Shitty home depot bolt met too much resistance from the threads and the head twisted off with it almost entirely threaded into the turbine outlet flange. I think it was too soft a grade of metal.

How the **** do I remove it?

 

can you fit a drill in there?

 

1. vise grips if you can
2. reverse drill bit
3. ez-out
4. bigger reverse drill bit
5. by this point you've just got a hole in the turbo since you've drilled the entire thing out, retap and you're good to go.

I had to do that to my BEGI manifold.

e: You're going to be removing the turbo to get this out, by the way. Spend the half hour or so to get it out; you'll make your extraction a TON easier.

 

I noticed that 2 out of 5 of the bolts holding on the downpipe were missing. Who knows how long that was the case. Anyway, I decided to replace the missing ones by screwing in some extra 5/16 18 bolts that happened to be the right size. Unfortunately the threads grip really hard on the turbine housing.

Removing the turbo is such a pain in the ***. Oh well.

Guess this answers the question "do I really need a complete tap set?"

Lately I have been feeling that I have too many damn tools and not enough space to keep them all organized. I hate switching to a new job that requires a new tool because then I have to spend all day looking for it. I am currently missing 5/16ths ratchet wrench I use for pipe clamps and brake lines.

 

There are a lot of neat things you can do to get out a busted bolt. Sometimes you can get real lucky and do the double nut trick. Sometimes you can etch a slot into the top and remove with a screwdriver. Sometimes it's easier to "tighten" the bolt so it goes through in the forward direction, as opposed to twisiting it anitclockwise and backing it out. Other times, you have to drill the bitch out. Take a pic of it and I'll give a specific trick.

 

I decide while I am at it, I might as well redo all the threads since the bolts all seemed to come out with mangled threads.

 

Man that sucks. Grade 10.8 bolts here i come.

 

what kinda puny WG port you got there might sa well fix that to

 

What did you expect using a home depot bolts on an exhaust turbine housing?

There is a difference between ghetto and cost saving measures versus stupidity.

 

The WG is fine.

I have mostly drilled out the hole but I think my drilling is a bit off center.

Any ideas?

 

I saw a cool trick the other day on how to remove a broken bolt like this using a welder and nut. Find a nut about the same size as your bolt. Place the nut on top of the bolt and weld the two together. Let the bolt cool down and slowly remove the broken bolt. Here's the video demo:

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/...roken-stud.htm

Good luck.

 

I've welded nuts to broken bolts many times succesfully. Just don't weld the nut to the housing obviously.

 

Yeah, that's how we removed my locking lug nut that I didn't have a key for.

That looks like it's broken off flush. Have fun with Mr. Electric Drill, or weld a nut on it as above.

 

I don't have a welder.

I have drilled out 7/32nds worth of hole through the bolt, but my drilling was off center so I am nearly at the threads on one side.

I am out of ideas and becoming aggravated.

 

So you have a hole drilled. Is it drilled to size for a Ez-out or did you just drill a hole? If you drilled it for an Ez out I would soak it with penetrating oil for a while. Try the ez-out without breaking it off(very common), then if that didn't work i would heat it up and try some more. If you break the ez out off do what you can to get the piece/pieces out then drill and retap it.

 

I don't have an ez-out but I can get one tomorrow. Any idea where to get one?

 

what he said... but I'd use heat from the get go.... lots of it.

 

lowes, home depot, autoparts store, hardware store. You might need a tool to hold it so you can turn the bit as well.
Take the housing with you and try to get one that will be big enough that it won't snap off but small enough that you can still drill the appropriate sized hole without messing the threads up.

 

Ok, I'm just going to drill it out and helicoil it.

Thanks guys.

 

There's one more good trick not mentioned yet, melt the bastard out. It depends a bit on the metallurgy of the bolt and whatever it's in, but in general you can burn the bolt to nothing without damaging the threads. The threads of the hole are cooled by all the material around it, the bolt it just on it's own and will get a lot hotter a lot faster. I used to supervise a locomotive shop and this was where we turned when all the broken easy-outs and broken off welded on nuts were done with.