LOL, I took mine. Mercedes is broke. Again. Which makes me broke.

Ben you need to sell that thing and move on once you get it running. It's sucking your life blood.

^ Amen brotha.

actually:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...1&d=1206133973

it's pretty straight down now.


as far as the hose is concerned. i wish it was 21" in length....

It has to be the manifold then. I cant get mine on without notching, or clocking the turbo.

let me PM me you so I dont thread crap.

is da turbo. my T3 is designed, better.


a BFH make notching easy....or so does a cut off wheel.

Hellz Yeah!
 

Its running again....now if i can only get it into gear that would help....going back out to bleed the clutch line again. enjoy these pics.

I'm jealous, must be nice to be back.

i cant wait to see that thing in person

Omg That Air Filter Is Sweet!!!!!!!

Why?

At first I thought you were some Noob padding his post count, but you're not, so I have to ask why you think his air filter is sweet?

cause his little turd of an air filter sucks.....


bad news, can't get the clutch to disengage. hydraulics work, line bled fully.

i can ram it in gear if i match the revs, the wheels instant start to spin. Doesn't look like im making the dyno day.

:ugh: Man, That sucks.....

Can you adjust the rod length like neo had to, is that even an option in this case? (tranny swap newb)

i dont believe the miata slave rod is adjustable on any year. I told scott to go back out and re-flush the whole system and re-bleed it. he was able to get it into gear a little easier after pumping the clutch up.

The rod is adjustable under the dash. I couldn't get my car in gear very well after the ACT Xtreme clutch swap and the first 1" or so of the pedal travel was doing nothing. Loosen the lock nut on the rod attached to the clutch pedal and then torn the rod until there is no freeplay.

is your slave cylinder good? mine blew out about a week ago or so and i had the same exact problem you are having now....

:werd: takes 2 wrenches, and it's a PITA to get in there.
http://www.miata.net/garage/adjust_clutch/index.html
try this before replacing your slave cylinder.

I had to adjust my ACT up a little after break-in, due to similar symptoms to what you're describing. I've now got my clutch at pretty much the top of the pedal with the minimum specified free play.

and it's an extra PITA with a full cage and aluminum racing seat bolted to the floor- but it has worked miracles for most clutches in my experience

Watch out for that sharp edge on the back of the pedal arm. It will rip your hand big time.

u have a whole week, get on it, if im driving 500 miles, u better effin bring that thing

nope, i have a feeling the input shaft is hitting the clutch disc and wedging it against the flywheel instead of releasing it....which means i gotta drop my tranny and try again.

???

Your saying the clutch disk is seized onto the input shaft or something, and draging against the flywheel? I doubt it.

More likely, you have air in the master cylinder and didn't bench bleed it.

not quite. you want about 1/4" of freeplay. If you don't have any freeplay, you are putting a preload on your throwout bearing. You don't want that. ;)

Yeap, good way to wear it out prematurely. I have like a 3/4" of freeplay right now, gotta adjust it again.

clutch plate on back to front? (oops, I did that to a fwd corolla, no more beers before the job is done)

it's bled, i found old post on m.net that sounds like my problem. my clutch disc is incompatible with my PP. since i swapped in a clutchnet disc into my centreforce PP. this guy had the same exact issue, it ended up the new disc was too thick and the diameter was slightly different and it wouldn't release, put his old disc in and it was fine. Suffice to say, im ordering a new PP tomorrow.

Hope it gets here by next eek

Well, that sounds fishy to me. I wouldn't be throwing parts at it until you know what the problem is. You say it's bled, so hopefully there is no air in the master either, since you bench bled it, right? I wouldn't assume anything is right just because you didn't mess with it. If you think there's a problem with the clutch disk itself, somehow, pull it apart and verify it before you buy something you may not need. I don't see the diff diameter causing problems unless it was bigger than the flywheel or PP surface. Surely you set it on them and had a look right? I mean, you should know if it's OD is too big or not. If it's too thick, then yea that could be the problem. However, you might could adjust that out with the pedal, assuming there is zero air in the lines.

needz more pc pros...

ps: too much reading... my eyes are hurting after page 1...

well that's exactly what i think, I think not only are the friction surfaces different sizes, the clutch itself is significantly thicker. where the cover for the springs are stands up a lot further than the disc i removed, and it seems as the diameter of that itself may be larger....

look at these two discs:

stock:
http://www.m24x.com/img/clutch101/exedy_disk.jpg

clutchnet:
http://www.m24x.com/img/clutch101/six_puck_sprung.jpg

the spring cover on the hub is significantly larger diameter than the stock disc, as well as taller. So it's easy that there is a chance the friction surface of the pressure plate I'm using is not designed for this and the friction surface is hitting that area:





so if the PP's friction surface is smaller in diameter, even by 2-3mm, it could be easily pressing against the spring cover. I dunno, either way, might as well just get the matching pressure plate that i know will work. either way I still need to drop the tranny, if it's that i didn't align the disc correctly or that the PP really won't work, i still need to drop it.

HEY WANNA B MODERATOR!!!! Chill out.

i just got off the phone with clutchnet. And like I suspected it's mainly fault of the PP. if it's not that the diameters are different, the weights on the diaphram of the PP are what are going to be hitting. So with that said, I'm ordering myself up a Red 2X PP tomorrow.

I had the same problem with my 3X PP and solid disk from them. They told me to put spacers (1/8th inch) between the pressure plate and the flywheel.

BTW it works fine now.