benluong23

Hi all, first post on here and im looking to put together a turbo kit and would like some input and feed back. Im going from my 1.6 itb setup on my 93 to a 1.8 (94) swap along with a turbo. My goal is to reliably produce 200 to the wheels. It will be a daily for now but eventual track use in the future, if funds permit. These are the parts I plan to order soon.
(flyin miata diy kit, 460cc rx7 inj, sr20 t25 turbo, cxracing IC kit, 949racing clutch, filter, ebay oil/wat lines, 2.5 exhaust )
I already have a obx fuel rail, vacuum block and mtx-l wideband, Diypnp2 from previous setup.

1. For the diy kit from flyin miata (dp,mani,elbow) aside from clocking the turbo and moving the wastegate, will these components bolt straight on to the t25 turbo?

2. Will the setup i am trying to pursue be a straight forward install or will there be a lot of custom fabricating going on? Anything i should be aware of before going into it?

3. Any recommendations or adjustments to the parts I am planning to get

THANKS!!!!!!

curly

iTrader: (25)

Nothing requires heavy fabrication per se, but there will be little things, like the intercooler kit. Everyone's requirements and space is different, don't assume a CX racing intercooler kit will fit without some cutting. I'm sure they mocked it up with no PS or AC, with a million couplers and bends.

The FM DIY kit will bolt up with the SR20 T25, although I had some issues with Abe's downpipe flange not fitting my SR20 T25, which he had never heard of before. Apparently there are some differences, just be prepared to hog out some holes a bit if necessary.

You'll also have to drill the pan for the oil return. Don't forget to pick up some JB weld, I speak from experience, it WILL leak without it.

Great choice on the clutch, can't wait to drive mine.

I'm assuming you have everything necessary for the 1.8 swap?

And be prepared to replace every ebay fitting/line you buy for the water and oil lines.

RedCarmel

iTrader: (7)

If you read my build thread you will see a photo of one of the holes on the FM cast elbow I had to enlarge to fit the turbo. It appears sometimes that's needed and other times it's not.

Are you DIYing the exhaust or buying it premade?

benluong23

Thanks for the insightful response curly, I know i heard great things about this clutch it was either between the 949 or the fm however I have the luxury to drive 30mins to 949 so this one takes it.

Yes i have all the parts ready and going to swap it soon and gonna get the clutch while in there

what do you mean about ebay oil/wat lines?

I read through your thread nice build very clean. Fingers crossed i dont get the one with that awkward oval.

Im going to have a muffler shop fab up an 2.5 exhaust, however I have heard that a 3 inch exhaust would be beneficial?

oh and quick question will i be reusing my fuel rail and vacuum block from my itb set up? im confused on this matter

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I dont see the need to reuse the vac block. There's like a billion vac ports on the manifold. I also dont think the 1.6 fuel rail fits the 1.8. When you mean ebay oil and water lines, you do mean buying those wicked cheap name brand lines that were made to oddball custom lengths and then werent purchased. Otherwise, AN fittings direct if you want to go cheap, and dont get their coated line, its a pain in the dick to work with.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Listen to Leafy on this one, I wouldn't trust ebay stuff unless it's an actual auction. Which I'm not sure exist anymore.

If you're going to have 2.5" exhaust welded up, just do 3". It'll be harder to fit, hopefully your exhaust shop is competent.

Yeah, no need for the vacuum block and the fuel rail won't fit.

When you're swapping the engine, take the pan off drill and tap it for the NPT-AN adapter, and have it cleaned at a machine shop. Mine charged me $15 to have it "jet washed", whatever that means. Turned out great.

You'll have good threads, no nicks in the pickup tube, and a a clean surface for the JB weld to bond to. Good time to do other seals and gaskets that you can't normally get to, like the rear main seal/gasket, oil pump gasket, and oil pan gaskets.

Also, learn to multi-quote.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You can also have someone weld on a 1/2" NPT half coupling rather than tapping, then the jbweld becomes necessary. A skilled welder would be a good idea so it doesnt look like *** like the oil temp sensor bung I added to my pan.

RedCarmel

iTrader: (7)

Some very good advice above.

For the exhaust, if you're taking it to a shop and having it custom made then I would go 3". I went 2.5" because I found an amazing deal on a used FM exhaust that I couldn't pass up and it fits perfectly. Just make sure your shop does mandrel bent when they are making it.

Leach0789

Looks like you're going for a pretty similar setup to my build. I think you already checked out my thread, but its in my signature.

Good luck!