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Old 11-04-2011, 12:21 AM   #1
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Default SR20 setups?

I bought a T25 SR20 turbo and I plan on using it with the FM manifold/dp. As you can see, I need to clock the turbo:



My question, is for those who are running the SR20 turbo's, which way did you clock the turbo (also, detailed writeup with pretty pictures for a noob on how to do this would be much appreciated)

And also, how did you modify the wastegate? Is there an adapter I can buy somewhere?
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:24 AM   #2
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Loosen bolts, stick pipe in outlet, pull.
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie View Post
Loosen bolts, stick pipe in outlet, pull.
Use a broom end or something similar so you dont damage ****.

Wait wait loosen bolts? You mean on the exhaust side? You sure you want to turn the oil and coolant passages too?
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
Use a broom end or something similar so you dont damage ****.


These bolts? (plus the other two on the other side)
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:39 AM   #5
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Oh yah, I was thinking it was a big boy turbo.
The compressor is help in place by a big cir-clip type thing
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:42 AM   #6
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To clock the turbo, you just loosen the 4 bolts that hold the turbine housing to the CHRA. On some turbo's this might instantly loosen the thing and you can turn it by hand. On turbo's that are damn near welded together, you need to get more creative. Usually the following only applies to a turbine housing, but might be necessary on compressor side on unusually difficult turbo.

Soak in PB Blaster overnight. Soak in Liquid Wrench all day. Put entire turbo in FREEZER overnight. Next morning, hit compressor housing with BLOWTORCH and get it nice and hot... then hit housing hard with rubber mallet... REAL HARD. Have dog blanket or something laying on the round for it to fall on. Don't set dog-blanket on fire. Don't pick up compressor housing with bare hand until cool.

Or instead of rubber-mallet method... small but firm taps with ball-peen hammer will work but take longer.

I have a thread somewhere on this.
Here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...&highlight=t25
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:50 AM   #7
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Ok, so I DO have to loosen the bolts pictured above?

There are no bolts attached to the compressor housing.
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:13 AM   #8
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Well, that wasn't so hard...


Now, can I just rotate it slightly like this, so that the outlet isn't hitting the manifold? Then somehow bend the actuator so it re-attaches to the wg arm?

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SR20 setups?-pb030079.jpg   SR20 setups?-pb030080.jpg  
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:28 AM   #9
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I'm still curious if having the housing rotated around would cause any issues.
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:37 AM   #10
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Well, you want to rotate the CHRA so the oil drain and oil feed are perpendicular to the ground. Then you want to pop the c-clip on the compressor side and rotate it to the desired position. Now, I have an NB so I clocked mine straight up so I can run a 90 out of the compressor outlet and didn't need to mess with the wastegate bracket, but I don't know if you can do that on an NA(I'm a noob). But this is what my set up looks like if it helps:
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SR20 setups?-2011-11-03_23-32-42_362.jpg   SR20 setups?-2011-11-03_23-30-09_171.jpg  
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:37 AM   #11
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This might be an issue. I think it's the oil inlet? It's pointing at where the turbo and manifold bolt together. I think there's an L shaped adapter I can get from begi that would get around this though.
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:55 AM   #12
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You cant do that. It has to stay vertical or the oil wont drain. Youre not supposed to go more than 20 degrees from vertical, youre at like 90, lol.

Now that the exh housing is off, you shuld be able to get the circlip out with the right kind of pliers. Then youll be able to rotate the compressor housing, which is what you need to rotate. Youll end up putting the exhaust housing back on the way it was.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:05 AM   #13
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Clocking the compressor housing is really easy. Just do what I did in this picture. MAKE SURE YOU SET THE OIL INLET AND OIL DRAIN POSITIONS CORRECTLY BEFORE MESSING WITH THE COMPRESSOR HOUSING, OTHERWISE YOU WILL HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN IF YOU CHANGE THE CHRA POSITION IN THE TURBINE HOUSING



Once you bolt the turbo down on the manifold so it's facing upwards, use a broom handle (stick it in the compressor outlet) and pull in the direction you wish. There will be some slight resistance, but it will do as you please; if not, use more force until is does
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuy85 View Post
This might be an issue. I think it's the oil inlet? It's pointing at where the turbo and manifold bolt together. I think there's an L shaped adapter I can get from begi that would get around this though.
That should be your coolant feed/return
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:22 AM   #15
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I got a pair of these from harbor freight for like $6 and they worked great for getting the c clamp off the compressor and it rotated really easy. No broom handle needed
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
To clock the turbo, you just loosen the 4 bolts that hold the turbine housing to the CHRA. On some turbo's this might instantly loosen the thing and you can turn it by hand. On turbo's that are damn near welded together, you need to get more creative. Usually the following only applies to a turbine housing, but might be necessary on compressor side on unusually difficult turbo.

Soak in PB Blaster overnight. Soak in Liquid Wrench all day. Put entire turbo in FREEZER overnight. Next morning, hit compressor housing with BLOWTORCH and get it nice and hot... then hit housing hard with rubber mallet... REAL HARD. Have dog blanket or something laying on the round for it to fall on. Don't set dog-blanket on fire. Don't pick up compressor housing with bare hand until cool.

Or instead of rubber-mallet method... small but firm taps with ball-peen hammer will work but take longer.

I have a thread somewhere on this.
Here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...&highlight=t25
Way to overkill this to living death.

Just spray that **** and let it sit then put a breaker bar on the bitch and don't be a *****. if i can do it sew can ewe
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:05 PM   #17
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for the wastegate , dont bend the actuator arm!you'll have to make a little bracket to hold the acutator in its new position.Its not hard at all .
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:13 PM   #18
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Which direction do you guys have the compressor outlet pointing after you clock it? Don't have my intercooler setup yet, so I'm trying to figure out which would be the easiest way. I have a begi cast manifold. Straight up/outwards towards the fender or more downwards?
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:18 PM   #19
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Are you running A/C? If not, then I have a photo for you!
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:11 PM   #20
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A/C and powersteering are both gone.
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