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Old 10-18-2012, 06:12 PM   #21
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oh ok. i knew corrected was a educated guess as to what you would make at sealevel.

but i figured because if x boost makes 250 at sealevel you are still pushing the engine just as hard even if you are only making 180 at altitude. if that makes any sense.

basically to hit 250 you have to push much harder than what the engine is able to handle to reach the 250. and the boost required and pressures within the cyl could bend/break the rod. since that amount of boost/fuel would be making say 270 at sealevel.

or am i thinking too black and white.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:14 PM   #22
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Too black and white. Power is power.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dange View Post
now I was under the impression we are safe untill 250 wheel TORQUE not hp seeing as tq is what breaks things. meaning i could potentially push 260+whp as long as im only hitting about 230-240tq.
and i know what also breaks things is tq at XX rpm. and seeing as the BW spools so fast and it's hitting ungodly tq at such low RPM like soviet did that is where i have to worry.

So the breaking limit is 250 UNCORRECTED?
my numbers were corrected so. I can have jeremy shoot me the uncorrected numbers. hell its 130 ill go ahead and call FM now and have him at least read it to me.
As mentioned above, uncorrected. Corrected numbers are to help you sleep at night. "Uncorrected" is what you really made. At 6k ft a "corrected" 250whp car would make low 200whp numbers.

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Too black and white. Power is power.
Agreed. Use virtual dyno, it doesn't care what altitude you are and doesn't try to add corrections or anything. Give that a shot, OP.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:07 PM   #24
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just got my email back from FM. so it appears from what i just found out... i have 70hp and 60tq more wiggle room. not 30/20 like i previously thought

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Old 10-18-2012, 08:19 PM   #25
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I love being at sea level.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:23 PM   #26
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I bet that car at sea level might, MIGHT, make 200whp.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:56 PM   #27
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Why don't you run EBC? oh wait, hydra EBC is broken, I forgot.
I also think FM spark and fuel kits are both retarded. I would spend money elsewhere....

Save your pennies for built engine/good turbo and don't overpay for tuning.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:11 PM   #28
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Spool seems late for a turbo that small, too... I made peak torque at 3800rpm i think...
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:32 PM   #29
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Yeah it spools the SAME as a gt3071r in the FM2r kit.
when i sell the stock turbo/manifold/downpipe/exhaust it will make some NA miata guy plenty happy. but I need more.

and I am running a EBC. i have an HKS EVC6 still didn't help the tiny stock ihi hold boost to redline.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:30 AM   #30
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So. I am still kind of unsure. id like the BW efr. but even stock boost levels seem to even uncorrected put be above the 250 limit i know that by 5500 soviet was at 12psi on wastegate pressure. and when he went to 7k he was creeping to 17psi. which im pretty sure would install a new vent hole in the side of my block.

meanwhile the EFR2867 or regular gt3071 will still hit my eventual 400hp goal once the engine is built so I wont have to change turbos. yet with the tial MVR I shouldn't have any issues with creep and hit the boost that i set it to. and not surpass the safety limits

Unless im missing something would you all suggest the Garret?
or even get a churbo and then upgrade to the BW and ramhorn manifold down the line?
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:46 AM   #31
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whoa whoa whoa now
there are 3 wastegates for EFRs - low, mid and high boost level
normally they all ship with mid-boost wastegate. with 6258 I ran a mid-boost and then switched to high-boost wastegate. now I exclusively run the high-boost wastegate.

with the low boost wastegate you will have no issue with boost control. the issue is that its way, way, way too easy to make a fuckton power with EFR. If you can honestly promise yourself to keep boost below certain psi, you should be good. EFR wastegates are really, really good.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:48 AM   #32
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http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
start from page 29

Quote:
First, the wastegate canister is selected. Second, the rod preload is set. There are three canisters offered, simply called “low boost”, “medium boost”, and “high boost”. As you would expect, the “low boost” actuator requires a low pressure to be applied before cracking the wastegate open. It is also sprung quite softly, so as canister applied pressure increases, the amount of rod movement increases quickly. This actuator is meant for vehicles running low boost pressures (less than 10psi) or vehicles running medium boost (10-15psi) that have an electronically-controlled spill valve (e.g BCSV) on the actuator line. The “medium” boost actuator is the default on EFR turbos and is targeted at the user running 12-18psi boost pressure straight off the supply hose or with mild amounts of electronic spill control. The “high” boost actuator is quite stiffly sprung 30 and is reserved for those running 20-30psi boost (or higher, when using spill). The rod preload is the fine-tune adjustment, and as mentioned above it’s easy to count turns and know how much preload (rod extension) is being added.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:19 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post



OOOOOH some reason i thought that you had a low boost
i went to https://www.treadstoneperformance.co...w+Boost+179282
and saw this image and thought you were running a low boost actuator.


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Last edited by Dange; 10-22-2012 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:35 PM   #34
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No, I run a high boost wastegate. Medium boost would probably work too for my 25psi
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