TD05H DIY Turbo Project
09-24-2010, 05:23 PM
#1
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TD05H DIY Turbo Project
alrighty ladies and gents, i finally picked up the turbo from my friend's Eclipse GST. its turbine housing has cracks all the way around the exhaust inlet reaching to the wastegate port (where downpipe would bolt up) the wastegate looks to be so old that its inactive and perhaps even explain why the turbine housing was cracked to begin with.
being a free turbo, i could care less about the condition but i was hoping to hear from other members who are using or know more about this turbo ME=
.. would it be worth repairing and using? OR would parts cost exceed cost of a new turbo? i got a 93 1.6 and im only looking to push 4psi or so to keep <200hp for street. likely just gonna run a powercard with gauges and manual boost controls to tune for an even AFR. i know i know MS is the way to go for the long haul but this is just a temp turbo set up. the real deal will be after the L33 gets mounted up >:]
Also: if anyone has a sound TD05 turbine housing laying around i would be more than happy to take it off your hands after a negotiated price
being a free turbo, i could care less about the condition but i was hoping to hear from other members who are using or know more about this turbo ME=
.. would it be worth repairing and using? OR would parts cost exceed cost of a new turbo? i got a 93 1.6 and im only looking to push 4psi or so to keep <200hp for street. likely just gonna run a powercard with gauges and manual boost controls to tune for an even AFR. i know i know MS is the way to go for the long haul but this is just a temp turbo set up. the real deal will be after the L33 gets mounted up >:]Also: if anyone has a sound TD05 turbine housing laying around i would be more than happy to take it off your hands after a negotiated price
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09-24-2010, 09:45 PM
#4
POS turbo.
You're basing your whole setup around a POS turbo using POS bandaids. I see nothing but fail in your future.
If you seriously are THAT broke that you can't put together a simple DECENT low boost turbo setup then you must not even have money for things like clutch and maintenance items, in which case you are broke as **** and the LAST THING you should be doing is going turbo.
You're basing your whole setup around a POS turbo using POS bandaids. I see nothing but fail in your future.
If you seriously are THAT broke that you can't put together a simple DECENT low boost turbo setup then you must not even have money for things like clutch and maintenance items, in which case you are broke as **** and the LAST THING you should be doing is going turbo.
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09-25-2010, 12:10 AM
#5
dude a ebay 16g is under 200bucks atleast get a newish turbo. the 1.6's and 1.8's alike both love 16g's running a powercard is asking for trouble you would be better off running a rrfpr than that stupid peice of ****. It will be more reliable and just all around better.
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09-25-2010, 01:53 AM
#7
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POS turbo
? i know its small and cant handle, say 18PSI, but its a decent turbo for minimum boost daily driver applications and smaller motors.
there are multiple cracks on the exhaust inlet side.. and some run fairly deep into the body
also the wastegate flap doesnt make a complete seal at all due to the cracks 
, the last picture shows the flapper down and on the lower edge you can see a significant gap 
i was planning on using a FPR along with it, ive heard the powercard works well in conjunction with a fpr to further curve the a/f ratio. i havent researched this as much so im sure someone will contradict me :P
? i know its small and cant handle, say 18PSI, but its a decent turbo for minimum boost daily driver applications and smaller motors.there are multiple cracks on the exhaust inlet side.. and some run fairly deep into the body
also the wastegate flap doesnt make a complete seal at all due to the cracks , the last picture shows the flapper down and on the lower edge you can see a significant gap i was planning on using a FPR along with it, ive heard the powercard works well in conjunction with a fpr to further curve the a/f ratio. i havent researched this as much so im sure someone will contradict me :P
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09-25-2010, 03:01 AM
#9
OK,
Your turbo is junk. It's just a paperweight now.
You're best bet is either a used kit from off here or a Begi Shanghai kit. Low boost DD all you need is a 2560.
As for engine management, MS is most cost efficient. This should go in before the turbo. But if you want to be a dumbass like me and run band-aids, your looking at close to $200 dollars for a shitty tune, but it works.
I can vouch for this n00b. He may be a miata turbo idiot, but he is a good guy IRL.
Your turbo is junk. It's just a paperweight now.
You're best bet is either a used kit from off here or a Begi Shanghai kit. Low boost DD all you need is a 2560.
As for engine management, MS is most cost efficient. This should go in before the turbo. But if you want to be a dumbass like me and run band-aids, your looking at close to $200 dollars for a shitty tune, but it works.
I can vouch for this n00b. He may be a miata turbo idiot, but he is a good guy IRL.
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09-25-2010, 09:45 AM
#10
There's no ******* way I would put that turbo any where near my car. And 4psi? Lol
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09-26-2010, 02:56 PM
#14
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POS turbo? i know its small and cant handle, say 18PSI, but its a decent turbo for minimum boost daily driver applications and smaller motors.
there are multiple cracks on the exhaust inlet side.. and some run fairly deep into the body
also the wastegate flap doesnt make a complete seal at all due to the cracks 
, the last picture shows the flapper down and on the lower edge you can see a significant gap 
i was planning on using a FPR along with it, ive heard the powercard works well in conjunction with a fpr to further curve the a/f ratio. i havent researched this as much so im sure someone will contradict me :P
? i know its small and cant handle, say 18PSI, but its a decent turbo for minimum boost daily driver applications and smaller motors.there are multiple cracks on the exhaust inlet side.. and some run fairly deep into the body
also the wastegate flap doesnt make a complete seal at all due to the cracks , the last picture shows the flapper down and on the lower edge you can see a significant gap i was planning on using a FPR along with it, ive heard the powercard works well in conjunction with a fpr to further curve the a/f ratio. i havent researched this as much so im sure someone will contradict me :P
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09-29-2010, 03:55 PM
#18
soi soi soi
I think I hear your rofl-copter flying to pick you up for a one way ticket to your fail boat.
lololololololololol
Seriously... 4psi? My go-kart runs 5.5psi.
I currently have serious boost leaks and my car runs 7psi with them.
For 4psi might as well just run a CAI with some riceland headers.
That turbo is a piece of ****. I have a garrett/ AiResearch M10/T2 I could sell you, that you maybe can get to a minimum of 5psi... its good for street because it has a very fast BOOSSSTZ response... and with the T2 family flange, for the one day (if you dont blow up your motor on the first startup) you can upgrade to a T25 or T28.
I would not touch that lame powercard, might as well buy a 5th injector while your at it.
either a RRFPR or MS. I would go with MS. because after 6-7psi, a RRFPR is practically worthless, unless you upgrade your injectors... then maybe you can survive to 8-9psi, but after that you still want ms... because lets face it, once you feel boost for the first time, you never go back. You just keep bumping up the pressure at some point in your driving life until that glorious day you need engine internals to gain one extra psi marker...
I am on my third engine, and I am not the only one here to tell you detonation is no friend, for the price of an engine you might as well save the effort and buy MS. I ran on band-aids (RRFPR, boost timing controller from MSD) with some 470cc injectors and it took me all the way to 8psi until I had a MSDIY built from a friend here in town (well worth it); but my very first time on a boosted engine I didnt know better, I didnt consult people here or listened. I was running fine on just an AFPR (no bueno from the start) until I reached 5 seconds of WOT @ 6psi... embarassing ride back home, when there is a cloud of white smoke coming from your tail pipe and the car sounds like ****.
Trust me, and listen to the pros. I failed back then, and having fun now that I listened.
I think I hear your rofl-copter flying to pick you up for a one way ticket to your fail boat.
lololololololololol
Seriously... 4psi? My go-kart runs 5.5psi.
I currently have serious boost leaks and my car runs 7psi with them.
For 4psi might as well just run a CAI with some riceland headers.
That turbo is a piece of ****. I have a garrett/ AiResearch M10/T2 I could sell you, that you maybe can get to a minimum of 5psi... its good for street because it has a very fast BOOSSSTZ response... and with the T2 family flange, for the one day (if you dont blow up your motor on the first startup) you can upgrade to a T25 or T28.
I would not touch that lame powercard, might as well buy a 5th injector while your at it.
either a RRFPR or MS. I would go with MS. because after 6-7psi, a RRFPR is practically worthless, unless you upgrade your injectors... then maybe you can survive to 8-9psi, but after that you still want ms... because lets face it, once you feel boost for the first time, you never go back. You just keep bumping up the pressure at some point in your driving life until that glorious day you need engine internals to gain one extra psi marker...
I am on my third engine, and I am not the only one here to tell you detonation is no friend, for the price of an engine you might as well save the effort and buy MS. I ran on band-aids (RRFPR, boost timing controller from MSD) with some 470cc injectors and it took me all the way to 8psi until I had a MSDIY built from a friend here in town (well worth it); but my very first time on a boosted engine I didnt know better, I didnt consult people here or listened. I was running fine on just an AFPR (no bueno from the start) until I reached 5 seconds of WOT @ 6psi... embarassing ride back home, when there is a cloud of white smoke coming from your tail pipe and the car sounds like ****.
Trust me, and listen to the pros. I failed back then, and having fun now that I listened.
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10-02-2010, 09:44 PM
#19
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WOW youre a fart smeller!
if you are so ignorant, which i suppose you may be, i will clarify this for you (or you can see my profile) that my first name is Dane, middle initial happens to be a C, and my last name is Kaeppel.just by chance my email is dckaeppel@gmail.com.
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10-02-2010, 09:48 PM
#20
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okay and now a side question to anyone whos still paying any attention to this thread..
does MS work for V8 conversions as well. my ultimate goal is to run turbo until the engine dies of old age *daily driver* as i save for all the accommodations of a L33/t-56 swap.
does MS work for V8 conversions as well. my ultimate goal is to run turbo until the engine dies of old age *daily driver* as i save for all the accommodations of a L33/t-56 swap.
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