SR20DET turbo w/ Flyin' Miata maifold
Hello friends. I'm trying to mount my sr20 turbo onto the manifold but the turbo outlet is in the way. I'm trying not to clock (rotate) it. I am thinking about getting a t25 flange extender. Similar to the attached photo. Does anyone make those? I can't seem to find one.
What I think happened is that you went extremely cheap on the turbo. I am guessing this based on the amount of rust it is covered in. Because of this you cannot loosen the bolts to clock it.
If you dont clock, will your oil supply and drain lines be oriented correctly? I can't tell from your photo but when I got my SR20 turbo I needed to clock it not only for intercooler routing but also so the turbo would be properly lubed and cooled.
I guess you could maybe grind down the triangle flange and that might get you clearance but really it just needs to be clocked.
I guess you could maybe grind down the triangle flange and that might get you clearance but really it just needs to be clocked.
Search my old posts or posts of the dozens of other members that clocked the SR20 T25 and ran it successfully on the FM manifold.
Don't reinvent the wheel here...
Don't reinvent the wheel here...
Wasn't thinking looking for lazy route. Extender/adapter equals more chance of leaks. Spraying pb blaster soon. Turbo was from friends car ran perfect. He just upgraded I'm going to clean it before I put everything on. Looking for injectors(450cc) atm please email if anyone is selling a set l4nthonyl@yahoo.com
I did the same thing last week. I soaked it in PB Blaster for like 2 days and that really didn't help at all. It was fused together pretty good. I ended up taking it to a local turbo shop and they just smacked it a few times with a brass hammer.
I'm also doing an sr20 t25 build. You will need to clock it for the oil drain to be facing down correctly. You will also need to find a way to mount the wastegate after you clock it.
The t25 that I originally had couldn't be clocked after 2 hours of labor at the shop. It was very fused together. So I just went and bought a freshly rebuilt one instead.
The t25 that I originally had couldn't be clocked after 2 hours of labor at the shop. It was very fused together. So I just went and bought a freshly rebuilt one instead.
I'm also doing an sr20 t25 build. You will need to clock it for the oil drain to be facing down correctly. You will also need to find a way to mount the wastegate after you clock it.
The t25 that I originally had couldn't be clocked after 2 hours of labor at the shop. It was very fused together. So I just went and bought a freshly rebuilt one instead.
The t25 that I originally had couldn't be clocked after 2 hours of labor at the shop. It was very fused together. So I just went and bought a freshly rebuilt one instead.
Got mine for $75 with a broken stud on the DP flange, which was another $65 I think in machine work, plus $90 in a gopopshop.com rebuild kit. So all said and done it was $230 for a rebuild unit.
The T28 is definitely the better unit, but as stated above it's much harder to find and more expensive.
The T28 is definitely the better unit, but as stated above it's much harder to find and more expensive.







