Over The Radiator Intercooler Setup 99 NB - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-13-2007, 04:00 PM   #21
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 464
Total Cats: 0
Default


PAT! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 04:03 PM   #22
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
 
cjernigan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,147
Total Cats: 6
Default

Holy silicone couplers. Looks better than a bunch of homebrew birdshit fluxcore welds though. Nice
cjernigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 05:38 PM   #23
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 464
Total Cats: 0
Default

I have a wharehouse of the stuff available... free. Can't beat that with a stick.
PAT! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 05:47 PM   #24
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,868
Total Cats: 66
Default

So how long have you been running a unthrottled s/c for??

Try using a larger nipple for the bypass signal line, it makes a nice difference..... it closes the bypass faster when stabbing the throttle
Doppelgänger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 06:07 PM   #25
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
nester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 812
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki047 View Post
two reasons to like over the rad.

A) safer for tubing, really nothing exposed to road hazards (cept for the IC but thats always the case)
B) less connections, mine is 4 couplings total (yes you can do it around the rad, but its harder longer)
C) more effcient, less pressure loss
D) less likely to absorb heat from engine

A) Never heard of anyone putting a hole in a intercooler pipe from road debris.

B) My around the radiator setup had only 4 couplers (compressor outlet to pipe, pipe to i/c, i/c to pipe, pipe to t/b.

C) Maybe, but probably not noticeable in the real world

D) Maybe, but probably not noticeable in the real world
nester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 06:12 PM   #26
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Loki047's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,145
Total Cats: 0
Default

A) ive seen people dent piping (greater pressure drop)

B) Right but its easier with less places to weld (like i said its possible but harder and longer) Whats with people not reading posts?

C) Look up WOT old setup (and its for sure, measurable yes)

D) Not according to BEGI/FM (why FM switch to the silicon tubing supposedly)
Loki047 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 06:17 PM   #27
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
nester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 812
Total Cats: 0
Default

k.
nester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 07:37 PM   #28
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto Area, Ontario
Posts: 139
Total Cats: 29
Default

Quote:
Someone on CR.net did a great over-the-rad. kit... said it was pretty easy
seems like there is more room for this on the 99+

Quote:
homebrew birdshit fluxcore welds
these are the best welds...the birdshit washes off, the flux gets burned off, leaving "homebrew welds"...see my bay

Name:  Picture022.jpg
Views: 25
Size:  116.0 KB
oreo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 10:47 PM   #29
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Loki047's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,145
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nester View Post
k.
yeah whatever
Loki047 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 11:22 PM   #30
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
nester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 812
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oreo View Post
seems like there is more room for this on the 99+


these are the best welds...the birdshit washes off, the flux gets burned off, leaving "homebrew welds"...see my bay

I wouldn't stress over the welds. Setup looks good.
nester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 11:58 PM   #31
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
patsmx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 8,797
Total Cats: 248
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oreo View Post
seems like there is more room for this on the 99+


these are the best welds...the birdshit washes off, the flux gets burned off, leaving "homebrew welds"...see my bay
Are you running an 8 rib setup? Did you make that tensioner assembly? What about the crank pulley?

Your setup looks nice. I'm aiming for something similar, but with a smaller blower (damn it boy that bitch is big!)
patsmx5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 10:22 AM   #32
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 464
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DropTopDrifter View Post
So how long have you been running a unthrottled s/c for??

Try using a larger nipple for the bypass signal line, it makes a nice difference..... it closes the bypass faster when stabbing the throttle
I just ran it for a few weeks. After installing the IC (which is when I went unthrottled) I increased my timing 3 degrees, within hours my clutch started slipping. So I sold all the SC stuff and started to assemble my turbo crap.
PAT! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2007, 07:33 PM   #33
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 29
Total Cats: 0
Default

Here's the setup Corky built for me. He designed it for use with the hood latch but I use hood pins.

Having had this one for several years, I personally would recommend the approach Corky now uses on his kits. The aluminum tube exiting down from the compressor and then entering the intercooler on the driver's side of the intercooler actually sheds approx 10-12 degrees of temperature from the compressed air before it even reaches the intercooler.

FWIW.

Name:  intercooler.jpg
Views: 172
Size:  110.9 KB
BEGITechRep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2007, 08:07 PM   #34
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Loki047's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,145
Total Cats: 0
Default

Did you guys check anything with pressure drop?

What about temp gain coming back up the other side?

Entering Air Temps? Leaving compressor temps?
Loki047 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2007, 03:00 AM   #35
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 88
Total Cats: 0
Default

You may find that that intercooler is too wide. Measure the distance between the rad supports and make sure that the intercooler outlets will clear in between.

I chose a narrower intercooler that lines up real well with the width between the turbo and throttle body making it reall easy to fabricate the pipes.

Here'e mine:
retro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2007, 12:15 PM   #36
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
patsmx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 8,797
Total Cats: 248
Default

yea IC will put the pipes going up where the current readiator supports are. That's not a problem though, as I'll have to make new ones anyway to move the radiator back. I need a good size IC so going smaller isn't gonna happen.
patsmx5 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 59 12-15-2017 09:00 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 08:18 PM
Expected intake temps on the track? tazswing Race Prep 20 10-03-2015 12:04 PM
Time to start learning and play with tuning The Gleas MEGAsquirt 3 10-01-2015 10:30 AM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:04 PM.