Is it possible to cap the oil drain fitting?
I am in the process of prepping a motor to put in. It will be naturally aspirated for a few months then go turbo. I want to tap the oil pan while it is out but won't be ready to put a drain hose on. Can I use an NPT plug? Or a rubber hose cap over the hose barb?
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My setup doesn't use a rubber hose with a barbed fitting.
Do yourself a favor and assemble a braided setup with AN fittings. |
And can I cap an AN line? I'm taping the pan for 3/8th NPT, what size AN should I use?
Edit: Google revealed plenty of AN plugs so I just need a plug and a 3/8npt to AN adaptor. |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1179516)
And can I cap an AN line? I'm taping the pan for 3/8th NPT, what size AN should I use?
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Perfect. That's the answer I needed.
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yep, done that before, no issues.
proceed :) |
Is the general consensus here to use jb weld when sealing it, or Teflon paste. I know Teflon tape is frowned upon, but I also don't like the idea of unlubricated NPT threads.
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I screw in my fitting, then lather jbweld all around the threads of the fitting. The FM manual says to apply a little jbweld to the threads and then screw it in and let it dry.
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Thirdgen did you use an angle AN fitting or a straight fitting.
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Straight fitting. I think I used -10 if I remember right.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1179528)
I screw in my fitting, then lather jbweld all around the threads of the fitting. The FM manual says to apply a little jbweld to the threads and then screw it in and let it dry.
If you've got the motor out, the right answer is to TIG a weld-in NPT bung. --Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1179563)
I found that the JB weld cracked after a couple years.
If you've got the motor out, the right answer is to TIG a weld-in NPT bung. --Ian Just an FYI. Yes, I do agree with welding the fitting in though, only cause 1) "while motor is out", and 2) it's a metal to metal application, so why use an epoxy weld? They do make fittings that aren't threaded...it just has a little nipple on that you drill a hole, insert the fitting, weld. That's the real way to do it. However, myself and 99% of mt.net used jb weld and screwed our fittings in without any issues for years. |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1179563)
weld-in NPT bung.
--Ian |
Yes, the pan is cast aluminum. That's why you buy one of these and take it to a pro TIG welder:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220072 That's what I'm doing right now -- the motor is out of the car for a rebuild, and I'm tired of having the entire bottom of the car covered in oil leaking from this fitting. I thought about trying to DIY the welding with the spoolgun for my Miller 211, but welding cast aluminum oil pans is supposed to be a real bitch due to the pores having soaked up oil. Everyone says this is a job for a pro, and I'm definitely not that good with a welder. :) --Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1179563)
I found that the JB weld cracked after a couple years.
If you've got the motor out, the right answer is to TIG a weld-in NPT bung. --Ian |
Track speed welded in a 1/2" NPT bung for my pan for the oil drain. I ran it for break in with a plug in it then added my NPT to AN fitting after that when I added the turbo. I later added my own 1/8" NPT bung for my oil temp sender. That summit bung is surprisingly cheap. I didnt even think to check there when I bought my 1/8" bung I just went with a 1/2 coupling from mcmaster.
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With the motor out, you could weld in a ORB port bung like this one. It gets rid of the NTP threads and it it ever leaks just change the o-ring.
-10 AN Weld Bung, Female O Ring Boss ORB - Sweet Performance Products, Inc - (Powered by CubeCart) |
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