UofACATS DIY Turbo Kit
 

Well folks it starts so I guess I'll start a thread about it..
Here are the components:


Forced Performance Big T28 turbo (DSM flange)

Megan Racing stainless manifold and 2.5" downpipe

Tuner Toys braided oil feed line and "T" adapter, 48"

JGStools 10AN Silicone oil-drain line, 24"

BEGI AFPR

Starion 14-Row FMIC (OTR, P/S, A/C)

Ebay DIY aluminum 2.5" intercooler piping, silicone couplers, t-bolts. ~27 inches of I/C piping.

Olderguy o2 clamp.

Pierburg fuel pump

Bipes ACU

CAI

Greddy-S BOV (Knockoff)

Fabbed square-to-round MAF adapter, K&N

A ton of random stuff which I'll post in a bit. I kept a list, prices included.

Hmmm, I've been wanting someone to try that turbo, just on a 1.8. Either way, I'll be interested to see how it performs.

Yeah, we'll see. Lucky me, I have a T25 with the exact same flange waiting in case I don't like how the T28 "feels." Also, swapping turbos will be easy enough, everything is exposed.

Me too. Right now it'll be with stock cat-back for smog/registration purposes. Stock 1.6 injectors, stock MAF to get it on the road. I have a LM-1 wideband for tuning, so we'll get to see some limits reached.

Once that's settled I'll add the RX-7 MAF, and 1.8 inj. and, of course a DIY exhaust. Probably a 2.5, but If I get in there and there's room, might as well rock the 3" just for the overkill :naughty:

I'll start posting details about the specific parts.

CAI, filter outside of engine bay.

Note: this is the mock-up. Things don't fit just right, and you can see the stock rubber elbow used, which i'll be replacing with a close radius bend, etc. Enjoy.

Honestly this might not be the smartest idea, *water drain* but if I remove it, I'm drawing cold air from the hole anyway, similar to samnavy's CAI setup (which I can post if that's OK, or he can if it's not visible in the vBGarage) so I might as well "play around" with having a "real" cold air intake.

If I have my filter in the corner of the engine bay, I'll shield it and open it up to the hole in the firewall.

Worth mentioning, this is not my daily driver, so it's a fair weather machine only, so potentially I could leave it. Although, I'd probably want to switch it to regular intake for trips or possibility of rain. Just don't want to get caught out in the rain ya know?..

Lastly, it's a horribly small filter. I've yet to calculate flow potential as per bripab007's info (thanks again Brian) but I could do the unscientific test of 3rd gear pull...remove filter (say short prayer) 3rd gear pull and see the difference.

i want to boneth yor car, sounds sweet as feck, hope fully my car sounds as good later on next year

you had the perfect turbo to run the pipes beside the power steering. awesome intake, can the hood close with the afm?

Right now it's too high, but it's just the mock-up anyway.

I need to flip the MAF like yours. You flipped it correct? Does this alter its operation?

no, but i did notice the position can effect the idle AFR

Who the heck flipped their AFM?

Anyway, before I routed it through the firewall, I had the intake hooked up and test fitted fine. I'm using a custom made square-to-round MAF adapter, and it's taking up the room where the filter would normally reside. I can always remove it, buy an ebay adapter, or just make it fit.

Starion 14-Row FMIC (OTR, P/S, A/C)

Starion front mount. I wanted the shortest piping possible using over-the-radiator configuration, but mostly this just seemed like the simplest routing of the pipes. (pic) This is the only small pic I have, just before oil today, thus the bib.

EDIT: I measured the total intercooler piping length: Right about 27".

I lowered and angled the radiator, and made some reinforcement tabs for good measure. The intercooler is sandwiched between the A/C core and the radiator core. Performance is TBA. I'm in AZ, so I really didn't want to lose the AC.

I made some small aluminum spacers for the AC core.

(Please see post # 24 for pictures) You can also see the whole bay. I need some more black couplers (blue looked so lame), as well as other TLC

looks really good, but why paint the IC couplers? LOL

Could not stand the blue. Now I can't stand the blue painted black. Went from looking lame to looking stupid :D

*In search of flat black couplers* Also, need a hump connector at the TB.

sorry yes I meant I flipped it. no about functionality. ahhh over the top! looking really good.

well i have the ebay square to round maf adapter if you would like to see if you want one just let me know im more than willing to do what i can to help. i also know the owners of a couple shops here in town and in phoenix i can probably get you some black couplers if i call around. that and some cheap dynotime if interested.
im also doing a DIY settup but with a 16g on a 1.6.
i was wondering if i could get a ride sometime, ive ridden in geoffs 300hp ubercharged miata, but i want to feel the different powerband. I think I would enjoy turbo boost better

plus it will probably get me motivated quicker to finish mine :)


btw pm'ed you my phone number and e-mail

should be easy to clean off. See if Corky will sell you flat black couplers I know he uses them on his kits.

:eek5: :bigtu: :bigtu: :bigtu:

I LOVE THAT I/C SET-UP!

Good luck with the rest of the set-up.

i like the filter setup. How are you going to keep water out of it
:( though? I didnt know they made a megan racing for the 1.8 hmm.

Errrrrr....why Not Meeee ! I Want That! :(

Thanks, Braineack. For the most part I'm pleased with how it's looking. So, a no-go on flipping it huh? I think I can get it to work without..

Hey what's up man? Thanks for the offers! I'm going to see if I can make this maf adapter work before I try something else. Where is the dyno? I'm interested in that for sure. I might get some numbers with the stock maf and 1.6 injectors, then again with the rx-7 maf and 1.8s, that would be sweet.

Once this thing is on the road, I'll defintely give you a call. The 16G setup should rock nicely (small, big, evo3??).

Thanks again man, I'll let you know.

Heh, yeah it's debatable at the moment. 1.6!

:bigtu:

Radiator pics
 

Here are the resized pictures for FMIC fitment.


(pic1)
I dropped the radiator the amount you can see.
I moved the AC core with the aluminum spacers. The Starion falls right in!

(pic2)
I made some braces for the radiator support for ease of mind, since the support seemed compromised by the lowering. (not much metal left there)

Note: in the pic, the support is on the wrong side for fitment testing. It's on the other side now, distributing the load between the two holes

EDIT: (pic3) Check the radiator repositioning.

How about just taking the AFM off completely? -MAP- :bigtu:

well its going to be a 16g from an 03 evo 8 (my friend is upgrading turbos)

it is looking great, the dyno is at ia performance, its an awd mustang chassis dyno and the guys there do great work tune with the wideband whatever you need the other thing is the company that helps me out is vivid racing and they can probably get you your couplers

now why did you pick the starion intercooler i was looking at a 26x7x2.5 with a 19in wide core would that not fit? or would you suggest something else? i kinda played with the idea of a near free evo intercooler or a starion or saab 900 but for the slight price increase i though the new one may look better in the mouth being its almost the right size

damnit no again my bad. yes i'm flipped. yes it works. no it doesnt matter. i noticed it does change the tension a little bit.

Sweet! I hear nothing but good from IA. I'd prefer mustang numbers even if they don't let you brag quite as much.

Starion I picked because lots of people run it, I heard the 14-row wasn't horrible and I got it for 55 shipped (main reason). I'm sure it's not what we would all call efficient, but it's not garbage either. We'll just have to see what it can do.

The Evo I/C is just too freaking huge. It can be done however, one member here has it installed. I think there are better choices unless you're handy with a welder. There are some good FMIC setups here if you check around. I'd pick up a new one if I were to start over, and I'll replace it eventually.

I'll probably sell it for 55 too :bigtu:

The best advice I have is to start with the manifold / downpipe, then build accordingly.

Damnit! make up your mind! :rofl:

Ha. Well hot damn, that helps me out.

Thanks for all your help :bowdown: :bowdown:

That sucka's gettin flipped (soon as the LM-1 is hooked to see any changes)

id like to stop by and see in person how the ic is mounted, i was looking under my hood today and i know i have room for the i/c but have no idea how im going to route my pipes esp with two side outlets,course i didnt stay around too long because i started my car to back it out some and the mosquitos decided to attack... im thinking im going to need quite a few bends whereas the starion has both outlets facing up and at the top. i already have the megan racing manifold picked out and having my friend ad soem braces so it wont crack,

well i decided i love boost, driving around a modded sti all last night... the owner drove my car and said he loves it and i quote "as soon as you get turboed this thing is going to be a tracks wet dream"

IA is great i can be found there bs'ing with them on a weekly basis, well it also helps that i know all the employees its probably around 50 for a good baseline 3 pull with wideband im not sure ill call up gabe and find out for ya

Forced Performance Big T28 turbo (DSM flange)

This is the turbo I'm trying first. I also have a T25 on the shelf if I want to switch. For info on the turbo, check it out at Forced Performance:

http://linux.forcedperformance.net/m...Code=DSM-Turbo

It flows around 36 lbs/min if I'm not mistaken, not that i'll be close to half that. This turbo takes a stock dsm turbo and modifys it to accept larger turbine and compresser wheels. I do have side by side pictures next to a stock dsm turbo, which I can post here if I can find them somewhere. It's ported to 7cm by FP.

Another turbo pic in vBGarage.

EDIT: added some pics of the turbo placement. I clocked both the center section as well as the compresser housing.

Megan Racing stainless manifold and 2.5" downpipe

Ah, the Megan pieces. Here we go. I'll post with regard to reliability as soon as I have something to say.

First, the downpipe looks half decent, not good, not great, but decent. The o2 bung is poorly placed, but it works and fits ok. They angled the flange to match up with the stock exhausts, but the downpipe is too short anyway and I cut the angle off. I'm sure the wastegate re-introduce is disrupting flow somewhat. It looks to be designed with space and simplicity in mind rather than flow.

Next, the manifold. What can I say, I'm not sure how long it will last. There is plenty of hearsey and a few have had theirs crack. I'm bracing mine in a way yet to be determined. Open to suggestions. If you see a cool brace idea out there, be sure to send it my way. :bigtu:

The turbo flange was a little irregular, but I had to port it to match my turbo anyway, so it was a non-issue. The runners are a little too thin IMO. The gaskets are a joke, they are there so this can be a "kit," and little else. You can see here the placement of the turbo on the outside corner of the manifold, which only adds to the stress it sees.

Tuner Toys braided oil feed line and adapter

I have no factory oil feed port, so I had to buy this kit. FYI, the line is 48" and it's a good 6" too long.

The braided drain is a bad joke. It's too short and worthless. Although it must be said that this kit is non-Miata specific, I still think the drain sucks.

how long is it? you need at least 18" You could do something like Tom (BrgRacer) did and use a 1/2" threaded pipe in the turbo bung. Just cut it to length and clamp the steel line to that.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...6&d=1158612004

Thats a damn-fine idea. I think the hose is 18", but I can't remember where I threw it.

Mine, I have this: "Basic Turbo Drain Line Kit" 10AN Silcone oil hose. 24" length t25/t28.

Found here: http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

It's a nice piece, very thick walled. I ended up cutting off about 4" to fit.

Did you call Corky about couplers yet? He has the prices on the web:

http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_hose.html

hmmm... zip ties holding on heat shield cloth?

Guilty as charged! :hs: The drain hose is now far enough away from the manifold that it doesn't get brittle anymore, but I wrapped it with heat shield and didn't have any stainless steel zip ties around so just went with the plastic ones for now. :ugh2: Not pretty but it works. I'll get around to putting stainless zip ties on one day.

I thought you were going to reveal some kind of speed secret to keep plastic from metling. ;) Is there really such thing as stainless zip ties?

How come I see miata people place there bov on the hot side of there intercooler piping? Everything I have ever read, learned, or see the bov is ALWAYS on the cold side?

Not yet. Stupid "responsibility" gets in the way of the fun stuff.

Thanks for the link.

Metal zip ties do exist.

I used high-tech method of wraping the hoses with plain 'ol wire. You could also just use a worm type hose clamp, they're cheap enough.

This is interesting, and i'm aware of the issue. Everything I've read argues back and forth, with both sides claiming success. Really, the issue for me is i'm using a thick, cast aluminum BOV adapter that I didn't want to drill into to attach the idle air port hose. I drilled an expendable piece of aluminum piping instead.

My setup allows me to switch the bov to the other side if necessary with a 6" piece of thin-wall steel pipe, a bov flange, and 30 seconds of welding. With this, I could rotate the bov 90* and it's a straight shot back to the intake pipe.

Some revelant info from TurboByGarrett:

"The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped)."

Do you think the turbo sees any difference?

See here: http://www.buycableties.com/catalog/?cid=14

I used to have some but used all of them. They are pricey, but good for heat prone areas or if you want the bling.

Makes sense to put it as close to the TB as possible as you are venting the pressurized air as the TB closes, but I don't think it makes all that much of a difference as the whole purpose of a bov is to keep the pressurized air from hitting a closed throttle plate and stalling out the compressor. If you open up a vent (bov) to air or the intake tract, essentially, you are providing a path for that pressurized air to take and it will take the path of least resistance.

Theoretically, I guess the further from the TB the bov is, the longer the pressure wave has to travel after reflecting off the throttle plate to get out, but I can't imagine it making a difference at reasonable boost levels. YMMV.

Yeow- that's pricey. I still have some stainless steel lashing wire (telco grade) that's like safety wire... and it's free. That's what I've used up to this point. But I can definitely see some good use for those ss zip ties.

Volvo used to have the BOV built into the comp housing. SAAB 900's had the BOV on both ends depending upon yr...They all seemed to work fine...

/\ That's what i'm talking about. Both sides seem definitive, then along comes an example that legitimately contradicts it. I think the most logical viewpoint is from brgracer:

"the further from the TB the bov is, the longer the pressure wave has to travel after reflecting off the throttle plate to get out"

This is what I tend to agree with, as the wave has to pass through the I/C. Although, wont the I/C slow/soften or at least disrupt the "shockwave" of air?

Either way, with a BOV somewhere in the system, I can't see the turbo being adversely affected.

This is the right answer for me. I guess once you hit 30 lbs, you can just run two :)

LOL!

Are you recirulating it? If so you can argue the double-pass through the intercooler. ;)

it looks as though your BOV could just be moved over and swapped with the pipe at the tb- no?

That does seem plausible.

Both my turbo Miata and my turbo OTM (Jetta 2.0T FSI) use bypass valve assemblies built into the compressor housing, FWIW.

See how the radiator hose is right in the way?

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...6&d=1158976562

(TB side here) With the BOV mounted so it points straight down on the left side, I could put a nice, easy 90* bend under the radiator hose, then it's a nice straight shot across and back into the intake pipe.

Also, this is the pipe at the t/b, which I would have to duplicate on the cast aluminum, greddy bov flanged pipe. Not that I won't do it if necessary, but drilling and tapping was easy on the thin aluminum pipe, plus if I screwed it up no biggie. Not so with the cast piece. Guess I should quit being a little b:eek: tch and just do it already? :bigtu:

-t/b side:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...3&d=1159467025

-hose attach:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...4&d=1159467182

-bov flange:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...5&d=1159467214

leave it, it doesn't really matter. You have BOV at least.

I had that turbo on my old 95 GSX. Great turbo. I'd love a ride once you get it all done. I'll probably be putting a FM kit on in the next year or so. Im not liking a lot of the stuff they are doing though, so I might just get their exhaust manifold and turbo.

Whats up? John right? Heck yes, free rides for everyone when it's ready. I have a growing list of people to contact :rofl: but I think it's great.

As for the T28, as long as it's rocking by 4K i'm good. FP sure knows how to make em.

I dig what BEGI is doing these days. (right behind the self torturous yet somehow rewarding way of the DIY kit.)

Have a good one dude. I have your contact info, i'll let you know.

Noah.

Today I hooked up a wastegate "spring" (a la someone here I forget who) I'm stalling on pulling and tapping the compressor housing to attach the wastegate actuator, and I managed to find this spring laying around. My actuator rod also has to be cut and re-welded at a different angle. The bracket holding the spring is the MAF bracket, so this is free until I do something about it. It feels a lot easier to extend than does my 8lb wastegate, so it might give me half that.

I was going to hook up my boost gauge from another car, but I forgot it's also a turbo timer, which has a vehicle-specific harness, which means more trouble than it's worth. I'll just buy a gauge. Oh well, wanted to see vacuum at idle as well.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...0&d=1159572634