GL getting forged pistons for $350

 

$350 is low, but by the time you re-ring a new set of OEM pistons you're only about $150 away from a set of forged slugs, including rings. I was going to leave the pistons out of my build, but it just didn't make sense.

 

gtx pistons etc are cheap when you can find em. Didnt mtuned have a rod piston special going for a while?

 

Money, you will need money. I am currently doing the swap from a 1.6 to a 1.8. It is expensive. My 1.6 currently does a little over 200. I wanted more reliable power. The problem is "when is more enough" Where do you stop? You've invested in forged internals that can withstand over 300, so you know you will test it eventually. Bigger injectors, coolant reroute, oil cooler, billet oil pump gear, 99+ head, 6 speed trans, forged rods (might as well do pistons). The point is that you start making upgrades to protect your upgrade.

On the flip side you will be able to sell some of your 1.6 stuff, however I have not begun this process so money is only leaving the wallet.

My swap is scheduled for the week before Christmas (for whoever cares)

 

I couldve sworn I saw something for $350, it might have a GB . Regardless why would you tear in to the engine and replace only the rods . Belfab has good deals and Ive read about people using them and often recomending them

BELFAB RACING PRODUCTS

Like Sav said

Take his word, not mine.

 

thanks guys i was trying to search for info bout transmissions but i kept getting bs like seqential shifting blah blah. But So when you guys built your motors are you using arp studs, aftermarkets crank bearings, ect?

 

There are several threads out there that specifically ask "how do I *build* a motor".

Try a advanced Title Search for threads started by me for the word "mild"... as in mild build.

What you will find is that forged rods and pistons, a good quality rebuild kit, machine-work, crank-work, etc... is between $2500-$3000. This is not a full-out build with ARP stuff, harmonic balancer, head-work, etc... It's just a better than stock rebuild with forged rods/pistons.

You can go as big as you want and spend huge money... but to get something that will hold 300whp on the street and be reliable (of course you need it tuned), then you need $3k and a machine-shop you trust.

 

Isn't Phil putting down 250 with his 1.6? 550's are minimum to consistently see 300.