Notices
DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Stainless braided lines

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:27 AM
  #21  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,198
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

Yeah, angle and hardness of material, as well as how strong any cast parts are. I think harness and angle were my problem on one fitting, it dug a line in the angled dealing surface and wouldn't seal. Replaced with aero quip.
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:39 AM
  #22  
Erat's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
Total Cats: 830
From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Default

Believe it or not, the anodize finish plays a factor in how hard the material is. Ideally you want a Type III finish (hardcoat) which would provide the most thickness and best wear resistance.
Imagine if you take the fitting on and off 10 times the finish is what will wear down create gaps and leak.

I do see what you're saying. If for some reason the sealing surface isn't exactly 37* or is slightly out of round, whatever, it will also leak.
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #23  
bahurd's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 2,408
Total Cats: 316
Default

Originally Posted by hornetball
Aeroquip has an FAA-approved quality system to make these parts for aircraft. The ones for aircraft use ("AN" stamped on them) will be made in USA. Aircraft Spruce is a good source if you want to be sure you're getting the highest quality parts. Some of the prices are comparable. Others . . . .
Yes, it sucks to have a hydraulic system spew fluid at 35K feet. I've attached a decent FAA document about fittings and lines. Not hard reading and has a decent amount of technical information.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...83-30_Ch07.pdf
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:52 AM
  #24  
bahurd's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 2,408
Total Cats: 316
Default

Originally Posted by Erat
Believe it or not, the anodize finish plays a factor in how hard the material is. Ideally you want a Type III finish (hardcoat) which would provide the most thickness and best wear resistance.
Imagine if you take the fitting on and off 10 times the finish is what will wear down create gaps and leak.

I do see what you're saying. If for some reason the sealing surface isn't exactly 37* or is slightly out of round, whatever, it will also leak.
Remember, you have 2 surfaces that needs to seal. The flare side and the fitting side. Both need to be within the tolerance to seal at the recommended torque.
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 11:08 AM
  #25  
Erat's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
Total Cats: 830
From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Default

Totally agree.
Old Dec 8, 2014 | 09:15 AM
  #26  
concealer404's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,917
Total Cats: 2,206
Default

Originally Posted by Erat
Wait a minute. Did Ben start both of those threads? ^^

Yes. And that car blew up.

I'm sure it was because i used Ebay fittings on my breathers.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Full_Tilt_Boogie
Build Threads
84
Apr 12, 2021 04:21 PM
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
Sep 30, 2018 01:09 PM
Quinn
Cars for sale/trade
6
Oct 23, 2016 07:58 AM
cale saurage
DIY Turbo Discussion
16
Oct 1, 2015 11:25 AM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:48 PM.