Got a few small off-the-wall questions for you guys as I'm turboing my car (finally!). Just a few concerns. Sorry if half of them are simple and obvious. I just need some answers quick.

Can I reuse the factory pressure plate bolts with my ACT Extreme clutch going on the factory flywheel? Or should I just get new ones? I know to chase the threads and lock-tite them.

Which way does the clutch disk go on?

Yall use regular high temp grease on the input shaft of the transmission when changing the clutch right?

Does everybody cut the "shelf" area to gain clearance for the down pipe? I measure ~6" from the center of the manifold to the shelf area where the down pipe will be. I might get 7" if I cut it some. But it looks like I need 8" unless I make the 3" bend a tighter CLR. Also I could angle the down pipe toward the engine a bit, and gain clearance around the shelf area, but that moves it toward the heater core hoses...

Guessing yall bend the heater core hard lines for clearance as well? How? I'm afraid I'm gonna fold them trying. They're literally pointing the wrong way. What about the hard line that snaps in the water pump? It would be nice if it pointed "up" instead of "up and toward the down pipe area".

Is there anything I can buy locally (ie-autozone, lowes, etc) to insulate the heater core hoses?

Remove alternator brace?

Power steering fluid is just dextron II/III or equivalent, right? Looks red to me.

NOTE to make reading all that worthwhile: Locktite the 4 little bolts that go into the crank pulley. I've even told people on this board to do it. But I didn't. Just removed them and they weren't near as tight as I originally put them. No damage, but they DID vibrate loose some.

Thanks for any help

Patrick

 

Reuse the bolts.

Side with springs points toward you when looking at it.

Yes

No one cuts the shelf.

Put the holed tab on the lower heater core line onto the stud it normally bolts to, and put a nut over it to secure it. This will hold it firmly. Then grab a 2x4 and position the lower end against the subframe and use it as a lever to bend the heater core hard line back. Works everytime, and if I remember correctly used to be/is in either FM or BEGI's installation instructions.

I never had to insulate anything on mine, go figure. I would order something made for this application unless someone else has a better idea.

Why would you remove the alternator brace? Its on the other side of the motor....

No clue on power steering fluid, you need to depower you rack you *****!

My pulley never came loose, you must have 2 limp wrists homo :P

 

what neo said, except I use the DEI brand reflective insulation sleeves. they're fiberglass with a shiny silver foil on the outside. it'd suck to blow a hose.

and i think I used generic "power steering fluid" and it works fine. i know you dont use ATF like hondas or whatever.

GET TO WORK!

 

congradulations pat. take lots of pics, I might be next

 

+1 on using reflective tape or wrap to wrap your heater lines. Some here have not done so and so far not reported problems but wouldn't it suck to not be so lucky when you could have avoided the headache of replacing those hoses with such a cheap thing?

As to cutting the shelf, I've seen it done, but it is not popular to do so. The engine bay is structural and one cut will effect its overall rigidity. If you do cut out some space to allow a straighter downpipe, you need to weld the seam where you cut - that shelf is several layers of steel sandwiched together, so welding their exposed ends will keep the rigidity you need in that shelf.

-Ryan

 

Can I reuse the factory pressure plate bolts with my ACT Extreme clutch going on the factory flywheel?

Sure. They're in a relatively low-stress environment.

Which way does the clutch disk go on?

With the flywheel side facing towards the flywheel.

Yall use regular high temp grease on the input shaft of the transmission when changing the clutch right?

Whatever ya got.

Does everybody cut the "shelf" area to gain clearance for the down pipe?

I've heard of cutting it to clear the turbo, but never the DP. Depends on which manifold you've got, I guess.

Guessing yall bend the heater core hard lines for clearance as well?

Dear God, no. Those things are quite fragile. Them, and the union between them and the core. WTF kind of manifold and DP do you have where you're having all these fitment issues?

Is there anything I can buy locally (ie-autozone, lowes, etc) to insulate the heater core hoses?

Depends on what's local. I use a lot of This Stuff and This Stuff under the hood. For the heater hoses, you need to get it considerably oversize to clear the tight bends.

Remove alternator brace?

Huh? A lot of us pull the cast aluminum intake manifold brace, but there's nothing attached to the alternator (that I'm aware of) that isn't really important.

Power steering fluid is just dextron II/III or equivalent, right? Looks red to me.

Sayeth the FSM:Seems pretty serious to me.

 

on the clutch disk, one side is flat, the other sticks out. the flat side is the flywheel side. looks like everything else was answered.

 

Which way does the clutch disk go on? <--------u know what, iv wondered this for years

 

 

Thanks everybody for the answers.

Got the motor out, and pan off. Drivers side motor mount is torn almost in two, passengers side is barely showing signs of thinking about tearing. Are they they same? Can't buy them locally :( I'm gonna epoxy the broken on and probably put it on the passengers side, and the passengers side one on the drivers side.

Oh, and the manifold is a FM T2 manifold I mutallated into a T3 version. The turbo is big, and something nobody here uses (GT3271) and the downpipe will be made by me.

 

Here's an image that shows the orientation of all the parts:

You can see in it the protrusion around the center that bryantaylor refers to.

 

Get a new set of mounts or modify a set of hockey pucks before any glueing.

 

I've seen the back shelf cut for a downpipe. One of Paul's cars has that done.

 

Are the drivers and passengers side motor mounts different? Cause I switched them around when I had the engine out (as mentioned above and nobody said anything) and the ******* are 1/4" too far forward to let the engine drop down into the frame.

**** I'm pissed right now.

 

The mounts are the same, the brackets are different.

 

Pics Pat, Pics

 

I had to mess with putting my motor back in for a solid 20-30 min till a friend suggested throwing the mounts into the car. Bolted them down loosely and fitted the motor to the mounts, worked like a charm.

 

"worked like a charm"

 

PROBLEM: The oil drain flange thingy bolts to the turbo. It didn't come with a gasket so I made one, from rubber/cork stuff that's designed to make oil pan and valve cover gaskets. I also used permatex tacky to glue it on, and it's leaking. :( So is there any easy way to fix this without order/waiting for a $2 gasket? Would .010" copper gasket work?

The damn gasket gets too thin near the edges, and it's just squished out I believe. Needs a more rigid gasket I suppose.

Any advice is appreciated. So far, this oil leak is the only hickup, so overall, I'm happy.

 

Copper will work. If you can go a little thicker it might be better(like 020") and leave off the other stuff.