aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I am in the process of prepping a motor to put in. It will be naturally aspirated for a few months then go turbo. I want to tap the oil pan while it is out but won't be ready to put a drain hose on. Can I use an NPT plug? Or a rubber hose cap over the hose barb?

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

My setup doesn't use a rubber hose with a barbed fitting.
Do yourself a favor and assemble a braided setup with AN fittings.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

And can I cap an AN line? I'm taping the pan for 3/8th NPT, what size AN should I use?

Edit: Google revealed plenty of AN plugs so I just need a plug and a 3/8npt to AN adaptor.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

3/8th NPT is the correct way to tap the pan. I picked up some 3/8th NPT to -8AN fittings from my local hydraulic shop. I also picked up a cap for the fitting that screws on. There is no issue running it capped.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Perfect. That's the answer I needed.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

yep, done that before, no issues.

proceed

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Is the general consensus here to use jb weld when sealing it, or Teflon paste. I know Teflon tape is frowned upon, but I also don't like the idea of unlubricated NPT threads.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I screw in my fitting, then lather jbweld all around the threads of the fitting. The FM manual says to apply a little jbweld to the threads and then screw it in and let it dry.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Thirdgen did you use an angle AN fitting or a straight fitting.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Straight fitting. I think I used -10 if I remember right.

codrus

I found that the JB weld cracked after a couple years.

If you've got the motor out, the right answer is to TIG a weld-in NPT bung.

--Ian

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Isn't the pan cast aluminum? I don't think it's steel. If that's the case, you can't put a steel fitting in an aluminum pan and weld it. It has to be the same material. They do make AN fittings in aluminum, but in my experiences welding aluminum sucks. Especially welding a hard fitting to soft cast.
Just an FYI.
Yes, I do agree with welding the fitting in though, only cause 1) "while motor is out", and 2) it's a metal to metal application, so why use an epoxy weld?
They do make fittings that aren't threaded...it just has a little nipple on that you drill a hole, insert the fitting, weld. That's the real way to do it. However, myself and 99% of mt.net used jb weld and screwed our fittings in without any issues for years.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Yeah that. I read too fast and thought you meant screw in a fitting then weld it.

codrus

Yes, the pan is cast aluminum. That's why you buy one of these and take it to a pro TIG welder:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220072

That's what I'm doing right now -- the motor is out of the car for a rebuild, and I'm tired of having the entire bottom of the car covered in oil leaking from this fitting. I thought about trying to DIY the welding with the spoolgun for my Miller 211, but welding cast aluminum oil pans is supposed to be a real bitch due to the pores having soaked up oil. Everyone says this is a job for a pro, and I'm definitely not that good with a welder.

--Ian

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I agree that if the motor is out, then TIG welding it in is the correct way to do it. With the motor in the car, I will deal with putting on more jbweld if it ever cracks and leaks.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Track speed welded in a 1/2" NPT bung for my pan for the oil drain. I ran it for break in with a plug in it then added my NPT to AN fitting after that when I added the turbo. I later added my own 1/8" NPT bung for my oil temp sender. That summit bung is surprisingly cheap. I didnt even think to check there when I bought my 1/8" bung I just went with a 1/2 coupling from mcmaster.

skou

iTrader: (42)

With the motor out, you could weld in a ORB port bung like this one. It gets rid of the NTP threads and it it ever leaks just change the o-ring.

-10 AN Weld Bung, Female O Ring Boss ORB - Sweet Performance Products, Inc - (Powered by CubeCart)