This seasons new ABSURDflow setup for my car
 

In keeping with my trend of replacing my setup every year, I've started this seasons setup now that I'm done with all my customer builds. I'll be using my tried & true 9 year old 2560 at first then maybe go with the E-USA chinaturbo 2871 I got from Lars once I see how this setup feels compared to my other tubular BEGI/FM replacement mani's I've been running. I can't wait to get my car off the jackstands and give it a bath. And save gas...the subaru is killing me with these gas prices :(

This will be a forward/upper mount manifold using my traditional collector. It will work with A/C & P/S without rerouting the lower radiator hose and hopefully fit big turbos too. And it's easy to make. There seems to be lots of room but I don't have any large turbos here to check fo sho.

See attached until I upload them to my site.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...8&d=1305171459

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...9&d=1305171459

More pics once I smoosh the pipes oval and weld on the head flange.

In for glorious thread of hotside pr0ns

Going for unequal length for a little of that subaru burble? :)

Make for 1.6 please :makeout:

Smoosh smoosh.

No silly, the manifold attaches to the other side of the exhaust ports. :loser:

Direct Exhaust Injection. Didn't you know?

reminds me of splitime's old manifold.

Yeah I wonder how it'll change the tone of the car. Probably not much at all :dunno:

Technically I should be able to use the jig for a 1.6 version, the port spacing isn't that far off.

Oops!

All I can find of splitime's manifold is a log style. But there is this mani that looks similar, yeah. I think this may be lovefab? Similarity is coincidental, and mine puts the turbo higher and further back to clear P/S stuff.
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5648/img0096kx5.jpg

that's the one; expect a boxer motor like exhaust note.

Doubt it.

If so, awesome.

I've installed a few unequal length manifolds on some hondas and it did add quite a bit of the boxer rumble. Not exactly like a subaru, but MUCH cooler sounding than your typical equal length inline.

If it doesn't sound fantastic I will be very surprised.

Wow so that was with the above manifold, not his log? I can't find when he ran that manifold. And why he switched to his DIY log. If my car sounds like that, fantastic!

he was running a 2860 with that manifold. He decided to sell it off and build a simple setup around a spare T3 he had sitting around. He then decided to swap in a VQ motor.

This.

And yah... very unique exhaust note. Full 3" from turbo back. Vibrant Muffler.

I changed to basically go back to being built around cheapness.

I bought the setup from him....

how it sounded on my car:



It worked REALLY well haha.


Edit: had a magnaflow 3" cat and a 15" magnaflow muffler... straight through with 6" od casing.

Ahh boy. Now I'm getting excited!!

EDIT: yeah that's similar to my exhaust; 3" magnaflow metal cat and 5x8x18" muffler. Drone at all?

Sounds great! Cant wait for results

What kind of drawback do unequal runner lengths have relative to the cool sound factor?

FWIW i've always noticed that bundy's car has a very unique exhaust note with his long runner equal length manifold. Completely the opposite sound of a subaru, its a very tight and perhaps a higher pitched note.

Also, the only boxer engine i've ever noticed having that exhaust note is a subaru and I was under the impression that was due to the fact that they all have unequal length manifolds unless the owner spent dollar signs converting it to equal length. Therefore I always assumed that subarus sound like they're running on 3 cylinders because they have an inefficient manifold design.

subaru's tend to gain HP when switching to equal length mani's and no loss of spool or low end. Correct, 18psi?

I did this mani so I could fit a (hopefully) large turbo and keep a/c p/s without a lower radiator hose redo and use my prototype collector cause the other manifolds I make are a PITA to build to a jig with the large blends and stuff. Cutting pipes to a certain length and/or bend and tacking them together per what solidworks tells you is turning out to be relatively drama free. If I get a suby-ish sound, great. If it's laggy compared to the previous manifold's I've run on this car with the same turbo, then I'll probably sell it. I prefer spool over sound. I am still of the general opinion (educated guess) that my traditional manifolds are more betterer than these more recent traditional collector manifolds, until actual dyno results are made. Another reason to make this mani.

I should be in the garage welding on the head flange.

I would love fOr my car to skinflint a subie. I get comPliments as is but that would be sick. Yo.

No drone at all. No cat either.

Tim, what's wrong with redoing your lower radiator hose? I did a simple job of mine.

http://gallery.y8s.com/d/22260-2/DSC00224.JPG

It just goes down around a few things and then back up. I forget what hose I used but it had a nice simple j-hook shape. I then mated it to the cut stock hose with a dual barb end connector of the appropriate size from mcmaster.

Requires effort.

Nice job on your solution however. Can I buy your MIG for cheap?

correctomundo. on average 15-17hp vs like 5-10 with a free-er flowing unequal one

So say 5-10hp with my tiny 2560. If that's the case I'll turn up the boost 1psi. Worth the tone in that case. :dunno:

probably less effort than building a manifold. but i guess you do that either way.

you want my mig? it's not worth it. there are better ones with variable current (not switches to make you angry) for about what I paid. it does do 110VAC though which is nice for light stuff.

there's an ad in grassroots motorsports for a 110v eastwood for 299 if you mention the magazine.

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

seems like a decent deal.

No drone on my old setup either....

No drone is good to know. Do either of you two have more pics of your manifolds? Would it clear A/C & P/S? Anything major have to be moved for it to fit?

shit dawg, mine clears, PS, AC and has an EGR bung.

http://gallery.y8s.com/miata/turbo/?g2_page=7

only thing I dont like about it is the wastegate placement on #4. it might be possible to do a collector-sourced gate pipe but it's tight in there.

also note the size of my compressor and how it fits without a sawzall heh heh!

my manifold WAS splitimes manifold. but i will give you this...
Attachment 188977
Attachment 188978
Attachment 188979
Attachment 188980

Cleared PS no problem with a 2860RS 0.86

I then upgraded to a 2871R Tial housing and it was fine too. I never ran AC so i cant comment on that.

Edit: the hardest part was making an intake that would fit with a decent sized filter. i ended up running the filter under the headlight (headlight stationary) and the hot pipe through fender.... no decent pics of that.


Edit 2: oh yeah... i modded my PS low pressure hjose since it wouldnt work with this manifold

Edit 3: the manifold nut going on between cylinder #1 and #2 was a royal pain in the nuts to get to... figure this into future designs.

Damn! I learn so much on this forum. That explains why my MSP3 sounds like a Subie. I've always wondered...

Weird manifold on that car too. Has some sort of accordion looking gizmo between the 2 sets of runners. No idea wtf that does.

Yeah you're old ETD manifold I think is very nice, hits all the good points. Fits with A/C P/S, big turbos, decent room for downpipe. Not a fan of the collector (for no good reason other than it's not available commercially in schedule 40 so I'd have to make it myself...or use schedule 10 which is fine for that portion anyway) but it works for the design and it works for flow.

I think if it cleared PS then it should also clear AC. I like your manifold better than mine...oh well. My collector angle is tighter which forces the turbo further from the engine.

Anyway, manifold is done, I have to order a 90deg silicone 2 to 2.5" transition and a tight R 3" bend for my downpipe...I have enough scraps to do the downpipe now but if I have to wait for the silicone then I may as well also get a new fresh bend.

Tim it's time to make a collector pipe cut jig.

I'm sure you could come up with something that lets you vary the merge angle in both planes.

of course the next challenge I have for you is a twisted collector.

I will have a picture for you shortly.

Looks similar to the ones Ric Stephens (RacingMazda) used to make. Your collector is much nicer though.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1305313731

get that gas spinnin!

and look how awesome and unequal your lengths are too. win win win.

While you're at it why not go with some crazy shit like this? :P http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gFIHQdcbj-U/0.jpg

Done, I hope. It was nice to finally wash off the cutoff wheel dust. It sounds the same as it's always have, not a cool boxer-ish rumble of the other brand manifold posted earlier here in this thread. Oh well. I only drove it around my block twice to make sure there was no leaks and grind off the rust on the brake disks. So far it only makes about 3psi at 2000 whereas my previous manifold, my replacement BEGI/FM tubular manifold, would make 5 or so. I may go out to get a ritas and play with it. Or I may drink some beers. :dunno:

More pics here:
ABSURDflow highmount A/C P/S

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/acps...ighmount13.jpg

ATP sent me a black silicone 90 instead of a blue which was even on the packing list in the box, oh well. I also have to throw on the toyota COPs, maybe.

Flipping the pipe between the black and the blue might give you a bit more room so the black hose isnt that sharply bent?

Same temperature weather for the spool comparison? I think it looks good! The collector looks like it is a very low merge angle. winnnninnn....g?

uhhhhhh :hustler: no it can't be done any other way.

It's probably cooler today than before. I took it out for a short drive and it seems slow. Booo Hoooooo. But it looks cool.

That is one interesting looking manifold. Hopefully we see what numbers it puts down next weekend.

have pics of intercooler pipe routing from turbo to intercooler?

looks like someone who wanted to redo lower rad pipe could run the compressor outlet down between the frame and engine and avoid the sharp bend through the fender... no?

The only sharp bend in the cold side piping is the black 90 silicone transition that is at the turbo outlet. Are you guys suggesting that it could cause my lack of low end torque?

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/acps...ighmount11.jpg

I ran two 90's at the turbo outlet with my first tubular begi replacement mani back when I made 268rwhp and that felt peppy.

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/begi...rdflowbegi.JPG
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...9&d=1241455020
got torque?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...0&d=1241455020

The 'version 2' manifold felt more torquey than that setup, but I also redid the first section of I/C pipes. Never dynoed it however.
http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/begi...replver217.jpg

Intercooler piping pics:
http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler7.JPG

http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler6.JPG
Post I/C:
http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler3.JPG

http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler4.JPG

Or, having not driven the miata for half a year, I could just be used to the subaru's low end torque. That's probably the case. There's some things I have to check and I haven't brought her above 4500 yet, hell I've only put maybe a mile on it so far.

thanks for the pics, awesome, looks like I know what way I want to route my piping now. Can you take the fender off without taking the front bumper off?

Just about, though you have to loosen it. There's a nut right under where the bumper meets the wing.

You can usually move the fender far enough to get access without moving that nut, I've noticed.

nah I just like smoothness.

if you already had the fender prepped for pipeage, then that works.

There was a portable Dynojet dyno at Jesel's BBQ today. My DIY Ball/spring MBC, which is pretty damn close to 14psi on the street, could only muster to hold 9psi on the dyno. Just like the delaware dynojet, I can't make the same boost on a dyno as on the street, and we weren't allowed to tweak anything between our 2 runs. Soo at 9psi I did 249rwhp, dynojet, GT2560R. I reallllyyyy want to see what this will do at 14psi damnit.

very impressive.

wow, wtf?? 250whp on only 9psi? that is some damn impressive numbers for such measly boost and a small turbo.

God damn Tim, that's impressive. I'm only making 242hp/230wtq at 12psi on a tater, but I'm under the curb and on low compression. Maybe I need to run 16 and flauce like a bauce, again.

any possibility of offering intercooler piping?

I am loving the way this manifold looks, and great price according to your future projects page. Would there be any extra charge for t3 flanges on any of you manifolds instead of t2?

His large IC piping with minimal bends probably has something to do with good power with less measured pressure. Very efficient set-up indeed!

That sounds kind of high for a 2560 at 9psi.

I'll post a screenshot of the datalog. IIRC Peak at 12psi @ torque peak but droping steadily to 9psi at redline.

Youtube vid from a coworker.


I'll answer more questions and get the screenshots shortly.

OK there's so much noise in my MAP sensor it's not funny. Eyeballing an average line between the peaks & valleys (~1psi spread) shows 13psi at 3550rpm140rwhp/210ftlb (350rpm higher than my last mt.net dyno day with the version 1 begi/fm tubular replacement mani).
That holds avg. 13psi to 5400rpm: 230hp/225ftlb.
Then it starts dropping to avg 11.5psi at 6000rpm which is my HP peak of 249hp/215ftlb. Torque is pretty much horizontal between 3500 & 6000 with max of 230 (94 head FTL).
From 6000 to 6800 it drops pretty sharply to 9psi. At 7200 I was at 8.5psi avg, 235rwhp and like 175ftlbs. Also at 120F IAT and 210coolant temps. My second run of 241hp was at 140IAT & 220coolant haha.

So I should have said I made 249rwhp @ 11.5 psi @ 6000rpm. Lo siento.
-or-
235rwhp @8.5psi @ 7200

If i can find my memory stick that works with windows 98 (or a new memory stick with win98 drivers :vash: ) I will transfer the screenshot of the log.

Again this manifold spools ~350 rpm slower than my version1 begi/fm replacement mani. While I never dynoed my version 2 while I had it (skidude's new mani), it felt quicker than the version 1. But this manifold feel better up top by a noticable amount, when it holds 14psi to 7200 on the street. So whatever.