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Old 09-13-2012, 03:32 AM   #1
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Default stock 1.6 oil return port question

So I am currently getting my turbo kit together and I was reading the thread on here with the information regarding everything relating to turbo setups and in the thread.it.mentions that the stock 1.6L motor has an oil return port located by the oil filter. However I am trying to figure out why in the thread it mentions.using this can be a headache in the long run.
Any info on why this is problematic?
I did some research but.no one mentions specifically what the problem is so any help would be great.

Thanks

Colton
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:46 AM   #2
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It's on the wrong side of the block. And because they're gravity fed, you need to keep it pointed downhill at all times. So you're either wrapping it around the back where you can't see it or in front with all the pulleys or belts.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
It's on the wrong side of the block. And because they're gravity fed, you need to keep it pointed downhill at all times. So you're either wrapping it around the back where you can't see it or in front with all the pulleys or belts.
Ooh alright that makes considerably more sense then tapping the pan is def a better option then
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:45 AM   #4
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You get one loop and it doesnt drain properly, you say bye bye to oil seals
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:57 AM   #5
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Yeah, I ran this oil return location for waay too long. Needless to say my oil pan has been tapped and running correctly for a while now, and I would highly recommend you tap it right away so you don't burn oil.
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #6
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Thanks guys ha ha good to know that's a very poor design considering they give us a feed but a return on the opposite side of the block dur dur dur. Tapping it will be then. I'm pretty sure they said a 10x1.25 for the bung going into the pan correct?
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coltonr View Post
Tapping it will be then. I'm pretty sure they said a 10x1.25 for the bung going into the pan correct?
It doesn't really matter what specific thread you put in the pan, it just needs to match whatever fitting you're going to screw into it.

Most commonly, people around here use a 1/2" NPT thread, as adapter fittings are commonly available which will screw into this and then mate with a -10AN for the drain line itself.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:33 PM   #8
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I used this and a 3/8 brass npt barb.

http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=192

Applied JB weld to the threads, threaded it in, applied more jb weld on the outside. Worked like a charm
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
I used this and a 3/8 brass npt barb.

BEGi Oil Pan Drill Bit and Tap Set BEGi

Applied JB weld to the threads, threaded it in, applied more jb weld on the outside. Worked like a charm
Thanks for the link ha
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:51 PM   #10
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I bought a cheap 9/16" drill bit from Lowe's for like $8 and a $8 3/8" NPT tap from McMaster and it worked fine. It's really not as hard as I was expecting, just nerve-wracking.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coltonr View Post
Thanks guys ha ha good to know that's a very poor design considering they give us a feed but a return on the opposite side of the block dur dur dur.
Just to back up Mazda on this one, you have to remember our engine came from a FWD turbo application, so the engine was sideways in the bay, unlike ours. And that capped drain was for a catch can IIRC, not the turbo.
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Just to back up Mazda on this one, you have to remember our engine came from a FWD turbo application, so the engine was sideways in the bay, unlike ours. And that capped drain was for a catch can IIRC, not the turbo.
I guess that's true I'm surprised they still wouldn't try n keep stuff together on the same side of the block.
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coltonr View Post
I guess that's true I'm surprised they still wouldn't try n keep stuff together on the same side of the block.
Remember- the FWD/AWD engines had a different oil pan. They did keep everything together on the same side- we just don't have the same hardware in the MX5 fitment as they did on the GTX:

Attached Thumbnails
stock 1.6 oil return port question-270440_22_full.jpg  
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Remember- the FWD/AWD engines had a different oil pan. They did keep everything together on the same side- we just don't have the same hardware in the MX5 fitment as they did on the GTX:

Oh cool thanks for the diagram that makes things quite a bit clearer shame we.never got.offered that.motor from the factory as an option
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coltonr View Post
Oh cool thanks for the diagram that makes things quite a bit clearer shame we.never got.offered that.motor from the factory as an option
While I agree it is a shame, its also a blessing. Keep in mind how cheap these cars are now days, and how cheap replacement motors/chassis are when you wreck them.

If they came turbo they would be much more expensive, not as many would be around, the motors would beaten up and more expensive, more ricers would have miatas, etc.

I kind of like the little known fact that our B6/BP motors are basically boost ready and strong as ****.
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:29 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
While I agree it is a shame, its also a blessing. Keep in mind how cheap these cars are now days, and how cheap replacement motors/chassis are when you wreck them.

If they came turbo they would be much more expensive, not as many would be around, the motors would beaten up and more expensive, more ricers would have miatas, etc.

I kind of like the little known fact that our B6/BP motors are basically boost ready and strong as ****.

Iron block ftw!
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