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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 06-15-2009, 02:52 PM   #41
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Last edited by Joe Perez; 06-15-2009 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Cropped 'yer damn photos. (didn't resize)
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Old 06-15-2009, 04:56 PM   #42
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You fail at image cropping.

OTOH, that is damned odd. The threads are not completely stripped from the rod bolt, nor from the nut.
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Old 06-15-2009, 05:07 PM   #43
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Weird, but that is going to make an awesome table...pics of the block?
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Old 06-15-2009, 05:40 PM   #44
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Nice pics, very interesting.... sorry about the loss but save that junk for show and tell!
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:50 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
You fail at image cropping.

OTOH, that is damned odd. The threads are not completely stripped from the rod bolt, nor from the nut.
Indeed. It's like the nut backed off the rod bolt. That seems like the only logical explanation and that doesn't seem logical.
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:55 PM   #46
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I will get better pictures once i get the motor out. Probably a couple of weeks from now.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:24 AM   #47
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18psi = vanishing rods?

Haha, jk. Sucks man, sorry to hear.. cant wait to see what your built motor does in the 1/4.
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:24 AM   #48
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if i didnt know any better i would say your bolt backed out but wtf doesnt seem possible. Seems like the main bearing lower was the first to fail, and with it the rest. I wonder if some loctite or lock washers etc would have helped in that case?
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:36 AM   #49
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It's common knowledge in the engine building world not to use lock washers or loctite for any bearing or main caps. Technically speaking if you know the physical properties of the nuts and bolts you're tightening and torque them to the correct torque, you will never need any locking devices, liquid or solid.

That said, with rod studs you want to 'set' the studs into the rod. Torque them, loosen them, and then torque them a final time. The first torquing will pull them all the way into the rod, and the final torque will keep them tight.

wes65, these are just general engine building tips, and in no way insult your engine building skills, if you did indeed build this engine. 18psi and 12,000rpm (which I highly doubt your friend did, btw) will kill just about all of our motors eventually.
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:55 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
It's common knowledge in the engine building world not to use lock washers or loctite for any bearing or main caps. Technically speaking if you know the physical properties of the nuts and bolts you're tightening and torque them to the correct torque, you will never need any locking devices, liquid or solid.

That said, with rod studs you want to 'set' the studs into the rod. Torque them, loosen them, and then torque them a final time. The first torquing will pull them all the way into the rod, and the final torque will keep them tight.

wes65, these are just general engine building tips, and in no way insult your engine building skills, if you did indeed build this engine. 18psi and 12,000rpm (which I highly doubt your friend did, btw) will kill just about all of our motors eventually.
No, this motor was put together by mazda 15 years ago. held up quite nicely, i think.
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:53 AM   #51
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Like SolarYellow said, I wonder if ARP's would have stopped this. Everything I've seen, people say they aren't needed, but this seems to show otherwise. First cap I've seen fail on a Miata. Sure its happened before though.
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:18 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Like SolarYellow said, I wonder if ARP's would have stopped this. Everything I've seen, people say they aren't needed, but this seems to show otherwise. First cap I've seen fail on a Miata. Sure its happened before though.
I think it would have but if you're going to have the motor out anyway, why not put forged rods in?
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:53 PM   #53
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considering it didnt strech then we are assuming the increased RPM crushed the bearing and allowed play in the system allowing the nut to wiggle free via vibration?
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:18 PM   #54
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Even if the bearings were completely flat, wouldn't the caps still be snuggly against each other where the bolts go through. Perhaps the bolt didn't streatch in total length, but the threads may have given way just enough to let the nut become loose. Only way I can see it happening.
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:30 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Even if the bearings were completely flat, wouldn't the caps still be snuggly against each other where the bolts go through. Perhaps the bolt didn't streatch in total length, but the threads may have given way just enough to let the nut become loose. Only way I can see it happening.
Sounds like the only logical explanation. It just seems odd.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:19 PM   #56
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My hunch is that the bolt stretched just enough for the nut to then be loose enough to back off. Looks like you dominated your starter too.

Are you interested in that 99 head? I'll be in New Albany from Sunday through most of next week and will be stripping the parts car. Give me a shout if you want to check it out.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:53 PM   #57
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I've suggested at least a thousand times that with my bandsaw and heliarc welder, I can repair anything. After looking at your con rod debris, I think I'll tone that down a bit.
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Old 06-17-2009, 01:14 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Corky Bell View Post
I've suggested at least a thousand times that with my bandsaw and heliarc welder, I can repair anything. After looking at your con rod debris, I think I'll tone that down a bit.
Haha, how about i send you the pieces and you take a shot.
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:54 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes65 View Post
Haha, how about i send you the pieces and you take a shot.
and you could probably sell them to the guy on miata.net who was "building high compression pistons" after he blows his motor.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:44 PM   #60
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