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Old 07-30-2008, 07:30 PM   #21
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your **** is going to overheat like whoa. Get ready to chop up the bumper.
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Old 07-30-2008, 09:23 PM   #22
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I have (almost) piece by piece that exact same setup. I've got a great fuel/timing table for your MS I can send you to get you started with decent numbers if you've got access to 93oct. 12psi=200whp and you can drive circles around S2000's.

A long time ago I removed the black plastic undertray and the air-funneler in the nose (running OEM auto-radiator) and have never had an overheating problem on the street... even in 110* Virginia heat. I've never had it on an open track so I can't comment on long-term heat issues, but your big radiator is a huge upgrade from mine. Get that black plastic **** out of there in any case.
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:09 AM   #23
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Sweet. I'll send you a PM... very interested in the timing table. There's 93 octane all over here in Texas.

Just wondering did remove the black plastic mouthpiece because it was causing problems? I kept it installed because I figured it would help with airflow to the radiator.


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I have (almost) piece by piece that exact same setup. I've got a great fuel/timing table for your MS I can send you to get you started with decent numbers if you've got access to 93oct. 12psi=200whp and you can drive circles around S2000's.

A long time ago I removed the black plastic undertray and the air-funneler in the nose (running OEM auto-radiator) and have never had an overheating problem on the street... even in 110* Virginia heat. I've never had it on an open track so I can't comment on long-term heat issues, but your big radiator is a huge upgrade from mine. Get that black plastic **** out of there in any case.
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:28 AM   #24
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Oh noes! I really do not want to do that. I'll try the reverse mini hood scoop ala m2cupcar before I cut the bumper! An oil cooler is on my list of things to add as well.

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your **** is going to overheat like whoa. Get ready to chop up the bumper.
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Old 07-31-2008, 01:53 AM   #25
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I had the stock crossover pipe ('93) for a few months before I got an intercooler, and if I revved up the engine while looking at the small accordian section it bulbed out A LOT. I put some zip ties around it to help keep its shape, but it was also expanding while in boost. $5 says that flex hose will do the same. awesome pics and descriptions, you'll help a lot of people with your explaination of all the plumbing hardware you used. I wish I would have thought of using your method for the oil temp sensor, I just drilled and tapped the drain plug.
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Old 07-31-2008, 10:48 AM   #26
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Yeah this is basicaly the setup that I have sitting at home....on a shelf...not doing anything...because I'm too lazy and waiting to buy the MSpNp.

Nice write up.

Oh and did you clock any part of the turbo at all?
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:01 AM   #27
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Thanks. Sorry, missed your second question from earlier. Yes, I had to clock the turbo! Here's how I did it:

Disconnect wastegate
Loosen bolts on exhaust housing side. The bolts are 1/2 SAE BTW. Don't use 13mm to bust them loose the first time, or you will risk stripping the heads.
Install turbo onto your car. Clock until oil drain is near vertical and tighten bolts.
Use the "broom stick" method to clock the compressor side. I actually used a 2 ft pipe stuck it into the compressor outlet. If you are worried about gouging the aluminum, use something wooden. I did not have problems though. I looked everywhere for snap ring pliers and there were none big enough so I went with this method. It feels brutal but not bad at all once you've tried it out.
Reconnect wastegate
Done!




Quote:
Originally Posted by MicaCeli View Post
Yeah this is basicaly the setup that I have sitting at home....on a shelf...not doing anything...because I'm too lazy and waiting to buy the MSpNp.

Nice write up.

Oh and did you clock any part of the turbo at all?

Last edited by tilt; 07-31-2008 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:19 AM   #28
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Thanks. I know what you are saying, it crossed my mind too. But, radiator hoses normally see 12-16psi of pressure (depending on your radiator cap). My turbo is good for about 12-13psi before it's out of it's efficiency range so based on that I think I should be ok.


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I had the stock crossover pipe ('93) for a few months before I got an intercooler, and if I revved up the engine while looking at the small accordian section it bulbed out A LOT. I put some zip ties around it to help keep its shape, but it was also expanding while in boost. $5 says that flex hose will do the same. awesome pics and descriptions, you'll help a lot of people with your explaination of all the plumbing hardware you used. I wish I would have thought of using your method for the oil temp sensor, I just drilled and tapped the drain plug.
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:29 AM   #29
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Cool thank you tilt. This might make me more willing to go and intall everything on my car now.....maybe
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Old 08-02-2008, 05:22 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tilt View Post
Thanks. I know what you are saying, it crossed my mind too. But, radiator hoses normally see 12-16psi of pressure (depending on your radiator cap). My turbo is good for about 12-13psi before it's out of it's efficiency range so based on that I think I should be ok.
My IC tubing had some peices that were unuseable. I bought some goodyear tubing that looks the exact same. It is rated for 275 degrees and it has a steel wire imbedded in the spiral.
I hope that it doesn't expand. But like you said it is rated for more psi. Otherwise it would slip off a car with 13-16psi from the water system.
If the ridges don't slow it down. They may help. Tornado's intake systems and throttle body spaces have a swirl design to spin the air into the intake.
LS1's from the factory also have this swirl design implemented into the intake system. It draws out a few more ponies in NA motors. But either way it goes, I'm sure it will be a major improvement away from stock.
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:59 AM   #31
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did you put some pipe dope or some teflon tape on that oil return fitting into the pan? in the pic it doesn't look like it, but maybe that pic was just taken of the fitup and not the final install. if you didn't paste or tape the threads on that fitting it will surely leak.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:57 AM   #32
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Will teflon tape hold up at those temps? I've seen it melt as lower temps.
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Old 08-09-2008, 10:46 PM   #33
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i would not use pipe dope or teflon tape. I used copper gasket sealant from autozone on my oil return line on my turbo integra gsr and 2 copper washers one on the inside and one on the outside. Its been 3 years and 50k miles and still no leak you will not need the copper washers in my opinion. I needed them due to fact an fitting had a nut on back and when completely tightened down was still loose.
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Old 08-09-2008, 10:49 PM   #34
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I think you have done a pretty good job on this install. My original hot side ic piping job the first time I did a diy turbo kit was not very good. I'm pretty interested in how you hotside holds up. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 08-12-2008, 03:18 AM   #35
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I'm in the process of addressing heat issues I may encounter. Here's what I've done so far...


Did a quick test fit of the alamoautosport turbo blanket. I still need to trim where the blanket comes in contact with the wastegate arm. It's a good fit apart from that.


Plugged the coolant hard line and rerouted the heater hose to the upper radiator hose.


Coolant hose goes to this adapter I got from advanced-autosports.com. You can't see it but I installed a water temp sensor on the opposite side.


Made a home despot run and decided to fab up a fan shroud.


Went with a pair of high flow 12" slim fans from vsracing.net. If you are wondering why they look different, it's because I bought one of them about 3 years ago. Same vendor though. I sealed off the shroud with weather stripping also from the home depot.


Fans and shroud installed. Yay.


Turbo Kitty! Meow
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:13 PM   #36
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Heat wrapped my downpipe.


Installed. The heat wrap smokes quite a bit during break in. I've heard it takes a few days to stop, yikes.
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:31 PM   #37
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Just a small update... I participated in a practice autox to test the car and iron out any issues.

It ran fine other than having a tendency to overheat. The IAT would also heatsoak and cause hard starts. For those that were wondering about the radiator hose used as charge piping, it is holding up fine so far. I was able to run about 4-6 runs before it would start to overheat then had to park the car for a while (Texas sun, 95 degree weather). I'll relocate the IAT and add more cooling mods soon.

I'm still running 7PSI so nothing spectacular. EBC will be hooked up soon.

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Old 09-02-2008, 04:57 PM   #38
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Congrats. Any idea why it was overheating? Lots of work on the rad and fans...just wondering.
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Old 09-02-2008, 05:55 PM   #39
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I have a hunch - If you look at the way I have my fan shroud installed, there is nothing dividing the radiator and condensor fans. The stock fans actually use 2 separate shrouds but mine is just one big shroud with no divider between fans.

I had my wiring setup to trigger only the single radiator fan (just like stock) so i think instead of pulling all air from the bumper mouth, it was sucking air from the non-running(condenser) fan opening on the engine side. Due to my oversight, I think it was circulating hot engine air. Fail.

So, currently I am trying to figure out how to wire up the parallel fan mod to the MSPNP. I'll try that. Next in line is an aftermarket oil cooler and extractor hood if I still have issues.

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Congrats. Any idea why it was overheating? Lots of work on the rad and fans...just wondering.
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:22 PM   #40
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that answers my question and your problem- IF MS goes to ground on fan control, you can use the wiring below with AC staying stock and the "thermoswitch/ground" going to the MS.
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