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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 04-14-2009, 01:08 PM   #21
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Go with MS, you won't regret it. You can build one on the cheap too.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:06 PM   #22
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Oh yeah I dig MS hardcore, still low on the bank though. I plan on roughing out the build with what I currently have and after my hotrod sells I'll make friends with solder and my iron. Don't get me wrong I'm with you that stand alone is the ideal solution, what I don't understand is everyone being so harsh towards running what ya got until you get what you need? I'm not saying by any means that my old msd box/rpm control is great, but its a lot better than a static 6 or 8 degrees retard. I'd like to check out your MS wiring a little more next time every one meets up. I remembering you saying it was a pnp and it would help me to see where everything is running to etc. Oh, and I wish the head was a 00, but alas it's a 96. It will flow much better when I'm done with it though, + the diy cam swap etc.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:13 PM   #23
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Yeah my PnP is pretty simple. N3V has a custom built MS and he's local also, ill drag him out to one of the meets they have around here. He also did the exintake cam mod like your wanting to do. Im wanting to try it on my 99-00 head, just gota find the cam.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:31 PM   #24
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Cool to see someone trying something different. Definitely interested in how this all turns out.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:33 PM   #25
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dynojet, lol.
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:42 PM   #26
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nice dampers, lol.
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dynojet, lol.
What the hell is wrong with you?
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:03 PM   #27
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Post the compressor maps here.
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:19 PM   #28
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What a waste.
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:44 PM   #29
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Id like to translate hustler's trollan for you Tim:

"hehehe I trol u."

There ya go

Also, twin turbos are for queers. >:3
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:46 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Wrecking_Crew View Post
rofl, yeah unless you use ej20 IHI ball bearing turbos!!!
I thought the ej20 WRX's had the mitsu td04 turbo.

Supposed USDM 2liter WRX TD04 compressor map attached.
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:46 PM   #31
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I'm interested.
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:51 PM   #32
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What a waste.
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Also, twin turbos are for queers. >:3
So true. But hey maybe this guy likes misery.

I have no idea what trollan is.
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:38 PM   #33
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Default compressor map

Tim, just the man I wanted to see lol, I new I was gonna get flamed when I posted this thread, but hey why not ehh? Any suggestions? "RHF4" EJ20 tt I think 1993?
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:07 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Wrecking_Crew View Post
Tim, just the man I wanted to see lol, I new I was gonna get flamed when I posted this thread, but hey why not ehh? Any suggestions? "RHF4" EJ20 tt I think 1993?
I didn't get flamed for my TT's because I waited to post until after I finished it and it was running well. You get more respect that way because the chances of you getting something that runs well is slim.

I see what turbos you are running now. I looked into the OEM Subaru sequential TT setup from the early 90's as a swap for my '97 outback at one point. They are all over ebay for cheap. I don't know about what turbos they are or if they are an ok size. I do know the subaru sequential parts (choking off most of the flow to one turbo until some point, etc) don't work very reliably, plus you have to find room for the valves & other hardware. In my opinion for a sequential I would run a small turbo early and a large turbo late, like the new deisels.
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:28 PM   #35
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Which is why they went to a single TD05 and then a single TD04 (see map above), which is an excellent match for the 1.6 miata as I have found out.


Blocking off the second turbo should be fairly simple (haha) using an external wastegate BEFORE the second turbo, and some kind of pressure source to trigger it at an RPM setpoint.


The simplest way would be to use manifold pressure as a trigger to open the wastegate.

So the sequence would be:

RPM/Boost/Wastegate condition

1000/0/Closed
1250/1/Closed
1500/5/Closed
2000/10/Open
2250/6/Open <-----Only disadvantage I see from this simple setup, boost will drop as the wastegate opens and the second turbo starts spooling up.
2500/8/Open
3000/10/Open
3500/10/Open


And so on....

In either case this whole clusterfuck would be a hell of a lot easier to achieve with an aftermarket ECU.

Wanna race when you're done, Wrecking_Crew? My "crude" single Subaru setup vs. your sophisticated twin turbo setup?

Last edited by The_Pipefather; 04-15-2009 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Pipefather View Post
Which is why they went to a single TD05 and then a single TD04 (see map above), which is an excellent match for the 1.6 miata as I have found out.
Exactly.

Quote:
Blocking off the second turbo should be fairly simple (haha) using an external wastegate BEFORE the second turbo, and some kind of pressure source to trigger it at an RPM setpoint.


The simplest way would be to use manifold pressure as a trigger to open the wastegate.

So the sequence would be:

RPM/Boost/Wastegate condition

1000/0/Closed
1250/1/Closed
1500/5/Closed
2000/10/Open
2250/6/Open <-----Only disadvantage I see from this simple setup, boost will drop as the wastegate opens and the second turbo starts spooling up.
2500/8/Open
3000/10/Open
3500/10/Open


And so on....

In either case this whole clusterfuck would be a hell of a lot easier to achieve with an aftermarket ECU.
The restriction to turbo #2 flow caused by the EWG before it would make turbo #2 have less power/energy supplied to it (unless maybe if you use one of those big **** 60mm EWG's, add like $600 to teh cost for one of those). I would worry about turbo #1 which is already spooled out flowing turbo #2, causing some sort of imbalance. You'd have to also block off the intake/pressure side of turbo #2 until it spools and makes the same pressure as what turbo #1 is already producing or else I'd think the positive boost pressure would go the wrong way thru turbo #2's compressor, possibly spinning it backwards. Not good, especially if the #2 turbine is underpowered.
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:30 PM   #37
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This should discourage him enough to stop the build effective now.
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:47 PM   #38
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Thanks Tim, I'm going to start with just log man and spooling the turbines together, then move to sequential afterwords. Currently I'm sourcing a few parts from a supra, primarily the LACV and the EGCV, they will be controlled via vacuum actuators. I though about a compound system and have read through an untold amount of the diesel kid forums, I'll probly do that set up in my friends 63 econoline, 300 6 etc.

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Originally Posted by The_Pipefather View Post
This should discourage him enough to stop the build effective now.
lol, I take it you've never buried a crank before... And why would a couple vacuum actuated valves not make me want to toy with a seq setup?

1939 Nash, 4 bolt Boss, Offset ground turned under 4ma high nodge crank, shortened forged rods, forged flat tops, high eccentricity trymetal clevites, aussie 2v quench heads "port matched," machined canted pedestals comp screw in studs "by hand," comp guide plates, comp forged pushrods, harland sharp 1.6 ratio ex, 1.73 in, single groove stainless valves, dual v springs, 530l 280d comp cam, dual quad aussie 2v weind tram "circa 73 very rare" ARP this that and the other, list goes on and on. "8,000 redline 6L 11.7:1 " I need a taller cam but the 530 will hold me over for now. Oh, and then I drive that little miata every once in a while lmao
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:06 PM   #39
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This should be fun to watch.
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:44 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrecking_Crew View Post
Thanks Tim, I'm going to start with just log man and spooling the turbines together, then move to sequential afterwords. Currently I'm sourcing a few parts from a supra, primarily the LACV and the EGCV, they will be controlled via vacuum actuators.
I don't know what a LACV or a EGCV is.

Quote:
lol, I take it you've never buried a crank before...
I don't know what that means either

Quote:
And why would a couple vacuum actuated valves not make me want to toy with a seq setup?
only reason I can think is that controlling them accurately to make it daily driveable may be difficult. Then again, the definition of "driveable" differs from person to person.

Quote:
1939 Nash, 4 bolt Boss, Offset ground turned under 4ma high nodge crank, shortened forged rods, forged flat tops, high eccentricity trymetal clevites, aussie 2v quench heads "port matched," machined canted pedestals comp screw in studs "by hand," comp guide plates, comp forged pushrods, harland sharp 1.6 ratio ex, 1.73 in, single groove stainless valves, dual v springs, 530l 280d comp cam, dual quad aussie 2v weind tram "circa 73 very rare" ARP this that and the other, list goes on and on. "8,000 redline 6L 11.7:1 " I need a taller cam but the 530 will hold me over for now. Oh, and then I drive that little miata every once in a while lmao
This doesn't mean much to this crowd. I only notice you didn't use Jesel so you fail.
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