A question about my odd BOV - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-02-2007, 11:59 AM   #21
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Crap. I missed that too. Now your valve will probably leak boost on tip-in or maybe even longer what with the spring being cut.
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Old 11-02-2007, 12:00 PM   #22
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...but then again thats like someone wondering why their car isn't starting after its run out of gas.
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Old 11-02-2007, 12:24 PM   #23
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Yeah hopefully your BOV won't leak boost. Leave the boost gauge hooked up where it is so you can watch for any pressure loss compared to what you're used to seeing. You should be able to hear it leak if it does, too.
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:09 PM   #24
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Well its not the peak boost that is a concern, it takes a pretty crap valve to leak once peak boost is reached. Its boost onset that is the problem.

Look at the dyno below. Independent 3rd party dyno test on a stock 06 STi and with our recirc valve installed. Valve install done on the dyno in between runs and the car was brought to the same temp for both runs.

The weak spring in the factory valve is being blown open due to latency and pressure drop. Once this happens there is a far greater surface area available to the charge air to act upon than normal, keeping the valve open even if the intake manifold side of the valve and the charge pipe side reach equilibrium. When this happens the only thing that will close it is the difference between the two coming from the spring.

Being that your valve is compressor mounted it will be seeing the highest possible pressure on the bottom of its diaphragm, so the problem will likely be magnified.


Last edited by PAT!; 11-13-2007 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:39 PM   #25
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Ok guys, I put a spacer behind the spring (to lengthen it alittle), changed the line to over at the TB, and it works perfect! It has a cool whistle to it, ill take a vid sometime (its acually pretty darn loud!). Nor does it leak.

Also, I relocated the boost gauge to the TB, and found out im acually boosting only 3 to 4 psi with the intercooler drop factored in! so..

thanks to my school's auto lab having an account with grainger, I made a "grainger MBC" for $10 =). Turned the boost up so it just kisses 5 psi, and it runs beautiful!

QUESTION - I hooked the boost gauge where the charchol chanister was, and took off the line to the charchol canister. I ran it for a lil like that.. is that ok? Do I need to hook it up ASAP?
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Old 11-02-2007, 11:11 PM   #26
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You don't really need the charcoal cannister. Pretty sure it just catches gasoline vapors so they don't get into the atmosphere.
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Old 11-02-2007, 11:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
You don't really need the charcoal cannister. Pretty sure it just catches gasoline vapors so they don't get into the atmosphere.
I know it does that, im just wondering if haveing it unhooked will mess with fuel vapor in the tank or anything.
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Old 11-03-2007, 12:50 AM   #28
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You should be fine. I would get my signal from somewhere else though. You have the fitting on the back of the mani and the ones at the TB. Or you could put a T into your brake booster line and get it from there, that would work well. Either way I don't see you having your CC unhooked being a problem. rmmcelwe and mxv don't run one.
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Old 11-03-2007, 12:52 AM   #29
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Where exactly is the one on the back of the mani? I cannot seem to find it.
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Old 11-03-2007, 12:54 AM   #30
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What year is your car. You might not have one. Most cars have a fitting between on the backside near the firewall. I have a '99, hard to relate to NAs.
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Old 11-03-2007, 01:06 AM   #31
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93
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Old 11-03-2007, 02:07 AM   #32
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Do you have this?
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Old 11-03-2007, 01:06 PM   #33
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yes I do. I was wondering if it was ok to tee into the FPR, thanks =)
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