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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-31-2009, 11:39 PM   #1
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Default T3 build

Sorry for those of you who have read my intro post, this is basically a cut and paste, but I thought the post would be appropriate here.

The miata is my first car. Just wanted to turbo my 90' just for fun and the learning experience. I'm going to go the unconventional way and boost first, HP data after. Bought a T3 50 trim, custom manifold flanged to T3, and intercooler off a member. Slowly pieced together parts senior year of high school and finally putting everything together 6 months later. About less than a week into the project and taking a break because spring classes started at sjsu. Coming back home this weekend and expecting to at least get it up and running. So far this is what I've got:
-T3 50 trim
-manifold
-2.25" steel dp to the cat made by local muffler shop ($180 )
-welded on nut for O2 bung
-$10 autozone online "exhaust gaskets" (not quite sure how those are going to hold up)
-12:1 vortech fmu
-36" SS oil feed -4AN on one side, 1/8" NPT on the other
--4AN turbo oil feed flange 3mm restricted
-Removed complete A/C system
-waayyy oversized intercooler and 2.5" aluminum piping all the way
-Oil return
-Mechanical boost controller

Here's what I need to do:
-wait for my oil feed adapter
-wait for my 2.5" to 2" turbo outlet reducer

Planning to buy MSPNP maybe a few years into college but I don't have the money for it yet. I'm probably going to stick with stock psi just to get it running so hopefully I won't be needing any timing retard devices or bigger injectors yet. I might go 8 degrees just in case. Sorry for the long *** post. Open to any criticisms and suggestions. Wouldn't want my engine blowing up when i start it. Remember, I am doing this only by myself but have access to a lift and standard shop tools. Thanks in advance.

Thomas

The girlfriend was over and took pictures so she wouldn't get bored So here they are
T3 build-n595861132_2523939_662.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523925_6339.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523930_7664.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523935_9023.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523933_8483.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523891_8106.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523905_1148.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523944_1591.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523951_2934.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523882_6316.jpg T3 build-n707864244_2044274_6993.jpg T3 build-n595861132_2523899_9798.jpg
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Old 01-31-2009, 11:43 PM   #2
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cool. post progress as it takes place
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Old 01-31-2009, 11:46 PM   #3
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will do. sorry its almost done already.. hopefully
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Old 01-31-2009, 11:48 PM   #4
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you need to do something about that coolant line right next to the downpipe too. I'm trying to figure out what I'm going to do with mine too actually lol
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:40 AM   #5
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post pics of girlfriend (photographer) or ban
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:42 AM   #6
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You should clock the CHRA so the oil feed is more vertical, looks like you could have issues as it sits.
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:45 AM   #7
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And I don't see a fitting for a bypass/BOV.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
you need to do something about that coolant line right next to the downpipe too. I'm trying to figure out what I'm going to do with mine too actually lol
I just took the stock hose to my local autoparts store(checkers) and told the guy at the counter I needed a similar hose. He took me in the back where they have a wall of random tubes, and there I spent about 15 minutes to find the perfect one.

Although I have no idea what it was off, I can tell you the one I found was slightly smaller diameter and bends in around the downpipe area. I had to soak it in hot water and force it over the metal hardlines, but it fit great. It is about 2 inches away from the downpipe now(upgraded Greddy downpipe, practically no room), whereas the stock one was touching the downpipe. I also went ahead and wrapped my lines with heat wrap. I think its safe now.

Hope that helps.
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:27 AM   #9
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i love seeing kids doing this ****. I wish i had that kind of skill 10+ years ago.
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:42 PM   #10
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You should clock the CHRA so the oil feed is more vertical, looks like you could have issues as it sits.
I was under the impression that the angle could be off up to 15 or 30 degrees from vertical. I didn't realize it was off when I was clocking the compressor housing and was too lazy to remove the hoses and compressor housing again. However, if this will be a serious problem I will definitely reclock it, thanks.

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And I don't see a fitting for a bypass/BOV.
I did add a idle air bypass fitting and connect the hose to that with teflon tape and jb weld. I havent had a chance to pick up a BOV yet. I'm looking at the ebay ones for the premade flanged pipe. I actually happened to have to cut a pipe around the same size near the throttle body to route my IC piping. If the BOV that comes with it leaks, I have a stock evo8 one.
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:43 PM   #11
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post pics of girlfriend (photographer) or ban
now, now let's all be mature.
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
I just took the stock hose to my local autoparts store(checkers) and told the guy at the counter I needed a similar hose. He took me in the back where they have a wall of random tubes, and there I spent about 15 minutes to find the perfect one.

Although I have no idea what it was off, I can tell you the one I found was slightly smaller diameter and bends in around the downpipe area. I had to soak it in hot water and force it over the metal hardlines, but it fit great. It is about 2 inches away from the downpipe now(upgraded Greddy downpipe, practically no room), whereas the stock one was touching the downpipe. I also went ahead and wrapped my lines with heat wrap. I think its safe now.

Hope that helps.
Thanks for the heads up. I think my hose barely clears the DP so I might just try to secure it somewhere as far as possible and heat wrap it.
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:10 PM   #13
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Protect those brake lines and the master cylinder from the heat of the turbine housing and downpipe or you might have a very, very bad day. A simple piece of sheet metal between them will make a big difference in the amount of heat transferred.

Good luck.
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:23 PM   #14
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Protect those brake lines and the master cylinder from the heat of the turbine housing and downpipe or you might have a very, very bad day. A simple piece of sheet metal between them will make a big difference in the amount of heat transferred.

Good luck.
Thanks. I am planning to make a bolted steel heat shield sometime in the near future, but what would you guys suggest for a good one week or so temporary heat shield? Will just heat wrap do for now? Anyone have experience with any good quality heat wrap?
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thmharada View Post

-2.25" steel dp to the cat made by local muffler shop ($180 )
Fail. You are going to get the setup together, drive it once, and kick yourself hard for not doing a 2.5 or 3" DP. All the best-spooling cars here have 3" exhausts for a reason.

Consider building an MS yourself. Once you use one, you'll wonder why you ever dicked with an AFPR.

Everything else looks good. Good luck.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:14 PM   #16
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In the very first pic I believe I see a T2-T3 adapter with two gaskets. Those two gaskets are two failure points. I suggest removing the gaskets and run it metal to metal. If the two surfaces are perfectly flat, it will seal and not need a gasket. Also, use a bit of heavy grease on the two surfaces as this will burn and turn into carbon, sealing them up. Most here don't run gaskets between the turbo and manifold as they're notorious for leaking. Gasket can't leak if it's not there.

That down pipe will probably work, but bigger is better for sure. Also, try to make as much clearance as possible from the down pipe to other things, such as brake lines and hoses.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
I just took the stock hose to my local autoparts store(checkers) and told the guy at the counter I needed a similar hose. He took me in the back where they have a wall of random tubes, and there I spent about 15 minutes to find the perfect one.

Although I have no idea what it was off, I can tell you the one I found was slightly smaller diameter and bends in around the downpipe area. I had to soak it in hot water and force it over the metal hardlines, but it fit great. It is about 2 inches away from the downpipe now(upgraded Greddy downpipe, practically no room), whereas the stock one was touching the downpipe. I also went ahead and wrapped my lines with heat wrap. I think its safe now.

Hope that helps.
Good stuff. I think I'll do the same
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:35 AM   #18
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How did this end up?
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