You're going over the top so you have a lot less movement in your piping and less weight ::shrug::

My new set up is similar to yours, however, I'm using beaded piping and t-bolts. If I pop couplers now, I'm going to be bullsh*t.



-Zach

 

exactly what I was thinking to do... Where did you get the silicone pipping?

Nvm lol

 

Yesterday i had my pipe from the turbo come out (i guess it wasnt tightened enough after i installed my boost controller). Scared the ---- out of me since i'm still tunning. Going at 10psi in boost and all the sudden pussshhhhh. Craziest sound ever.

 

Will I need to use the MAF/AFM on the Shanghai-S kit?

 

It's on my build page. Keep in mind over the top set ups require either alterations to the radiator mounts or a sawzall and hammer to the core support and hood.

 

What are you planning on doing with the fueling issue?

 

Not sure... lol. Just ordered a Shanghai-s kit and recently ordered a mspnp2.

 

Well if you're going ms2 then you wont need to worry about a maf as the ms2 uses a map sensor. Install the MS unit first and then after you have that running good install the turbo kit.

If you install the turbo kit first without dealing with the fueling, you'll be the guy making a blown motor thread.

 

Here's how I went around my DIY IC piping on the last setup

1) Used this pipe for BOV
T-pipe
2) Used an NB throttle body. It doesn't need a fitting for Idle control valve, eliminating the need for that hose
3) I put my AIT sensor into the intercooler end tank, eliminating the need for a fitting on the piping


If I had to do it again I'd just get fittings welded. Local shop welds aluminum bungs for $30-45 all day long.

 

nice, I was thinking of getting the Tial BOV w/ the adapter from begi and get it welded at a local shop.

Sp, it's not safe to run the shanghai-s kit with the intercooler and stock ecu?? I'm really curious since this is my first time playing the turbo game.





Anyways, I got the price from Brandon Fitch from Flyin' Miata for "everything" I may need. Tell me what I don't really need and what I need. I purchased an Intercooler from Bikersam. I'm going to fabricate some ghetto-riged mounts for the intercooler.

[specs for Intercooler]
IC 21"x7"x2.5"



[Part list from Brandon]

[Quantity][Part][Price]

*(1) Throttle Body Junction Pipe 90-93 $54.95

*(1) Plug, Allen, 3/8NPT -- $1.00

*(1) Air filter mount pipe
Connects Filter to Elbow 90-05 --$34.95

*(1) 90-93 Comp to intercooler hose
(silicone) -- $105.95

*(1) IC outlet hose (Silicone)
silicone IC out pipe for new kit -- $119.00

*(1) Throttle Inlet Elbow (silicone)
1990-93&NB 90-93 and 99-05 -- $36.95

*(1) Compressor inlet hose, fits 2554 and
2560 -- $53.95

*(1) FM lower radiator hose w/ clamps
silicone, one piece hose -- $46.95

*(1) Filter, air current 90-05, turbo
kits except 1.6 voodoo -- $38.95

*(1) Silicone Hose 1.375"X2.5"
BLACK (blow off valve) -- $3.95

*(2) Hose Clamp 33-57mm
(blow off valve) -- $9.00

*(1) Hose Clamp 52-76mm
(IC hose joints) $4.50

*(1) Hose Clamp 59-83mm
(throttle body/AFM)-- $4.50

* (1) Hose clamp, T-bolt 57mm
2.25 inch $5.95

* (5) Hose clamp, T-bolt 70mm
2.75 inch -- $29.75

Total: $550.30


I don't think I need to re-route the coolant hoses, I don't have any powersteering or A/C components and I don't think I need the filter, since I have the filter coming from begi w/ the turbo kit.

I'm thinking of using the 1.8 injectors since they could handle more than the 1.6 (correct?) and upgrading the fuel pump...mmm... but then again, the shanghai-s comes with the fuel pressure regulator..

 

Looks Like I'll be using a 90 degrees coupler from the turbo and the silicone pipping down to the intercooler. Btw, I'm removing the belly plate.

 

Don't do that, or if you do, fabricate a new belly plate/pan. Running without one can cause overheating issues.

Do your homework mang, there's a number of intercooler threads both on here and CR with detailed pics.

-Zach

 

Man you got a lot of reading up to do. No not safe at all. Even little as 3 psi without modding your ---- will lean you to about 15afr.

 

Thanks, time to do more research

mm... I guess this is what the megasquirt is for.

 

Sounds like I will be needing a wideband. I have a FMU and fuel pressure regulator that came with the kit... if that helps a bit..

Got it.

 

Yes you WILL need a wideband.

Reality is you're not going to get a wideband plug installed on the stock piping just so you can remove it a month later and you will also need the wideband to tune the megasquirt so personally what i'd recomend doing is installing the turbo kit, the megasquirt and the wideband all together. After you install the turbo kit, unhook the wastegate from the flapper door and leave it open. Now tune the megasquirt with the turbo "disconnected". Which turbo did you get? If you didnt go too big it shouldn't be able to spool which will make tunning up to 100kpa much safer and easier. The fuel pressure regulator, is it a steady increase or is it a variable? Steady will be easier to tune with the megasquirt. I wouldnt even waste my time with the FMU.

 

The FMU came with the kit.. The turbo I got is a China Charger, journal bearing, Oil & Water cooled, and it's comparable to a GT2854. As for the fuel pressure regulator.. I'm not too sure. Here's the link for it 2025 FPR For Aftermarket Turbo and Supercharger. BEGI Bell Engineering / Cartech BEGi


Hm, my bank has been giving me problems lately, I'm in the process of looking for a used mspnp.

 

So I went a cheaper route and I'm about to purchase a MSPNP from another member on the forums. It comes with almost everything, but it's missing the IAT sensor (the plug part). Any Ideas where to get this? Is it crucial for everything to work properly?

 

Yes you need that. If you really want you can use the ait sensor in the AFM, but then you have to keep the huge AFM just for a tiny sensor. A new one can be had with a pigtail wiring harness for $20ish at diyautotune.com

As for that intercooler list, make sure you think about your setup for a long time, see if you can eliminate turns, or if 90* pipes and straight couplers might be cheaper than 90* couplers and straight pipes. Cx racing has really cheap pipe, couplers, and especially clamps. I'd definitely trust siliconeintake couplers more.

 

You'll need one of these if your piping is alluminum
3/8" NPT Aluminum Weld-On Bung for IAT or CLT Sensor DIYAutoTune.com

Or this if your piping is stainless
3/8" NPT Stainless Steel Weld-On Bung for IAT or CLT Sensor DIYAutoTune.com


And then heres your sensor.
GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail DIYAutoTune.com