turbo hp question
 

I'm looking for someone with similar turbo set up with dyno sheets.

Want to estimate if I'm pushing stock internals too far

2001 vvt bp4w
Turbo garrett .48 AR .62 trim
10psi
550 cc injectors
2.5 downpipe
28x7.5x2.5 fmic
-8 degrees at full boost

try again, but this time with proper stats on your engine, turbo, and setup, not something you'd expect a 5th grader to say about a car.
2001 and bp4w are two different engines
"Turbo" doesn't tell us much, and AR doesn't matter when we don't know what turbo you're talking about
-8 degrees from what? stock timing? because if its an actual -8 degrees you'd be huffing fire out your tailpipe
what exhaust? what afr you running in boost? what....

....nevermind

Take it to a dyno?

Nearest dyno is 5 hours away.
Afr is 11:1 at full boost
Its a stock rb26dett turbo
Its a 2001 car with bp4w engine I'll post a pic of engine code.
-8 degrees at from stock timing at 5000 rpm

Drive 5 hours to have it dyno'd, I did it.
also good luck with the RB turbos, i hear they are failure prone with the ceramic turbine wheels.

What are you tuning with?
Retained VVT?
What fuel?

They only fail if you push more than 14 psi out of them for long periods of time
AEM FIC
93 octane pump gas

Its a gt2860
10 psi
fmic
3" intake
2.5" downpipe
Begi S4 style manifold

Anyone running similar setup?

Wild guess? 195-215hp.

That is based on my Precision 4828 at 10psi on a crappy tune on a BEGI cast iron manifold. Thus-wild ass guess.

-8 degrees? lol wtf.

AEM w/ 2860 on 10psi? I'd say 205whp...give or take 5-10 whp.

There's your answer. It's wrong, but it's an answer.

:facepalm:

The last time I checked, most engines break from overdoing the power on weak parts that cant handle it, and the shitty tuning...not so much because of wear and tear. Nothing to worry about though, you're running bandaids so you'll be alright on tuning.

In his defense, I think he was responding to this:

Ebay S4 style manifold? 120whp because your cracked manifold won't build much boost.

Actually your miss informed my DOC race manifold is schedule 20 stainless steel cost me 600$ and no its not cracked.

This site is bullshit. If you don't have a MS your stupid
If you don't have a absurd flow, begi, or flyin miata manifold you must have egay manifold
Yes I have a stock RB turbo
But for 200$ brand new not bad deal.
Not all of us are rich and not all of us are master mechanics some of us just like to have fun with it not be assholes to people who are giving it a legitimate try.

Have you finished crying?

N00bs show up, give little info and ask a dumb question.

"you made a mean assumption! you're so mean!"

You might get more respect if you didn't type like a raging moron, provide clear information from the get-go, and ask clear answers.

Here's what you did:

Are you retarded or just really that lazy?

I know that feel OP.

It's my time of the month, too.

I wonder how much more time he wasted trying to clarify all his retardation and having us pull the info on his setup out over the course of 19 posts vs making a proper post in the first place?

How about making a legitimate try at typing up a coherent post?

This thread is headed for eggplant

Took him more time to tell us how much his vagina hurt than it would have taken him to just post the necessary info in the first post.

2001 miata
VVT engine
Begins style S4 manifold
GT2860 Garrett turbo off a RB26DETT
waste gate set to 10 psi
AEM FIC
Boomslang harness
Denso 550 cc injectors
43psi at rail
Stock fuel pump
Timing is -1 degree per pound of boost
For total of 8 degrees retarded from stockat full boost.
Not sure what stock timing at 3500 rpms (where I reach full boost) is on vvt engine
2.5" band exhaust gutted cat
2.5" cat back with borla xs muffler
A/F is 11.5:1 at 10psi
Stock internals
Stock head besides ARP head studs
28x7.5x2.5 intercooler
2.5" cold side
2" hot side
Greedy RS BOV
Recirculated to intake behind MAF
MAF retained
VVT retained
No PS
No A/C
4.10 rear end
99 5 speed trans
ACT HD clutch

Anything I missed?

BEGI *

SCH 20? Get that tin foil shit outta here.

U mad, bro?
Youre asking dumbass questions like this is fucking honda-tech and now youre butthurt because you were made fun of.

Math sounds weird.

If your timing is retarded one degree for every psi of boost, you'd think your timing would be -10 degrees at full boost if you're running 10psi.

Other than that, 200hp give 15hp or take 100hp depending on tune sounds like a pretty reasonable answer.

220-230 would be my guess.

That's why I said total of -8 degrees. retarding 10 degrees robs my power at top end.

Thank you that's right where I wanna be

So you're running 8psi?

OK -1 degree timing from stock for every pound of boost until 8 psi then from 8 psi up it stays -8 because car falls on face if I go past -8 degrees from stock.

How do i enter that formula into my Excel spreadsheet?

=[A1]-1

copy and paste down

Right, but how do i tell it to stop at 8? Some </= type shit?

just keep it going
at 360 psi youre back at TDC

Just run 368 psi aka ALLOFIT.

You guys are ruthless.

Would you mind posting your AEM FIC cal file? I'm trying to tune my 2002 Miata with a IHI MSM turbo setup. Thanks!

<edit>

Never mind, didn't read far enough to see you were just fucking with him.

Keith