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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 08-09-2009, 01:16 PM   #1
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Default Turbo gurus, need help finishing the build.

I've got everything bolted on and now I'm stuck on the details and little odds and ends for the last month.

Kit is a Greddy 15G
MS was build build by Braineak with MAF elimination, base map for 470cc injectors (which are in)

Bolting everything on wasn't fun but it was the easy part and now it's time to deal with wiring. Unfortunately for me, seeing the mess of wires is like being a housemade coming to a frat house, it makes me feel overwhelmed and I don't know where to start. I'm not a big fan of dealing with electronics too.

Here are the quick basic questions which should be easy to answer.
1. IAC, my charge piping didn't have an access port for it, so I was going to block it off, but I doubt that would work so I'll either need to eliminate it or drill an access hole correct?

2. The kit I bought came with a MAP sensor plug on the cold side of the intercooler but I believe I have to wire in a IAT sensor as well? Where does it go on the engine and where is the vacuum connection on the MS?

3. The MS kit I got looked like it just came with another MAP looking sensor, so I'm wondering does the IAT look the same as MAP or did I never get one with the kit?

4. Turbo vacuum line should connect to the WG vacuum fitting?

5. Does the Innovative LC1 have to connect to the OEM 02 wiring in any way shape or form?

6. Will the car start without me adjusting the timing or is that required prior to even idling?

7. With MS would my BOV have to be recirculated to run proper or can it be atmosphere ventilated?

That is all for now, any help sincerely appreciated.

I've gone this far and now little things are holding me back
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Old 08-09-2009, 01:22 PM   #2
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1. You need a port

2. I used the nipples on the throttle body for all my map sensor needs, The IAT sensor can go anywhere between the intercooler and throttle body

3. You need to plumb a line from the throttle body nipples to the board or else you car will not run.

4. yes. If you have a manual boost controller it would go in between here.

5. nope remove the narrowband and plop in the wideband.

6. Sure will

7. Nope, only if your running a AFM you will need too


Most of us would tell you to search, but some of those questions dont really come up since there common knowlege. Cheers!
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Old 08-09-2009, 01:39 PM   #3
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+1 He is right
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Old 08-09-2009, 08:08 PM   #4
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Thank you for all the help, I've searched and got most answers, but those things were still puzzling me.

A few things I've still got to do and them I'm going to try to crank it.

I'm going to drill the port for the IAC, run the MAP line and block off the EGR.


While on the subject, does the MAP line have to be independent or can that be T'd off Boostguage line?
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Old 08-09-2009, 08:13 PM   #5
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Doesnt matter. I have mine "t"'d off boost gauge and cruise control (which doesnt work)
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:47 AM   #6
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Well everything mechanical looks to be legit, car won't start, time to trouble shoot.

Egr is blocked off
Feed/return lines are done
IAC is tapped and run
IAT is tapped and wires

Possible issues
IAC hose is nearly crashed, going to replace it.
Plugs could be bad, will replace as well.
I'll check voltage on IAT
No gasket maker/silicone on EGR block off.
Megasquirt could have wrong settings on it/ bad or no basemap.

I did try starting it without plugging MS into the laptop yet.

Lots of smoke from exhaust manifold, lots of noise no sucesfull start =(

Btw, should the entire EGR assembly should be removed or will blocking off the port where the line went fine for now?
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:48 AM   #7
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Out of all of those things I would futz with the Megasquirt first. Remember to unplug your ignitors!
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:29 PM   #8
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I'll play the village idiot, but ignitors?
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:32 PM   #9
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Well, igniter, singular. It's a little flat box with 8 or 10 wires going into it on the passengers' side shock tower, right next to the charcoal canister purge valve.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:31 PM   #10
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:21 PM   #11
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the ignitor wasn't made for 94+ models? According to Haynes manual.

Thanks for the link, however everything is good by the looks of it.
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:22 PM   #12
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Use the laptop. It's the only way to know what's going on with the MS. It's silly not to.
--Alex
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:36 PM   #13
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Well tapped and drilled the hole for the IAC, welded the EGR pipe closed (without removing the unit yet) and tried getting the car to run.

Seemed to be having a misfire on two cylinders, not related to plugs. Upon trying to narrow it down to potential coil issue the starter fried and went up in smoke so that put a pause on any further attempts.

However, I have an odd problem.

After the key being in the "on" position for a few minutes, the radiator fan kicked on... here is the interesting part, it kicked off at any input from the pedal, and would turn back on once you would release pedal.

In other words, the gas paddle, TPC, seemed to be an ON/Off switch for the cooling fan?

Also what exactly is the firing order on a 1.8? The two coils should alternate so the plug order can be reversed on a coil unit without any issues correct?
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:20 AM   #14
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Bump
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Old 09-20-2009, 12:44 AM   #15
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:47 PM   #16
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Any body have any guesses as to why the radiator fan is kicking off by the throttle input?
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