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Old 12-10-2006, 07:38 PM   #1
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Default Small 16g rebuild

Well i finally got around to tearing into my turbo after alot of smoke etc. And it is surprisingly simpler than i thought it would be. After removing the turbo chra and compressor from the hotside exhaust housing by undoing the clamp. You proceed to remove the snap ring that holds the compressor in place. After removing the compressor both the turbine and compressor wheels and nuts are exposed. Next you will need a 12 mm 12 point socket for the turbine side and a 10 mm regular socket for the compressor side nut. The nuts and shaft are left hand thread so make sure you are going the right way or the nut will probably sheer of on you. Once the nut on the compressor side is removed the compressor wheel can be removed.
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Old 12-10-2006, 07:43 PM   #2
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After the compressor wheel is removed you will see a indented section with a snap ring holding the inner assembly in place. Once the snap ring is out then this shiny peice can be lifted free and you will see be faced with one thick and one thin peice of metal the thick peice being on the inside and primarily holding the bearing into place and the thin peice helping to channel oil flow to the drain. From this stage the inner o-ring wich is what failed on mine is visible. just look one shelf further inward from where the snap ring for the shinny peice behind the compressor wheel was.
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Old 12-10-2006, 07:50 PM   #3
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the thin peice and thick one, as well as a pic of the bearing. there is a hole in the thick peice to line it up with a stud that protrudes from the chra so re-assembly can only go one way if it doesn't fit make sure you have all the studs to where they can slide into place easily. from here you can tap the rod with a hammer lightly and the shaft hot side wheel and bearing will fall out. so far as i can tell from mine there is no difference in the two bearings but i wouldnt mix them up if i could help it. . between the thick peice and the bearing is a spacer. from here you simply replace whatever is worn or damaged and put it all back together.
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Old 12-10-2006, 07:58 PM   #4
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Default clocking the turbo

If your mitsu turbo was like mine then installing it stock made the oil flow point in the wrong direction to be usefull,(unless you know of a way to make oil drain up :gay and meant it needed to be clocked. here are a few tips when clocking the turbo unless you want to try a custom WG mounting situation and perhaps crappier boost control ie. either to loose or to tight. then it is simpler to rotate the turbine compressor section on the chra. TO rotate the turbine side you must first remove a small stud used for alignment on the sealing surface of the turbine. Be carefull not to nick the surface or do any damage to the mating surfaces. On the compressor side you will need to notch a relief in the backplate of the compressor section to clear another alignment stud be carefull not to damage the o-ring while doing this and make sure the relief is large enough to accomadate the stud or you will end up cracking the back plate upon reassembly and the snap ring wont seat correctly either. if you do any damage abit of silicone grey will do the trick to seal any inconsistancys. from here the chra can be orientated however you like and the compressor and turbine housings as well. I hope this helps
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