Reversing the Water flow in the engine
 

Ok, so I've got a 55mm Koyo Racing Aluminium Radiator, A 13 Row Mocal Oil cooler, and 2 high speed SPAL fans.

I'm still not happy with my overall water temp at idle in traffic, the damn radiator is just too big for street. Then I hear some pals telling me to reverse the flow of the water in the engine, so that the 4th cylinder gets the coolest water FIRST, before the rest of the engine.

Questions:
1.Has anyone done this modification and does it actually work? My pal did this on a NB and NC and he swears by it.

2. Next in line for more cooling mods was probably going to be 2 small fans for the oil cooler. The question is - would computer fans work? Or can anyone point me to where I can find 2 small fans that would work with the Mocal's rectangular shape.

Just wondering what Water temp. are you getting while idling in the traffic(Nice Asian Summer weather) ??

I am having the same problem, I just choose not to take the car out!

next thing I'll do its to put a few role of louvers such heat could escape from under the hood, and keep the heat exchange circulating while its stuck in traffic under the sun.

You need to do a search for a "coolant reroute". Instead of reversing the flow you put the flow into the back of the head instead of the front.

i run the all metal automatic factory radiator and have never had a problem with my coolant temps. i did the coolant reroute on my car, here's a link to diagrams and some pics of mine on my site. http://www.miatamx5.com/coolantreroute/index.html
the piping and thermo housing will all be redone shortly by TurboTim(ShoreMotorsports), we got some trick setup planned.

If you have two Spals and a 55mm Koyo, and you're not happy with coolant temps, you have other issues. I have a 57mm CSF and the stock fans and the only times I've ever see the needle move past 12pm was on the track in 95-110 degree heat.

the design of the waterpump would prevent you from flowing water the way you want....but what you can do is search "coolant reroute"

but you shouldn't have any problems idling within range with your mods. are you sure its not full of air pockets? you should be at 87-98°C at idle.


https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/beginning-my-spacerless-coolant-reroute-12027/

Is this on the stock, unmodified temp gauge, or has it been linearized?

Speaking of linearized gauges, i did that mod to my temp gauge and now it goes to 12 noon on startup and never moves. Think i need to return it to stock.

Stock unmodified. I really should linearize it. I know that it starts to move again around 220 degrees, so as soon as it moves I lift off the gas.

On the laptop through the MS, I've seen up to 215 in 110+ degree heat on the highway, but I also have a 27" intercooler blocking all the airflow to the radiator.

Eventually I want to send the cluster off to miatagauges.com and have them drop a couple of analog 270 degree sweep VDO gauges into the stock locations.

Well, Im using a Pivot water temp gauge that taps off the ECU. This gauge is consistently higher than the readings off my Link Display, by about 2-3 degrees celsius. The pivot actually takes readings off the stock water temp sensor located at the back of the 4th cylinder.
On most applications I see around 88 to 95 degrees celsius. Whe I am stuck in traffic jams, the temp goes to about 104 degrees celsius. Please remember that Im in Singapore with high temperatures and high humidity.

I'm getting about there at idle. When I'm stuck in traffic, it can go up to about 105ish.

Sorry about the confusion, yes, my pal did mean coolant reroute. Sorry about that guys

I get about 105 degrees celcius off the pivot gauge tapping off the stock temp sensor. Link display shows me about 103. Only in traffic when i'm caught in a jam. my needle only starts to go past 12 o clock when the car hits 115 or so

I am also using the Pivot, but just its Tap in the front Rad hose. 84-87 C. reading from there. A friend has the same set up as you, has the same reading and up to 104 occasionally in the traffic (HOng KOng).

Thank you!

you could try changing your idle timing on Zi100 - increasing mine from ~6.5* to 13.0* helped the typical coolant temp to drop 2-4*C ... it was up to 100* or so before.

easy change to make too :bigtu:

jif that sounds interesting

qes78 - will your fans bring the temp down to the point where they will shut off when stopped in traffic?

The only place I'm able to obtain a reading when the needle goes past 12 o'clock is on the track, and tech inspection won't let me put my laptop in the car to log it. :)

Start up datalog, put laptop in backpack, stuff under passenger seat... go out for a session :p

You need a palm then. They're around $40 on ebay it appears.

Can Palm be connected to Emanage Ultimate?
Does it have USB and can it run EMU software?

hrk

mimime: thanks, though I think the relative humidity in HK is much lower than in Singapore

jif: hmmm...that's an interesting solution. what value are u using for Zi100?

m2Cupcar: No, the fans seem to be perpetually running in heavy traffic.

I have no clue if that is possible. Pretty sure this question was just asked in the emanage forum though.

No. The EMU is compatible only with machines running ME, 2K, XP, or Veesta. It will not run under PalmOS or Windows CE.

You could use the EMUs internal logger and then dump to a laptop after the run. Doing so requires this device to trigger the logger: http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/pho...s/DSC05808.JPG

Actually, I'm sure there's a way to do it with a simple switch, I've just been too lazy to figure it out...

my easy DIY coolant reroute
 

Insert a T between the thermostat and radiator, then cap off the mixing manifold. Note that my coolant system contains about 30 hose clamps.


Hmmm, as I post this I notice there is a mistake in my drawing. I'll have to do it again and upload it. Still, it is just a mixing manifold bypass. Be sure to check your water flow if you screw around with using this method to cool your turbo. All water to the TB and intake manifold has been blocked off.

http://www.lightweightmiata.com/phenolic/phenolic07.jpg

Hey there. What's the value you're using?

With your setup, you shouldn't be seeing 104 in traffic for long with those fans. I have one 16" spal that pulls 2500cfm and it takes about 30 seconds for it to pull the coolant temp down from 100c to 92c when stopped. That's with a big intercooler and a/c condenser in front of the rad, and a 30/70 water/coolant mix.

What are your oil temps doing when the coolant temp rise occurs? If they're not elevating dramatically, then pulling air through the cooler won't do much for the coolant temp. If you do need/want a fan, go for an ATV fan.

Have you tried running the heater "full on" while sitting in traffic to see what that does?

Are you sure the tstat is fully opening?

Hey there.
I don;t have an Oil temp gauge, should really be looking at getting one eh.
Thanks for the lead on ATV fans, seems like a good choice.

MY heater, or rather, a/c is usually full on this my kind of climate. In traffic jams, it usually makes the temperature rise pretty fast.

Paul, not to hijack his thread but since I had to do this myself today after installing a PWR radiator and FCM Fan Shroud and since the weather in Singapore I suspect is similar to ours (hot climate); would it do any good in his case if he bypassed the hoses to heat the cockpit?.

One of those two hoses just broke as I was bringing the car back from the shop and I just bypassed both of them and closed the water circulating circuit as per your link but without modifying anything else.

Thanks,

Rafa

I am busy the next few weeks but hopefully I can give you guys some sort of update on my coolant reroute then.

Regarding that oil cooler thing I was working on, Racer Parts Wholesale is STILL sitting on my order waiting for the parts to arrive.