samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Unless you're into bling, I can't see a worthwhile advantage to braided vs. non for the return line. You can't see it in my picture, but I have a stock DSM return hardline. It's a pipe that's flanged on both ends (one end on the turbo and the other flange bolts to the pan) but I've cut off the pan flange and just stuck the 5/8" hose on there. That gets my hose far enough away from the CHRA that I'm not worried about heat.

I also have the Begi manifold which puts the turbo fairly low, and I don't have AC or PS, so it's about a 8" straight shot right into the pan.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Meh. I just looked at the prices for -10AN. $45 for the hose vs. $16 for two feet of high-temp silicone from Kelly at ATP. I think I can live without.

Stainless feed line, -3AN, no restrictor, 24" long
5/8" high-temp silicone return hose, buy 2 feet and cut it down
5/16 or 3/8" water lines

mkrazit

iTrader: (1)

Savington: Though a little more expensive than heater hose, another option would be 5/16" fuel injection hose for your turbo coolant lines. Not sure what kind of coolant fittings you have, but my RHB5 has 1/4"NPT to 5/16" barb fittings with the fuel injection hose routed to the nipple on the bottom of the thermostat and down between the water pump pulley and PS pulley (as per installation instructions for the kit).

It's a bit cruder and lower cost than AN fittings and lines for coolant but gets the job done with no leaks.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

What benefits are there to fuel injector hose vs. heater hose? More pressure? I'm going to wrap the water lines in thermo-sleeves so I'm not terribly worried about radiant heat from the turbo.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

As far as I know most hose designed for use on an engine can take quite a bit of heat. How hot does the outlet water temp off the turbo get? I used regular 5/16"" fuel line for my water lines for over a year and the hose went back in my box of parts because it's still good. =) I now have stainless braided hose with AN's at the turbo with clamps at the t-stat lines but I would like to find a better solution there because braided line is hard to clamp. Maybe a compression to AN type fitting? Or maybe drill/tap the t-stat housing for AN fittings? That actually sounds like a good idea there... I'll get back on that. I need to figure out where the oil cooler line can dump back in since one of the t-stat lines is a T I believe.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Bump with one last question. I've got the oil temp gauge sender in my drainplug right now, but I don't think it's very accurate. It starts off at 145 every day, drops to 140, and it really doesn't come up for quite a while. I think I need to get it more into the oil flow to get an accurate reading. I was thinking of using a -3AN to 1/8NPT female tee fitting in the oil feed line to house the oil temp sender. Anything wrong with that?

Using this part:

http://www.paragonperformance.com/ADPTRS4.html part number PP-2881

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Long as you did it at the block and not at the turbo i think it would be alright.
Seems you would get more accurate readings with larger variations in temperature versus the slow reaction you're getting in the oil pan.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

SAVINGTON, LISTEN TO ME!!!
Go pay a visit to this shop: http://www.rbisj.com/
Print out some good resolution pics of your engine bay and just show them what you're trying to engineer. They'll point you in the right direction and probably have a better idea for how to go about routing **** and they'll know for sure exactly what temps/pressures certain hose is good for and what's best for what you're trying to do.

You wouldn't believe the crazy **** I came up with to try and make things work. One visit to Hampton Rubber Supply saved me HOURS of work... susequent trips for other small projects saved me even more time and pain. The guys at HRS know my face now and always want to know how the car is.

Check out this link if the first one isn't close enough to you.
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um...e-results&cd=1

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I live 15 minutes from Royal Brass. I'm getting my water lines and fittings from them, and I'm going to copy your setup for the oil feed line and use Braineack's setup for the oil return line.

I posted the line setup in my build thread. If you think I can get a better price at Royal Brass vs. Summit, ATP, and Paragon Performance, let me know.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

For future archive use:

Oil feed line:
(note: if you don't want to run a oil temp gauge, replace the double-female 90 with a male-female 90 and ditch the tee fitting.)

1 M10x1.50 male to -3AN male fitting, ParagonPerformance.com, $17.50
1 90° -3AN female to -3AN female fitting, ANPlumbing.com, $12.25
1 -3AN male/-3AN male/1/8"NPT female tee fitting (for use with oil temperature sensor), ParagonPerformance.com, $14.63
1 24" Stainless Steel oil feed line, -3AN, double female fittings, Summit Racing, $12.88
1. 90° -3AN male to -3AN female fitting
1 -3AN male to 7/16-24 inverted flare male fitting (it's a 7/16s on a T25, it may vary on your turbo)

$77.81 before tax/shipping without the tee for the oil temp sender, $87.47 with the tee fitting for the oil temp sender. If you can do it cheaper, let me know by all means.

Return line is a turbo drain-sized fitting to a 5/8" barb, high-temp silicone hose (buy 24" and cut it down, according to Braineack), and then a 5/8" barb to 1/2"NPT in the oil pan. Drill the oil pan with a 23/32" bit.

Water lines are standard 5/16" heater hose, sleeved with heat-resistant thermal sleeving available from Summit Racing.