Precision Turbos?
 

I did some some searching but could not find much on people using precision turbos. Does anyone know of a manifold that will bolt up to a precision turbo? (Not a custom manifold) I know most people are big on Garrett turbos, but i was looking around and found that some precision turbos are rated about the same horsepower but cost a good amount less. Any information on precision turbos would be appreciated, or if anyone is using where did you get a manifold?

They make big turbos that range from 450hp and up.
The average turbo miata usually runs a small garrett with a t2 footprint and rated 200-300hp. Otherwise nothing wrong with precision. If you're aiming for big power its really just a personal preference: borgwarner, garrett, precision, holset, etc etc.

Ok thanks, my goal is hopefully to have around 250whp, so a precision is not the turbo for me.

A Garrett 2560 is the turbo for you.

That is the main one I am looking at, I am either going to go with the begi S3 kit, or make my own with a Garrett 2560, I haven't decided yet

If you're thinking about buying a full begi s3 kit, you should look at the setup I have for sale. It is a complete turbo setup, with a efr turbo that spools just as fast as a 2560 but has much more headroom for the future.

LOL@you advertising in every other thread:giggle:
it is a sweet setup though.

Lol I stop that now. I just saw a guy about to maybe drop 3.5k on a begi setup and wanted to let him know what else is out there.

End thread jack.

Thanks for the offer, it sounds like a great setup but a little more than I am looking for. I know this is completely off topic but is there a sticky that contains basically everything to know about turbos? Like what the A/R is and what it means, what the trim is and how it is found, max flow fate explained, compressor wheel size explained etc.....

yes. google it. there are literally hundreds of threads all over the web where it is discussed in great detail.

It is a book called Maximum Boost and it is by Corky Bell. If you do not have it and have not read it then you need to stop everything you are thinking about and buy it and read it. Then come back and ask questions.

Just ordered it off amazon :)

Start here and read forward:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...rbo_tech_basic

Precision does make a t2 turbo now, i was playin with it at the PRI show, the guy said it was capable of 500whp and was on par with the garret gtx28r. But typically precision is known for their larger turbos, anyone looking fr over 300whp should at least keep precision in mind, they have good prices and quality turbos.

Your turbo selection should be based off two facts,

how much horsepower you want, and what you plan to do with the car. Although I cant comment on the smaller turbos people are suggesting, I can say for a 250 horsepower goal, I dont think spending 1000 dollars on a small precision unit is really a wise choice. I would also not waste money on ball bearing or billet turbos in this size either, as the added "spool" isnt going to be worth the money for the upgrade.

Just want to mirror off what everyone else is saying. We use the heck out of PTE turbos on DSMs and EVOs. SC61 is a beast on E-85. Company mainly makes larger frame turbochargers for motors that can handle the high boost characteristics. Take a ride in an EVO with a PTE 6262 on 38psi, you'll love it ;)

I figured this is appropriate for OOing and AHHing at...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325779786

This is my precision 6766 Billet DBB turbo. Like Army4g63 said, they are more commonly known for mid to large frame turbos. I just browsed through their website, they dont offer much for smaller sized turbos, but if your horsepower goal is 400-800whp they offer 30 different turbos haha.

Great link, thanks.

They dont have them on the website but at PRI they told me they have a whole line of t2 turbos comming out this year. Also the ball bearing billet wheel isnt all about spool, The same turbo with a billet wheel and ball bearing will make more power even if it didnt spool faster. The ball bearing allows the turbine wheel to accelerate faster reducing back pressure which will allow you to throw more timing at it if and thus make more power. Notice every person you see with bent rods 250hp miatas all run gt25s and log manifolds, and all the still running 350hp stock motor miatas all run free flowing tubular manifolds with t3 frame turbos. Its a concept the honda guys got figured out but big turbos do not work well on road courses so most people building a setup for their miata will go with the tiny turbo and cast manifold which greatly limits the power capabilities of the stock motor IMO. Just think about how a rod bends when you hydrolock, the rod bends on its way up, not on its way down due to a massive thrust downward. At least this is my understanding, correct if incorrect.

I'm not sure that your idea about the turbine speed affecting backpressure that much is correct. A/R makes sense.

Data point- it was very hard for me to hit 400hp with my GT30 and log manifold.

One of our customers has the world record 2v mod motor mustang, it had an 88mm non ball bearing precision on it and it ran 8.85. He went to an 88mm ball bearing and it went a 8.66. But more importantly he has a back pressure sensor in the collector which showed a huge drop in back pressure even with the same size A/R just going from journal to ball bearing, with billet wheel and he was able to give it more timing without detonation as a result.
400whp i can imagine would be extremely difficult to reach with a t2 frame turbo <Edit> Without e85.

Interesting. Thanks for the info!

I noticed that between yesterday (when Precision got back to me recommending the PT5858 CEA for my 2.5) and last week, they went thru and deleted quite a few turbos from their website's listing, especially in the "450-600" category. I am looking forward to seeing what they come out with in the T2 size range and their "3-4 months out" stainless vband housings (their current vband housings are not stainless).

Your going to need a tubular manifold to go further. a GT30 ( 57mm compressor wheel) can easily reach 400 horsepower. What size backhousing are you using? I assume 0.63 AR? You can try jumping to the .81 to bump the top end power, but the money is better spent on a new manifold id think. Last turbine housing I bought by itself was almost 400 bucks lol. Alot of money for a small change.

I made 374 WHP on my honda (1.8) @ only 11.5 psi using my GT3076 with a 0.63 backhousing on a tubular manifold.

Search for Failfloral's current 100 page build thread. He dumped that old setup a while ago; he's currently running one of the slickest equal length manifolds and a gigantic twinscroll Borg with a quickspool valve. And he knocks while cruising.

Your information however is still valid, don't get me wrong.

Honda 1.8 =/= Mazda 1.8 :( :( :(

Cheap shot!

yes Honda 1.8 =/////////////////////////////////////=mazda 1.8

Supratim, what 's your hold?

Consider this your correction - it's completely wrong. :) When you hydrolock, it is absolutely a massive downward force - it is the force of the (essentially) incompressible water acting against the inertia of the piston. Decreasing the backpressure in the exhaust manifold by a few PSI (even 10+psi in extreme cases) is like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic when you compare it to the hundreds of PSI the engine experiences during the combustion phase.

There is nothing magical about the people making huge power on factory motors - they are either lucky, not running the motor very hard, or not telling us about it when it finally explodes.

Okay dude, thanks. We have absolutely nothing in common with Honda engines...nothing.