 PM   #21
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OK, here's what I got. I bought some 1/8 short aluminum rivets, popped the nail out, and put it in there.

You can see the oil inlet is no smaller than the 4an line or the brass fitting.
When I tested the rivet on a spare oil line and fitting, it flattened out considerable when I put the wrench on it (guess that's why you use aluminum). I only got to drive it for about 15 minutes and it smoked a little in the beginning once it got hot (probably burning off residual)... so hopefully that does it.

On the other hand, I decided for my "leak" test drive to hook the turbo back up... and my wastegate flapper was stuck open (caught on something- think the Begi gas separator flange- inside the DP). I unbolted the DP and moved the flapper door back to reconnect the wastegate and broke a bolt off in the turbine housing. So, now I'm running on four bolts. No audible leaking, but something to fix next time I've got the turbo off... which might be sooner than later, because on my drive, the flapper door got stuck open and I had to drive a few miles home w/no boost. POOP!

You'll notice in my vbGarage that previously I'd routed the oil line across the firewall and through the brake hard-lines and into the inlet via a 90* brass fitting. For ease and simplicity of using the rivet, I left out the 90* fitting and now just go straight up the dipstick and over the top straight down on the inlet.
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Old 12-12-2006, 01:04 AM   #22
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I had a slightly different solution for the restrictor that I used in my setup. I found a bolt that was just slightly larger than the inside diameter of one of the oil fittings. I tapped the fitting out so that I could thread the bolt in. Then I drilled a 1/16 hole in the bolt, threaded it in tight and cut off the extra that was sticking out. Seems to work well.

If I had seen the rivet method though, I probably would have done that instead.... I suppose that you could also put JB weld into a fitting and then drill that out.
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Old 12-12-2006, 01:15 AM   #23
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Nice pictures of the rivet method. Starsky's bolt method is easy enough and would give you the ability to use whatever hole size you wanted but not as simple as just putting in a rivet. I would never put JB Weld in a fitting and drill it out, the oil pressure is high enough that I wouldn't trust anything like that in my oil system. Let alone before the turbo where it could possible break apart and get inside the bearing housing. Nice pictures Sam hope that broken bolt comes out easy enough for you. Interested in seeing if the rivet stops your smoking or not.
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Old 12-12-2006, 07:50 AM   #24
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Interesting with the rivet. I use an FM oil line kit, its a -3 and they told me no restrictor was needed. I use one anyway, the same .035 restrictor from ATP, I drilled it out to something, but just used a bit I had lying around, so its not that small. 1mm maybe. No problems yet.
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:43 PM   #25
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would it be fine to put the restrictor down closer to my block????
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Old 06-24-2007, 12:25 AM   #26
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Does a Greddy Turbo standard kit need a restrictor ?
I've had my Greddy installed for....gawd...over 2 years or so with no oil burning/smoke problems.
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Old 06-24-2007, 05:24 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drftem View Post
would it be fine to put the restrictor down closer to my block????

You wouldn't want to. It would restrict flow to the feed line, thus the line would feed slower than normal leaving your turbo without oil(possibly) upon startup. You need to do it at the turbo.


Most -3AN feed lines don't need require a restrictor.

The stock greddy shouldn't need one. I wouldn't use a restrictor on a turbo unless it smoked.
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Old 06-24-2007, 12:13 PM   #28
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ok so how can i install the poprivet restrictor if i have a banjo fitting at the turbo? would it be fine to drop it in with the bolt?????
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:25 PM   #29
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You shouldn't use a restrictor on the Greddy kit. The turbo is oil cooled/lubricated. The oil is the primary coolant of the CHRA and require significantly more oil than an Oil/Water turbo.
I'm not sure how you'd do it with a banjo bolt. There shouldn't be any problem using the restrictor at the block though. Also, it's just as easy to spend $10 for the parts to get a 90* fitting instead of the banjo.
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:59 PM   #30
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ok so what should i do then??? my greddy has been rebuilt twice and has lasted about a month has verry little shaft play and has oil in the exhaust now.....
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Old 06-24-2007, 09:48 PM   #31
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How are your PCV ports routed?
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Old 06-25-2007, 10:09 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
OK, here's what I got. I bought some 1/8 short aluminum rivets, popped the nail out, and put it in there.

You can see the oil inlet is no smaller than the 4an line or the brass fitting.
When I tested the rivet on a spare oil line and fitting, it flattened out considerable when I put the wrench on it (guess that's why you use aluminum). I only got to drive it for about 15 minutes and it smoked a little in the beginning once it got hot (probably burning off residual)... so hopefully that does it.

On the other hand, I decided for my "leak" test drive to hook the turbo back up... and my wastegate flapper was stuck open (caught on something- think the Begi gas separator flange- inside the DP). I unbolted the DP and moved the flapper door back to reconnect the wastegate and broke a bolt off in the turbine housing. So, now I'm running on four bolts. No audible leaking, but something to fix next time I've got the turbo off... which might be sooner than later, because on my drive, the flapper door got stuck open and I had to drive a few miles home w/no boost. POOP!

You'll notice in my vbGarage that previously I'd routed the oil line across the firewall and through the brake hard-lines and into the inlet via a 90* brass fitting. For ease and simplicity of using the rivet, I left out the 90* fitting and now just go straight up the dipstick and over the top straight down on the inlet.



This is very similar to what I use, but I use Nitrous jets. They come in all sorts of sizes, I used a .032 I think on my GT28R.

I use nothing on my journal bearing turbos, been lucky with no problems.

I've always used 4AN lines cause they are easier to find fittings for.
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:53 AM   #33
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pcv is routed norm and i have the 1.6turbo one in there from the capri/323 turbo
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