I'm not a honda guy I was just agree with him. I am a chevy guy I just don't like the way the shifter feels in this thing.

There is nothing better than the shifter on the tranmission. I have no clue why anyone would like shift links

To answer your question yes I'm using cheapo coulpers, but I welded a bead around the end of the pipes so they should hold up. I've used they on other projects and after a boost leak test they held up 15psi no problem. I did the same thing your doing, routing a u-pipe back to the afm. I did have to notch the hood, but it was real easy because of the thin aluminum hood. I'm using a -3 oil line hooked up to the original oil line from the turbo with just a small pvc hose clamp. And yes the brace are helm joints, one side mounted to the moter mount, the other to the bolt connecting the turbo and dp.

Im shooting for about 250, but I'll be happy at about 220ish. Probably need about 20 psi to get to 250 with these small turbo, but its a lot more fun to drive for a dd than a big turbo with major lag.

Yes I wanted to clock the turbo but the c-clip that holds the compressor housing was rusted on... best thing I could do was clock the whole assembly. I'm debating if I should trim the fin of the engine frame to clock the turbo more so I can get a perfect straight doen flow of the return line.

It seems like a tight fit for a u bend, but it could just be the angle of the pic. If you want to clean up the oil line later all you need is a $5 inverted flare 7/16 -24 to -3an brake fitting. As far as the cartridge angle, i believe garrett/turbonetics recommend no more than 15 degrees off vertical, so if you're within that it's fine. You shouldn't have to trim anything to clock it though.

Sent you a pm about the brace, hopefully you can receive pm's.

I like some Toyota and Honda cable shifters a lot, too. And I've driven the balls off more cars than most people will drive at all.

Buy a mazdaspeed short shifter. Best feel ever.

I used to think my miata was SOOOOO light, then I found out that a civic hatch with the carpet and rear seats removed is like 1800 pounds.
There is a lot of weight that goes into making the miata rigid because it is a convertible.

I used to hate on hondas too, I thought they were all ricers, then I started working on them and I found out that they can be moddified so easily and when you put the right parts in them they are pretty much the fastest car for the money... ever.

My friend had a crx fully stripped I'm talking everything nothing but a steering wheel and gas pedal. It weight 1602 with him in the car and gas. The car was making 314whp on a stock internal with a gsr b18c. I have owned my share of honda's and they are cheap to make go fast and have a huge aftermarket support. But the Miata is way more fun to drive why do you think I traded my 98 integra type R for a 2001 miata and I have way more fun driving this car. Rear wheel drive convertible over a front wheel drive hard top and day. Only Honda I would ever buy again is a S2k but I am not going to do it I'm gonna get a c6 corvette instead.

Ugly welds but nice to see someone doing it on the cheap. I'll be interested to see how much you have to put into the project if you are trying to go 15+ psi.

For the Honda argument RWD > FWD.

Hows the mani holding up?

"Why can't we all just get along?" but seriously I drive my 1992 Honda civic 4-door every day, cause the wife don't agree with the kids riding in the trunk of the Miata :(. So i asked her to jump in the trunk and the kids ride up front, but that didnt go well either. Oh'well Thats life right.

For $320 you can't go wrong, looks good keep ballin on a budget :) Boosted

To be fair to Miata's, you have one of the heaviest, with ABS, PS, and AC. Give it help for christ's sake, remove all that, plus I don't think you'll be needing the airbox support bracket, that can go. And what are those tiny diagonal rods, did you tilt the rad back?

Still got to clean up the welds, all it needs is injectors and em and a tune roughly $1k more lol

So far so good, its in storage ever since and only seen about 100 miles

thats what i'm saying cant beat that for $320

I take trips down Mn so cc is nice, ps idk but dont want to mess with that. A/c is key, some days the top down or windows roll doesnt do it with. The rods hold the rad in place because its moved back two inchs to clear the room for the i/c and the condensor

that b18c won't last long at that kind of power. I also had a honda and thought it was great 1990 barbados yellow crx si. i thought it was the greatest car ever cornerd like it was on rails. but when it comes down to it the front wheels were doing the steering, stopping, and accelerating. not to mention this was about 8 years ago and my father bought a 96 miata. after driving that i was all about rear wheel drive.

BS. The b18c has been known to be beat on ruthlessly with 400+hp and stock internals. The last one I heard of broke because a girl did a high rpm 3rd-4th (edit: meant 3rd-2nd) shift over-revving the motor and bending valves.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2564039

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cool. I love to see it done on a super-budget.

why do we suddenly argue this ridiculous shit on this forum? Time to let ban hamster out of the rolly-ball and thin the herd.

Why put the BOV on the hot side of the IC?

it doenst really matter that much