So I know we have a few threads talking about the true cost to turbo a car, but I think this one is a pretty realistic/complete look at it for a nice EFR car setup.

I officially have my turbo build up and running, and I kept track of most everything I bought (including the car) in a spreadsheet.

Trust me, if you are not frugal (I was not) it will be a LOT more than you assumed. I am all in for a dual duty EFR build at about $26,287.00, which does include a $3,500.00 NB Miata platform to start with. I still have about 2-3k to spend before I feel the car is "completed".

I would consider this list a pretty standard list for a reliable dual duty high horsepower (350-400WHP) build.
All work on the car was done by myself besides alignments/machining block/head.
This list includes all of the original suspension/chassis/safety parts I purchased before going turbo to be safe/make the car more fun.

I hope this helps some people. Please feel free to use the google doc spreadsheet any way you would like.

And newbs/broke college kids. LOOK AT THIS LIST. No, you CAN NOT build a (reliable) dual duty 350 WHP Miata for Under about $15,000

Make a copy of this version to edit.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Here is a quick view.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...wqJmPA/pubhtml

 

I'll bite. I've spent ~$20k for my EFR setup. More street oriented, driven when it's nice out. Might Auto X a bit but no plans for track yet. No built engine, started with a pretty clean car, payed more than most but it was in good shape. Next major step will be building the engine and upgrading to a 6-spd with 3.6 rear end, when I decide I want to put the time/money into the car.

Here's my summary doc:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...68&single=true

 

Thanks for sharing your list. What is with the engine ground straps?

 

Another data point here.

My build and budget falls right in line with OP. After my initial budgeting and planning, I estimated 15k but am now sitting at ~25k for an EFR build I feel confident using as dual-purpose. This was without cutting any corners, but costs could be brought down a little bit by leaving out some parts unrelated to the engine/hotside.

Heres the parts doc:
bit.ly/apexmiata

 

wow thats alot - even more in US! (im au). great list of parts - thanks for the effort

so you have an oil temp reading from the drain plug? does this go straight to the gauge? does oil pressure have a guage? no oil cooler???

 

Don't have a perfect list like you have, but I tried to keep track of costs.

I have a car that was pretty much for free, because it was just shitty. Ended up being 150€ for the car itself

It got new paint and extensive rust repair, both done by friends. With a rods only engine and new bearings, head, valves - my built cost me around 15-16.000€ (18-19.000$).

I think 15k$ plus a car is what you need to build a reliable machine

 

Now I have a low budget, low boost car. Car started as a 2001 SE in great shape with some suspension done. MK turbo, full kit, FM clutch, Mishimoto rad with FM fan and shroud. I replaced the tired original engine with a stock UK one, with 80k in it. Misc. gauges, catch can etc. I never tallied up the total costs, but I would estimate it to be between 5 & 6k.
I have thoughts of a rods only rebuild, to turn up the boost, but the cheapass in me says stay at 200whp. Lots of respect for you people going all out building killer high hp Miatas.

 

Yes, we should fix that: 15k$ plus is what you need to build a reliable 300whp+ machine...

 

I’m afraid to add it up lol

 

I just want to know how you scored a 3.6 diff for $600, they are 1000 now anywhere I lok and I sure would like one with my 6speed and 4.1 rear end hahah

 

FA56: I don't see an oil cooler on the list.

 

I actually still need to install the oil temp drain plug, but yes, that is the plan and I hope it works out well. Gauge is in car, but not reading anything yet. It will go straight to gauge, electronic sender and 12V power at gauge.

Oil pressure also has a gauge, I have a 3 gauge holder in lieu of my stereo, and I have my boost gauge mounted in one of round vent holes. I have my oil pressure sender teed into my turbo feed line (AN6 line)

No oil cooler. I am interested to see what oil temp readings are at once I get the sender installed (installing at next oil change). Hoping to get by without a cooler, but may have to change that.

 

I messed that breakout up.

It was from Yossi on these forums. Just looked back at the PM's and it broke down like this.

$650 shipped - 6 speed tranny
$800 shipped - 3.6 diff.

Both came out of the same car that had 56k miles (he originally thought it was 87k mile car, so I think I got a bit lucky there)

 

Half that is doable if you do all the work yourself. Shitty $800 NA. Body work and paint, rods only engine, MS3X, manifold and exhaust, all of it was DIY including tuning. Dirt cheap used 6 speed, used torsen, used 6258, ebay intercooler.

If you can't do those things yourself then yeah 15k is probably right.

 

Proper rollbar, wheels/tires, everything serviced, brakes, suspension, roof/hardtop, fuel pump, injectors, regulators, soo much stuff. I did all the work myself, paint job was dirt cheap, car was for free, I'm a cheap ***hole.
Okay, I had to buy a very expensive cat, Tüv certificates, that's all stuff, that adds up here, but under 10k is a stretch including a car, if you want a nice street toy.

Sure, you can MK Turbo your shitbox, search for cheap transmission/diff and end up at 7500$, but the world isn't always perfect. The truth lies somewhere in the middle I think

 

Rollbar, wheels, brakes, suspension, hardtop. All things that contribute nothing to making a reliable 300 whp street miata.

​​​​​ If you remove those costs from your total where does that put you?

Your version of a miata is 15k. That doesn't mean it's the minimum cost to make 300 whp reliably.

 

As a broke college student, my build started as cheap as possible. I'm talking not-a-single-new-part with fake rx8 injectors cheap. I've now worked my way up to a built motor with a non-efr (precision 4828) turbo and made a lot of mistakes on the way. I would guess I'm in about 8-10k in parts now, plus 5k for the car initially, and that's including many mistakes (eBay turbos, shitty injectors, etc etc). I've got most of the bells and whistles with an MS3, BEGi manifold, FM intercooler and piping, full 3 inch exhaust, ls coils, so on. I think with plenty of experience and some savviness right off the bat it could be done surprisingly cheap, like 5-7.5k?

 

This thread actually got me interested in how cheap I could have gone, so I went back to my priced-out build list and totaled only the parts that were absolutely necessary. Im talking no boundary oil pump, no superdamper, no headwork, switched the EFR for a china T3, fred flintstone style brakes, no chassis upgrades, etc...

Even using some used part pricing, I only could get the price down to 11k plus the car. 15k+ seems like a pretty reasonable expectation for a basic reliable 300hp+ miata unless you've got some crazy hookups. If you tried to go cheaper I would expect it to cause more headaches than it's worth.

Im all ears if someones satisfied with a build they've done for less, but the numbers say 15k+ in relation to my build, prices I could find, and fab work I'm capable of.

 

Show your list and I'll tell you where you spent money you didn't need to.

My original rods only chinese 2871 combination was on the road for less than 8 including the car with fresh paint and a new glass robins soft top.

 

I did some research and put together a real list here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

A lot of it is hunting for good deals. It's clearly nowhere near perfectly accurate but that is everything directly pertinent to the engine and drivetrain that has been done. This also doesn't include things like small hardware bits, random fluids, cleaning supplies, tools, and many of the other things necessary to complete the project. Those probably tally close to $1400 on their own. It also lacks 2 things necessary to be considered a fully capable 300-400whp car: a capable transmission and a proper ethanol tune. A 6 speed can be had for 650 and a good tune for 300-500 depending on location. That does indeed put me right near my $10000 estimate.

In all reality, the answer to OPs question will probably vary depending on a particular persons definition. I didn't count things like roll bars, brakes, brake lines, wheels/tires, and suspension. Others will. What even counts as 350-400 capable? Does only the engine have to handle it? Driveline? Do the tires need to be able to make it useable and the brakes able to stop it? Regardless, I think it's certainly possible with enough effort to put it together for quite a bit less than 15, maybe even less than 10.