Heres a little plot twist, woke up this morning to find 3 broken FAB9 headstuds and a **** load of broken glass around my engine, looks like a glass tube light fell off the ceiling in my garage and hit my engine....not sure how this broke THREE torqued down headstuds. Ive already ordered ARP hardware and extracted the two bolts which were protruding once I pulled the head, unfortunately one is buried about 1cm deep in the block and I am completely lost on my next steps.

 

That is nuts man. I assume you are talking about ARP studs from FAB9? I'm running the same kit, no issues with mine. That must have been a hell of a hit, or they were overtorqued/fatigued and just waiting to snap. Weird.

 

Nah it was actually the FAB9 brand ultra duty headstuds which I bought over ARPs because of availability and because Greg@thecarpassionchannel chose to use them over arps in his latest build. The one stud broken in the head luckily wasn’t too hard to get out and my ARPs are supposed to come today with my supermiata trigger wheel.

 

engines assembled and timed, anyone got any good EFR sources before I hand FAB9 more money?

 

can anyone confirm if these two will work as water feed/return (respectively)

 

Very nice to see somebody doing it the right way and actually doing their homework for once, keep it up.

 

looks awesome!

 

I'm a BMW guy and the Getrags blow up with 300-400whp and a good bit of low end torque.

 

**** off and die, spammer.

 

He’s not wrong though…luckily we’re not gonna have the low end torque of a turbo 3L.

 

im back... going home from college in late May, and i have until the end of September to get this car sorted because I really fckn want to take it down to santa barbara next year. Currently: engines in, all lines are run apart from turbo oil drain, 5 speed trans still in there with an ACT 4 puck + lightweight flywheel and a custom 3 inch exhaust has been run with the big *** magnaflow. didn't get a chance to touch any electrical before I left for college. Want to get this thing geared to get 'decent' freeway mileage - anyone have experience with 6spd + 3.3 at around ~300whp? if the best move at this point is to go getrag, I want to get a headstart on ordering parts soon.

 

other option - keep the 5 speed + 4.1, drive/tune the car like it doesnt have a built engine, and work on a 8hp swap once i take it down to college since i can basically build/fab anything with the tools i have access to down here compared to what i have at home.

 

Need help asap, finally got the car to build pressure (14psi indicated on external gauge) with plugs out and injector fuse out. With the plugs and fuse in, its pissing oil somewhere out the front, seems to be a down low leak which is getting on the belt. Now that I know the pump is working (I hope), any ideas on what could cause this? Front main was allegedly replaced with an OEM by a shop by the last person I had check it out.

 

One of the oil pump bolt holes will leak if it doesn't have a bolt in it.

 

C

Could this much oil be coming from down low or is it a cam seal?

 

update, the two oil pump bolts visible (including the AC hole bolt) were not that tight, I could tighten them with a wrench. Should I tighten these two and try to start again or pull everything off the front and check the rest?

 

I believe there is a plug in the front of some oil pumps which are for the dipstick in a FWD setup. Maybe check for that?

Is it a boundary pump?

 

Checked the plug, it seemed loose (yes it is a boundary pump) so I tapped it in hard enough with an 18 inch extension to slightly warp the metal lol. Two of the oil pump bolts (the visible ones) I was able to hand tighen with a wrench, after that the down low leak seemed to stop. Now I have to replace the intake cam seal, which is also pissing out oil lol. Just for reference, is 15-20 psi of oil while cranking reasonable (can I try to start the car)?

 

I mean, it's your car, you can do whatever you want. If anything 15-20 PSI when cranking is higher than I'd expect, but I've only got 1 engine under my belt and I don't remember what values are expected. I'd probably expect closer to 5-10 PSI, but I suppose it depends on the engine components, oil weight, ambient temp, etc...

I'd say go for it and hope for the best

 

If its making 20psi cranking, and not pissing oil, start it up and monitor for leaks.

once you fire it up your break-in begins. I recommend firing it, getting it to idle, and set base timing. After that give it some light revs, if it runs and no leaks hop in it asap for break in. You'll wanna see lots of vacuum (engine braking) to seat those rings, slowly increasing rpms.

Basically don't let it idle for 30m to break it in. That's the worst thing you can do.