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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-20-2008, 01:20 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
yep, if i wasn't so cheap I'd get the blanket over anything else. The bowser shield is a similar approach.

has anyone shown how to use that blanket with an internal wastegate? i assume you have to cut it into 2 pieces and use some steel wire to keep it snug?
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Old 02-20-2008, 02:08 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Kenny View Post
Once I had a closer look...
That piece does more that you think - it's the top to the front end "box" that helps reduce twist on the chassis. I don't think you're car will fall apart, but consider that most add bracing to the car to improve it's handling, you're probably at a deficit now.

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m2cupcar: With that vent wont rain and leaves and small animals get into the engine?
Nope, my compressor wheel chops up the leaves pretty well, and the turbine turns the rain to steam before it can get inside my engine. Of course I'm totally vulnerable to the small animals since I don't have a belly pan (under tray). I guess I've been fortunate so far.

tek- I've seen those blankets on internal wg turbos. The edge just sort of spreads over the gate housing. I'd use the stainless version of safety wire to tie tight (lashing wire).
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Old 02-20-2008, 03:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
That piece does more that you think - it's the top to the front end "box" that helps reduce twist on the chassis. I don't think you're car will fall apart, but consider that most add bracing to the car to improve it's handling, you're probably at a deficit now.
I do not plan to race but adding extra support at this point is easier so it sounds like a reasonable plan. I think I will try both an upper and lower brace around the pipes, might be able to make it look pretty and hold the pipes in place as well. Thanks for the input.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:34 PM   #24
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Found a turbo blanket that is made for smaller turbos and has a cut out for an internal wastegate!

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category60_1.htm

pretty damn expensive though...
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:36 PM   #25
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Guess I'll throw in my 2 yen.

The Greddy manifold puts the turbo higher up and further back than most, so it's hard to work with in terms of building a shield that gives full coverage and yet clears the brake system, heater hoses, etc.

I'm now on Rev 3.5 of the heatshield- revs 1 and 2 cracked, Rev 3 was an experiment in overkill, but it worked so I've now finished it. It is a half-cube, which fully covers the top, and gives about 75% coverage of the back and outboard sides of the turbine. The part which bolts to the valve cover is a piece of 3/16" thick hot-rolled steel L-channel, the "main" piece (top and outboard side) is 16ga sheet steel, and the back piece which is cut to fit around the downpipe is 18ga sheet steel.

Additionally, this one is semi-modular. The riveted construction gives it some flex, and allows me to replace any part which cracks more easily then rebuilding the whole damn thing from scratch each time. In practice, loosening of the rivets themselves seems to be the most common failure point, which is actually nice because they're easy to replace.

A shot from the inside. It's not y8s' gold foil, but rather Thermo-Tec insulating mat which consists of fiberglass sandwiched between mylar and aluminum foil. A few pieces of aluminum riveted here and there hold the mat in place. After a normal drive, the outside of the shield is warm, but you can put your hand on it.




The cracking problem with Revs 1 and 2 was due to vibration, and the length and weight of the thing. Rev 3 incorporates a piece which is held to the turbo with one of the downpipe bolts and supports the outer end of the shield. Here's the support piece installed:





A shot of the installed heatshield, from the side. Note the two bolts on top, which hold the shield to the support piece. The extra metal bar under the bolts is basically a load-spreader made from 1/8" thick flat bar stock, as this is the point at which rev 2 failed:





Same shot, from the front. The finish on the outside is Dupli-Color "High Heat, with Ceramic" paint. Pretty much worthless on downpipes, but good for this sort of thing.


Last edited by Joe Perez; 03-12-2008 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:47 PM   #26
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Nice work The vertical brace coming off of the turbine housing will make a big difference for support.
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Old 03-12-2008, 03:15 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Guess I'll throw in my 2 yen.

Joe I keep getting more and more impressed with your workmanship and attention to detail.

Last edited by cjernigan; 03-13-2008 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:13 PM   #28
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jeezus joe, talk about going all out on a heatshield. i am impressed!
nicest one i have seen so far...i just may duplicate the idea...dont tell anyone lol

great work
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:15 PM   #29
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I don't see what it can do that a 50 year old license plate with shiny aluminum tape can't do.

j/k, that looks really well done
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:23 PM   #30
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thats very very nice! i had the same plan, putting some heat reflecting material on the inside of a heat shield, but im too lazy and went with the FM heatshield and some adhesive heat reflecting material from thermotec...
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:59 PM   #31
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This is not a DIY job, it came with my Cartech IHI setup. Nice casting bolts to the 2 bolts in the side of the head, were the engine lift tab goes.
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:17 PM   #32
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Another license Plate Heat shield FTW!!! I lined the bottom of the intake with the heat wrap blanket that comes with the greddy kit. Also note the OlderGuy Tuning Greddy AFM Delete Intake!

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Old 03-13-2008, 10:08 PM   #33
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DAMN maybe i should switch to a smaller turbo, mine has to be a good 3" bigger in diameter than yours mike
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:08 PM   #34
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An important lesson has been learned. The blanketing material that I used was Thermo-Tec's "Cool-It Mat", which Summit said was good for up to 2,000. The directions for the product state that the mylar side is to be placed facing the heat source, and the aluminum side away. When the heat source in question happens to be a turbocharger, these directions are wrong. After just a few days' worth of casual driving, the mylar has melted and disintegrated in several places:



I've re-done it with the foil side facing out, and we'll see how that fares. I probably should have used the "Aluminized Heat Barrier" instead, which is actually specified for use near manifolds. It's much more expensive however, $79 for 36" x 40", vs $28 for 24" x 48". The Cool-It Mat happened to be laying around from a previous project, and I thought I'd give it a shot. We need a "Fail" smiley...
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:37 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
yep, if i wasn't so cheap I'd get the blanket over anything else. The bowser shield is a similar approach.
Whats a bowser shield?

How bad would it be to cut a slit in the turbo blanket for the actuator rod?

[email protected] says his blankets fit small turbos, so thats a good thing.

Last edited by Saml01; 03-15-2008 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 03-15-2008, 03:05 PM   #36
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bowser shield is from flyinmiata
http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...20560%20%20NDP

how do you hold the blanket in place after you make a cut?
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:20 PM   #37
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^ what do you mean?
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:48 PM   #38
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Im thinking youd have to cut the whole blanket to make it fit under the wastegate arm....no?
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:52 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
An important lesson has been learned. The blanketing material that I used was Thermo-Tec's "Cool-It Mat", which Summit said was good for up to 2,000. The directions for the product state that the mylar side is to be placed facing the heat source, and the aluminum side away. When the heat source in question happens to be a turbocharger, these directions are wrong. After just a few days' worth of casual driving, the mylar has melted and disintegrated in several places:



I've re-done it with the foil side facing out, and we'll see how that fares. I probably should have used the "Aluminized Heat Barrier" instead, which is actually specified for use near manifolds. It's much more expensive however, $79 for 36" x 40", vs $28 for 24" x 48". The Cool-It Mat happened to be laying around from a previous project, and I thought I'd give it a shot. We need a "Fail" smiley...
I wonder if you put a thin(16-18ga) aluminum on the turbo side if that would keep it from burning and help to keep in the heat. That way your holding the heat into the turbo area and helping to keep everything else at normal temps.
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:55 PM   #40
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Nah dude, just a hole for the arm. Put it on with the arm off the flapper then put the arm on the flapper afterwards.
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