stock 1.6 oil return port question
So I am currently getting my turbo kit together and I was reading the thread on here with the information regarding everything relating to turbo setups and in the thread.it.mentions that the stock 1.6L motor has an oil return port located by the oil filter. However I am trying to figure out why in the thread it mentions.using this can be a headache in the long run.
Any info on why this is problematic? I did some research but.no one mentions specifically what the problem is so any help would be great. Thanks Colton |
It's on the wrong side of the block. And because they're gravity fed, you need to keep it pointed downhill at all times. So you're either wrapping it around the back where you can't see it or in front with all the pulleys or belts.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 926288)
It's on the wrong side of the block. And because they're gravity fed, you need to keep it pointed downhill at all times. So you're either wrapping it around the back where you can't see it or in front with all the pulleys or belts.
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You get one loop and it doesnt drain properly, you say bye bye to oil seals
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Yeah, I ran this oil return location for waay too long. Needless to say my oil pan has been tapped and running correctly for a while now, and I would highly recommend you tap it right away so you don't burn oil.
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Thanks guys ha ha good to know that's a very poor design considering they give us a feed but a return on the opposite side of the block dur dur dur. Tapping it will be then. I'm pretty sure they said a 10x1.25 for the bung going into the pan correct?
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Originally Posted by coltonr
(Post 926464)
Tapping it will be then. I'm pretty sure they said a 10x1.25 for the bung going into the pan correct?
Most commonly, people around here use a 1/2" NPT thread, as adapter fittings are commonly available which will screw into this and then mate with a -10AN for the drain line itself. |
I used this and a 3/8 brass npt barb.
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=192 Applied JB weld to the threads, threaded it in, applied more jb weld on the outside. Worked like a charm |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 926568)
I used this and a 3/8 brass npt barb.
BEGi Oil Pan Drill Bit and Tap Set BEGi Applied JB weld to the threads, threaded it in, applied more jb weld on the outside. Worked like a charm |
I bought a cheap 9/16" drill bit from Lowe's for like $8 and a $8 3/8" NPT tap from McMaster and it worked fine. It's really not as hard as I was expecting, just nerve-wracking.
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Originally Posted by coltonr
(Post 926464)
Thanks guys ha ha good to know that's a very poor design considering they give us a feed but a return on the opposite side of the block dur dur dur.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 926701)
Just to back up Mazda on this one, you have to remember our engine came from a FWD turbo application, so the engine was sideways in the bay, unlike ours. And that capped drain was for a catch can IIRC, not the turbo.
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2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by coltonr
(Post 926746)
I guess that's true I'm surprised they still wouldn't try n keep stuff together on the same side of the block.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1347595707 |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 926749)
Remember- the FWD/AWD engines had a different oil pan. They did keep everything together on the same side- we just don't have the same hardware in the MX5 fitment as they did on the GTX:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1347595707 |
Originally Posted by coltonr
(Post 926753)
Oh cool thanks for the diagram that makes things quite a bit clearer shame we.never got.offered that.motor from the factory as an option
If they came turbo they would be much more expensive, not as many would be around, the motors would beaten up and more expensive, more ricers would have miatas, etc. I kind of like the little known fact that our B6/BP motors are basically boost ready and strong as shit. |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 926947)
While I agree it is a shame, its also a blessing. Keep in mind how cheap these cars are now days, and how cheap replacement motors/chassis are when you wreck them.
If they came turbo they would be much more expensive, not as many would be around, the motors would beaten up and more expensive, more ricers would have miatas, etc. I kind of like the little known fact that our B6/BP motors are basically boost ready and strong as shit. Iron block ftw! |
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